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Old 09-29-2012, 01:23 PM   #1 
Vashnic
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New owner questions

Hi! I recently impulse purchased () a betta to keep me company in the dorms and had some questions:

Would sticking more live plants (currently 2) help to clean up the tank (2.5 gallon w/filter), or would I need so many that they are only for decorative purposes? Have planned on 2 x 50% changes a week or so.

Also, I have had fishy for 3 days, and noticed some rust-colored flecks/scales (see images) around his gill area that he's had since the store--possibly velvet or some other skin condition?? His fins did seem a bit droopy/scrawny in comparison to some of the other bettas at the store (he looks like a slightly large guppy) Otherwise, he is very active/begging, and he has 'fluffed up' since day 1. Temp is 79-80 deg. Would it be worthwhile to add some salt/treatment to his water?

Sorry for all the questions!

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Old 09-29-2012, 04:13 PM   #2 
ChoclateBetta
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Bettas need hiding spots that is why plants are good. I did not read any mention of you having a heater. What are you feeding him. How many water changes are you doing weekly I would reccomend 2-3 50 percent water changes weekly. When you treat a fish for bing sick it should be in a different tank because the good bacteria die in treatment too.

Last edited by ChoclateBetta; 09-29-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #3 
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Here is a great link to tell exactly how many water changes you will need to do.http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758 The live plants won't make much of a difference unless it is heavily planted..adding them is always a plus though. I can't tell if the gold coloring is part of his natural color or something else. Hopefully someone else can answer that part for you. Until then hold back on the live plants because the salt can kill them. For now, read up on the water changes, and keep the water a good stable temp. Omega One Betta buffet is a great pellet at your local Petsmart, feel 2-3 pellets twice a day. Give him a few days to get used to his new environment also...once he is relaxed he will unclamp his fins a bit..he may not even want food until then, and that's okay. Try not to use flakes, they will dirty your tank really fast...of course, use what you have for now.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:59 PM   #4 
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Smaller tanks are harder to keep lots of plants in because the water changes tend to dislodge the plants from the sand. If you're interested in a planted tank upgrading to a 5 gallon would be great.

I think your fish may have velvet too. Here is the Diseases and Emergencies description of velvet:
Quote:
Velvet
•Symptoms: Can be found by shining a flashlight on your betta. If it looks like it is covered in fine gold of rust colored dust then it has velvet. Clamped Fins, no appetite, darting/rubbing, loss of color, lethargic
•Treatment: It is very contagious so you should treat the entire tank. Treat as you would treat Ick. PP is also my favorite for treating Velvet.
Here is the recommended treatment (the same as for Ich):

Quote:
Treatment: You can treat Ick either conservatively or with medication. Ick is a parasite. Because ick is contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it. Ick is temperature sensitive: Leave your betta in the community tank and raise temperature to 85 F. Then you can choose to treat with salt or medication. Conservative: Add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Perform daily 100% water changes to remove fallen parasites before they can reproduce. Replace the water with the right amount of salt. Do not continue this treatment for more than 14 days. If it fails or you do not want to use salt, treat with Jungle’s Parasite Clear, API Super Ick Cure, or Kordon Rid Ich Plus. If your betta lives in a jar/bowl, then it can be difficult to heat the water. There are heaters for smaller containers, but you can also float the quarantine container in a larger heated tank during treatment. Do a full water change every day and add an appropriate amount of medication to the water.
•Alternative Treatment: Personally, I have not found Ick medications very effective. I prefer to use PP to treat all external parasites. In the past, I have used 3 or 4 different ick medications unsuccessfully, and every time I resort to PP which works like a charm. Do lots of research before using PP as it is a more dangerous chemical than most.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:34 PM   #5 
Vashnic
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Thanks for the help guys!

Yes, I have a small 25W heater that's been keeping my temp constant. He gets two 50% water changes a week with some spot gunk removal in-between. The substrate is a couple handfuls of smooth river rocks with a pumpkin mug and Anubias plant for cover.

I bought a small tub of Aqueon Betta Food (pellets) and have been giving him 1-2 pellets 3x a day (basically he gets a meal when I get one--so cute when begging! XD).

It looks like the velvet has a free-floating stage--If I move fishy to small container to treat and do 100% water change in tank, how soon should the tank/filter/substrate be 'safe' for him to return to without getting re-infected?
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:47 PM   #6 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashnic View Post
Thanks for the help guys!

Yes, I have a small 25W heater that's been keeping my temp constant. He gets two 50% water changes a week with some spot gunk removal in-between. The substrate is a couple handfuls of smooth river rocks with a pumpkin mug and Anubias plant for cover.

I bought a small tub of Aqueon Betta Food (pellets) and have been giving him 1-2 pellets 3x a day (basically he gets a meal when I get one--so cute when begging! XD).

It looks like the velvet has a free-floating stage--If I move fishy to small container to treat and do 100% water change in tank, how soon should the tank/filter/substrate be 'safe' for him to return to without getting re-infected?
Your heater is perfect. The water changes sound good too, but I would probably add a 100% once a month. With my 2.5g I drain the water and place all the river rocks and decor in the bucket with the old water, take the tank to my bathroom and use the handheld shower to just rinse it with hot water. I'm not sure about treating the tank and substrate with a disease though...sorry, I'm not much help there. I would think you can treat him right in the tank, but I may be mistaken.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:17 PM   #7 
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Ok, so I bought a carton of aquarium salt and added 1tsp to his tank, along with extra Stress coat drops.

One thing I noticed is that he has been wriggling around in the rock bed floor pretty often, which could account for missing scales/redness around gill and head area--not sure if he is looking for leftover bits of food, is itchy, or needs an extra place to hide.

Going out tomorrow to get small rounded gravel to prevent him from digging so much and extra plants for cover, but would medicating for external parasites be safe/healthy if he doesn't have them? Keep with salt treatment and wait and see? ?_?
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:20 PM   #8 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashnic View Post
Thanks for the help guys!

Yes, I have a small 25W heater that's been keeping my temp constant. He gets two 50% water changes a week with some spot gunk removal in-between. The substrate is a couple handfuls of smooth river rocks with a pumpkin mug and Anubias plant for cover.

I bought a small tub of Aqueon Betta Food (pellets) and have been giving him 1-2 pellets 3x a day (basically he gets a meal when I get one--so cute when begging! XD).

It looks like the velvet has a free-floating stage--If I move fishy to small container to treat and do 100% water change in tank, how soon should the tank/filter/substrate be 'safe' for him to return to without getting re-infected?
unless he is rubbing himself violently against objects and dartig, hedoes not have velvet. velvet is highly contagious and kills quickly...
the shininess on his gills is most likely natural coloring
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:23 PM   #9 
Bettanewbie60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashnic View Post
Ok, so I bought a carton of aquarium salt and added 1tsp to his tank, along with extra Stress coat drops.

One thing I noticed is that he has been wriggling around in the rock bed floor pretty often, which could account for missing scales/redness around gill and head area--not sure if he is looking for leftover bits of food, is itchy, or needs an extra place to hide.

Going out tomorrow to get small rounded gravel to prevent him from digging so much and extra plants for cover, but would medicating for external parasites be safe/healthy if he doesn't have them? Keep with salt treatment and wait and see? ?_?
You should not add the AQ salt right to the tank..you need to dissolve it first. 1-2 tsp per gallon..if you add it right to the tank without dissolving first it may burn him. Keep up with the salt treatments, with 100% water changes, but don't do the treatment for too long, I think 10 days, or it may damage his internal organs. Stress coat may help too, but I would just stick to basic treatments first.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:29 AM   #10 
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I disagree about velvet, doesn't velvet usualyl cover the whole body in golden coloured specks? This just looks like a normal scale. If he's behaving normally i wouldn't worry about it, but it's always good to have stuff on hand just in case.

He's really cute and it sounds like you're doing well so far!
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