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Old 11-04-2012, 09:55 AM   #51 
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With UGF it is important to vacuum really good at least weekly to keep the plates free of debris so they function properly.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:11 PM   #52 
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@Lisa1010 No crazy questions, I'm learning from them too.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:16 PM   #53 
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Regarding water quality, I just got proper testing kits and everything but ph is good. My tap water is just bad. My old bettas (got them in May of this year) get 50-75% water change each week and I use Prime. Shall I change them over to spring bottled water which is closer to neutral but not exactly neutral, or a combo of the waters? My new fish got a cycled tank with Prime'd spring water.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:50 PM   #54 
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Unless the fish are having problems with your source water or you have extreme pH issues....It is best to use your tap water along with a dechlorinator.

Bottled water is not all created equal and sometimes it is just filtered tap water that still contains additives that are not healthy for fish, as well as the filtering process that can remove the minerals that are important for long term health. Plus, it can get expensive using bottled water....

Most Betta will adapt to the source water pH without issues IME....

What is your pH and KH/GH of your source water-with and without additives and the 24h degas.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:45 PM   #55 
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Thanks so much for this post! I have been close to this but because I changed from a small .5 gal tank to a 3 gal tank I wasn't sure how often to change water and how much now.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:03 PM   #56 
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pH: 6.5 (test strip) treated water, 7.6 treated and untreated (API tube kits).

KH: 120 with test strip on treated water

GH: 60 with test strip on treated water

I don't know what "24h degas" is?

Can't find the color chart to retest tap water with test strips.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:38 PM   #57 
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The 24h degas for the pH-you pour a clean glass of source water-do a pH test-then let that glass of water sit for 24h and re-test the pH. Once the water degases-it will give you a more accurate pH reading.

The test strips are great for a quick check, however, when you need to make changes to the pH/KH/GH it is better to use the liquid reagent test products.

With that said, it is better to allow the Betta to adapt to your source water. If your Betta is having problems-then you would need to adjust the water.

Are these numbers for the bottled water or your tap water.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:41 PM   #58 
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Ahhh, that's for that tidbit about degassing. Should this airing out happen every water change?

The numbers I posted were for tap water that was treated as marked. I did a ph test on treated and in-treated water. When I say treated it means with Prime.

Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:25 AM   #59 
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No, you don't need to degas the water with every water change-its a slight change that is normal-fish tolerate gradual changes.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:42 AM   #60 
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I am new to having an aquarium and have water change questions.

I have a Fluval Spec V - five gallons. I added a fish a week ago today, a male betta.

1) I drew water a few days ago to do my water change with, it is 68 degrees. I am keeping the tank at 80. When I do water change, should I be heating the new water in any way? Won't a change of temperature stress my betta? I've been doing water changes while cycling and all the weeks the plants were in there without fish and never thought about the temperature I was adding to the tank. Now, with a Betta in there...?

2) The tank has a lot of plants in it. A local fish club member gave me starts of 15 different types of plants several weeks ago. I only have the one Betta in the tank. I have not seen any snails that would have come with the plants. Also, I feed pellets one by one - blood worms too... and the fish has eaten every bite as I give it to him - none fell to the bottom. With one Betta and lots of plants - will there be enough food for the beneficial bacteria to survive to allow the tank to be cycled? Am I correct in thinking that water changes won't affect the cycle, but will drop nitrate?

3) The tank numbers have been stable since I put the Betta in last Friday, and stopped adding small amounts of ammonia a couple days before that. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. My well water tests .25 ammonia out of the tap.
So, for the last week -
ammonia is between 0 and .25 - it is just slightly colored
nitrite is 0
nitrate is 10
The plants are growing and rooting, and the Betta seems really happy, is active, eating well.
Should I do a 50% change once a week -- or more or less often? I was not sure given all the plants, and only one fish in 5 gal.

Thanks so much!

Last edited by daylily; 11-23-2012 at 08:45 AM. Reason: clarity
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