Originally Posted by sandrac8388
My first betta still has a clamped tail. Temperature is at 79 F and I do water changes once a week on his 10 gal (100%). I will be getting the API test kit soon (ordering from amazon because it is a lot cheaper) so i hope to cylce it soon. They get fed NLS and few freeze dried worms here and there. I have a few questions...
1. How do i get his tail to open up? He is doing bubble nest for the first time ever so i assume he is happy..?? and I figured by now (one week has passed) his tail would open up. Maybe it takes longer?
2. Should I get a filter? i know it has to be a low powered one, so does anyone have any recommendations?
3. Should I turn their light off before bedtime? I sometimes do and adjust their water temp because the lighting adds heat.
4. Can I add the water conditioner while the bettas are in their tank? I haven't done so but was wondering because the instructions aren't very clear. ( i use prime)
5. How can I keep the tank clean in between water changes? i think thats why i want to get a filter.
if anyone can answer any questions that would be awesome! I still have to learn how to cycle but that is entirely another post at a later time lol
Peace. Love. Bettas!!!
It may take awhile for his tail to un-clamp. Clamping is often caused by too cold of water, which he was subjected to at the pet store and probably wherever he came from before the store. How long it will take, I cannot say, but it sounds like youre doing your best and he will come along eventually
A filter is highly reccomended in a 10 gallon tank. With a filter, you can cycle your tank, and when cycling and with a cycled tank, you never need to do 100% water changes. So it will make it much easier for you. Sponge filters are highly reccomended by many people, but I couldnt tell you a brand since ive never used one myself. If a filter is too strong, you can baffle the outtake shown here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139
and you may want to block the intake with pantyhose or aquarium sponge.
Your tank light should be on during the day time, and off at night. Fish dont sleep, but they do go into a rest mode and get stressed if the light is left on too long, meaning they are unable to rest. Theres really no minimum time the light needs to be on as long as the room the tank is in is fairly well lit. But maximum of 12 hours of the tank light being on. Keep in mind that the longer the tank light is on, the more likely algae will grow. Algae is not bad for the fish at all, it is just unslightly to humans.
Water conditioner should be added to your water BEFORE putting the fish in. Putting the fish in first will subject them to chlorine and metals found in tap water, so adding conditioner first will prevent them from coming into contact with those harmful things. Prime can be used 2 drops per gallon.
If you DONT get a filter (or get a filter but dont want to cycle it) weekly water changes are required, and 100% water changes. If you get a filter and cycle your tank, you never do 100% water changes, or this will upset the cycle. While cycling your tank, you will need to monitior your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels and do water changes based on your results. But, once your tank is cycled, a 25-50% once weekly water change will work. You can get a gravel siphon (I used this one in my 10 gallon tank- http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Cultu...eaner/13424303
to clean your gravel easily) When cycling and with a cycled tank- you should never ever replace the filter cartridge.
The filter cartridge is the home to majority of the beneficial bacteria (BB) which are what keep your tank cycled. The only time the cartridge would need replaced is if it is falling apart- but that would require you to recycle the tank. I highly reccomend the API master liquid test kit. Learn more about fish in cycling here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771
Be sure not to feed freeze dried bloodworms more than twice a week, since they are treats