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Old 08-28-2012, 03:26 AM   #11 
Schwielala
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Okay, I think I will do a water change tomorrow, I guess I'll go with the 50% suggestion as opposed to the 35% just to be safe.

My mom remembered that we DO have a fish store nearby, so we went and I got thermometers. Both tanks have been around 73-74 degrees.

The guy at the store had us get PH tests with the Ph up/down bottles, and said that I shouldn't bother with ammonia tests because there's nothing I can do to change ammonia...I just put in my "guinea pig" fish and let the ammonia do it's thing apparently.... I tried to mention water changes to adjust it, like I've been reading here and elsewhere, but he kinda acted like I was dumb. Then we went to Walmart to see if they had any cheaper stuff and ended up getting an ammonia test there instead.

I've read that changing the PH manually with the bottles can backfire anyway...should I return it? If so, should I just get the test without the bottles to change it?

I'm also going to order recommended heaters and filters online because there was a very limited selection at both stores.

Last edited by Schwielala; 08-28-2012 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:22 AM   #12 
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(Edit button went MIA so double post)

I'm also still nervous about my well water having heavy metals in it. Since the tank with well water hasn't killed anyone in the past two days, does that mean it's safe, or would it take longer for it to affect the fish? Don't want to do the water change and have well water in both tanks only to find out it's poisoning them :(
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:27 AM   #13 
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I think you only have 10 minutes or until someone replies to edit. At any rate, I don't have any good advice about the water parameters, but I have read stuff here on the boards and elsewhere indicating that messing with the PH of your water is generally a losing proposition, so unless yours is WAY off, it would probably be best to leave it alone.

You change water cause the fish put off ammonia as waste. The bigger the tank, the slower it builds up, so that's where that test kit could come in handy. (Says the person who has had fish for 6 months and just got a test kit last week....)

If you do put a filter in, watch the parameters carefully, cause if the tank starts to establish a cycle, you will see spikes in ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites as the various beneficial bacteria reach "critical mass" so to speak.

74 is a bit low for them to be really comfy, but its tolerable. 78-80 seems to be where mine become noticably more active, so thats where most of my tanks sit temperature wise.

Glad they are all still chugging along. Continued good luck
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:49 AM   #14 
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Don't take ANY advice from pet store people! Ever!

Can't do anything to change the ammonia level?!?
Ohhh the joys of uneducated pet store employees...

Ammonia is invisible & toxic, created by fish waste and food. You can lower the ammonia level by doing water changes.

As for heater- I have via aqua heaters, they are adjustable & have thermostats, these would be Great for both your tanks. They're super cheap too.

http://www.amazon.com/ViaAqua-50-Wat.../dp/B005440HLO

Don't use that ph up or down stuff. It does more harm than good,

I would suggest you get filters do you can cycle these tanks, without cycling you will need to do 100% water changes which will really suck with 10 gallon tanks.
If you decide not to cycle- on each tank do 2 water changes per week. 1 50% water change and 1 100% change.
If you cycle the tank or are cycling it, NEVER do 100% water changes, this will remove the beneficial bacteria.

Go here to read about fish in cycling: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771

The heaters are more urgent for them than filters. You want the water 78-82 degrees, I keep my 10 gal tank at 80.

You can't cycle without a filter (;
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:30 PM   #15 
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To keep the PH down, you may want to buy some Indian Almond Leaves. They have a lot of properties that keep bettas healthy and happy. You can buy grade C leaves online (the grading of leaves is related only to appearance, not their quality). They do stain the water though so be prepared for that.
Well water isn't necessarily bad for bettas, it's only a problem if it contains high levels of toxins. I admit I don't know much about heavy metals in betta water but if they are doing ok so far they're likely fine with it.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:35 PM   #16 
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You guys are awesome and are helping me sooooo much!

I had something strange happen with the water I was aging. It's in two separate jugs each exactly the same from the tap (well water), and I added the same amount of conditioner to each. One is still clear but the other somehow turned murky brown-ish. It's got me baffled, and now I guess I don't get to do the water change today for one tank. :\

I'm not sure how I'm going to do a full water change either since I don't have enough jugs/buckets to age a full tank's amount of water in one day. :(

I'm also moving back into my apartment for school next week, so I think I will get filters and attempt to start cycling when I get there. Since I'll have to do fish in cycling, my understanding is that if I monitor ammonia (at least) I can do partial changes during a spike, and be able to keep my fish alive through it?

Update on fishies:

Lazy red has become more active again! He also went for his food right away, although he was picky and spat it out. I don't see it anywhere now, so he may have finally eaten it.

Swim bladder red is still floating. Should I be going for the frozen pea approach?
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:47 PM   #17 
teeneythebetta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwielala View Post
You guys are awesome and are helping me sooooo much!

I had something strange happen with the water I was aging. It's in two separate jugs each exactly the same from the tap (well water), and I added the same amount of conditioner to each. One is still clear but the other somehow turned murky brown-ish. It's got me baffled, and now I guess I don't get to do the water change today for one tank. :\

I'm not sure how I'm going to do a full water change either since I don't have enough jugs/buckets to age a full tank's amount of water in one day. :(

I'm also moving back into my apartment for school next week, so I think I will get filters and attempt to start cycling when I get there. Since I'll have to do fish in cycling, my understanding is that if I monitor ammonia (at least) I can do partial changes during a spike, and be able to keep my fish alive through it?

Update on fishies:

Lazy red has become more active again! He also went for his food right away, although he was picky and spat it out. I don't see it anywhere now, so he may have finally eaten it.

Swim bladder red is still floating. Should I be going for the frozen pea approach?
You don't have to let the water age; the only time I reccomend aging the water is with baby bettas.

No, don't use pea. Pea is very bad for them. Try getting frozen daphnia, it works as a natural laxative. Petco or petsmart should have some in the freezer by the fish section.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:50 PM   #18 
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Oh, I thought I had to age it because of the bubbles that form when the tap water gets to room temperature?

And I'll try the daphnia then, I have heard mixed things about the peas.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #19 
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Originally Posted by Schwielala View Post
Oh, I thought I had to age it because of the bubbles that form when the tap water gets to room temperature?

And I'll try the daphnia then, I have heard mixed things about the peas.
I've neer had a problem with bubbles...
But even if you do it won't really matter- it won't hurt your fish :)
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #20 
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I hope you're right, because that would make water changing so much easier! What I kept finding was that the bubbles could form inside of the fish and cause gas bubble disease? Here are some sources where I found this:

http://www.ultimatebettas.com/index.php?showtopic=18075

"It is also a good idea to age your water at least 24 hours. This allows dissolved nitrogen to outgas. When you add water from the tap directly to an aquarium, you will notice tiny air bubbles forming on everything in the tank. This is a result of the water becoming supersaturated with nitrogen because of water warming to room temperature after being cold in the pipes, and being pressurized. These bubbles could potentially form inside your betta, resulting in gas bubble disease."

http://bettalatethannever.jimdo.com/...ubble-disease/

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