A 10w or 7,5w heater could work,
Originally Posted by LiLBit1188
It's only a one gallon fish bowl. No filter or anything. And, the water is too cold... I don't remember where I read it.. but it said 69 degrees. :/ ... Now I'm feeling like a fish killer. I signed up on here so hopefully I can get him back to normal. :) .. n my SIS doesn't understand.. "we can jus buy a new one" .. I'm sorry but that's not an option for me... I posted two pictures. That's the best I could get since he just sits at the bottom. I wash his bowl weekly and put water conditioner in it. And the betta fix.... Which isn't helping. That's basically all I do for him. Besides feeding him
that is what I used for a 2 gallon bowl, there are some that autoregulate, keeping the water 4 degrees over ambient temp, and turns off when the water gets too hot. Try your nearest pet store or the internet (if you can order one)
, make sure it fits in your bowl of course. Or upgrade to a 2 or more gallon tank/bowl (it makes things easier trust me.)
The bigger the better :D, but that depends on what you can afford or fits in your house, but 2 gallons is the perfect min.
Using a light is not recommnded to heat your bowl, betta's need night and day schedules with light or they will get stressed, at night the bowl will get overly cold and during the day it would get too hot. It will do more harm than good.
, if he looks pregnant (under the gills is his belly) stop feeding him for a day or two, (don't worry betta's can survive even longer without food) so he can clear out his waste, then feed him 1 a day, if using flakes feed him about 2-3 flakes, unless they are big then feed 2 big flakes and after 2 min, remove uneaten food (as a previous bowl owner I recommend this since you don't have a filter and it helps keeping your water cleaner for longer)
If it's not the tummy, it could be bloatness from overfeeding, which affects the swimming bladder, making it hard for the fish to swim. It has a different treatment. However I recommend doing what I said above about the feeding as overfeeding and bladder issues go hand in hand.
Treating Fin rot
; before resorting to medicine which are easy to overdose and hardy on the fish sometimes, resort to the most natural way of healing.
Nothing heals fin rot better than CLEAN WATER.
Since the bowl is small, the waste accumulates faster unlike bigger tanks, which is the reason for which they are more recommended because they are easier to put filters and heaters in (tanks due to their non curved walls.) Do 50% water changes after 2-3 days (mid week) and then 100% water changes a week (weekends for example) prepare a bottle with conditioned water aside so it can remain ambient temperature as brusque temperatures can shock the fish. Adjust the fish to the bowl temp by letting the fish (in a cup or recipient float in the bowl)
Adding Aquarium salt (IN SMALL DOSAGES they are freshwater fish after all) can help receed fin rot and prevent fungus. Which you can do while you keep the water clean.
Advanced fin rot would mean using medicine
like Melafix and bactopur, anything that can fight fin rot or bacteria as they are the cause for it apart from poor water conditions. If fungus appears, you may have to use a different medicine for that too, try treating fungus first then fin rot, limit yourself to using 1 treatment at the time and NEVER mix.
I hope this helps, and good luck, make sure to give it lots of tender loving care!