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Old 10-18-2012, 11:31 PM   #11 
crowntaillove
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I appreciate everyone's input. So, maybe I will start out breeding this pair for a learning experience. Who knows, maybe I'll raise a spawn and swear to never do it again, haha. I really want to do this right. I've gotten my bettas to spawn before, that part is easy and I'm not very concerned about that. However, my fish keep eating the eggs/newly hatched fry. If only Rasputin was more "beginner-friendly" ;]

My fairy shrimp eggs didn't hatch, and I'm really disappointed about that, but oh well. I do have banana worms on hand. Is there any way around using bbs that would be equally as nutritious?

Should I continue trying my spawns in a ten gallon, or should I try a 5 gallon bucket?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:35 AM   #12 
indjo
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What you use to spawn or what you feed fry is personal preference. I don't like the trouble of hatching BBS. So I use egg yolk then daphnia. Tubifex is always in there since I introduce parents. As fry grow more, I feed more variety - mainly live or frozen.

As long as you know how to care for fry in small or big tanks - what ever works for you. But since you're a beginner, I suggest you use a 10g glass tank with heater. Then you could watch their behavior and growth. And most important, you could see if something is wrong with fry. Plastic tubs/buckets are harder to control.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:15 AM   #13 
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What you use to spawn or what you feed fry is personal preference. I don't like the trouble of hatching BBS. So I use egg yolk then daphnia. Tubifex is always in there since I introduce parents. As fry grow more, I feed more variety - mainly live or frozen.

As long as you know how to care for fry in small or big tanks - what ever works for you. But since you're a beginner, I suggest you use a 10g glass tank with heater. Then you could watch their behavior and growth. And most important, you could see if something is wrong with fry. Plastic tubs/buckets are harder to control.
Yeah, I thought that plastic buckets might be harder to maintain, but I wasn't sure.

I have first bites and could definately get egg yolks to feed if that's what you suggest I start feeding them with. I've heard that they don't recognize them as food at first though. I always have plenty of banana worms.

My guy is definately an egg eater though. I'm not sure whether to leave the eggs in the bubble nest in the spawning tank, or to put them in a shallow bowl and float them in the spawning tank. I've discussed both with OFL, but what do you recommend I do?
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:50 AM   #14 
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I'm not suggesting feeding egg yolk. I'm only saying that it works for me. You have to find what best suits your condition. If you have worms, I suggest you feed them that because it's true fry often refuse egg yolk. And too much would quickly foul the water.

There are a couple of methods to artificially hatch eggs. You could leave them in spawning tank or move them to bowl. I prefer moving to bowl because it gives me better hatch rate. Yesterday I had 90 - 100% hatch in 3 bowls and one tiny cup (2 spawns). I left half of the eggs in the spawning tub (which I now regret). I know they hatched but I can't see the results yet .... besides there are older fry in the tub.

Some prefer to leave eggs in the spawning tank/tub because they don't want to disturb the eggs or they don't want the hassle. If you do leave them in the tank, reduce water level . . . I mainly do this for me, not for fry . . . LOL. Remember to use clean new water if you leave them in the tub - to reduce possible molding. Once they've hatched, add aged water - if possible infusoria infested water.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:25 PM   #15 
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I'm not suggesting feeding egg yolk. I'm only saying that it works for me. You have to find what best suits your condition. If you have worms, I suggest you feed them that because it's true fry often refuse egg yolk. And too much would quickly foul the water.

There are a couple of methods to artificially hatch eggs. You could leave them in spawning tank or move them to bowl. I prefer moving to bowl because it gives me better hatch rate. Yesterday I had 90 - 100% hatch in 3 bowls and one tiny cup (2 spawns). I left half of the eggs in the spawning tub (which I now regret). I know they hatched but I can't see the results yet .... besides there are older fry in the tub.

Some prefer to leave eggs in the spawning tank/tub because they don't want to disturb the eggs or they don't want the hassle. If you do leave them in the tank, reduce water level . . . I mainly do this for me, not for fry . . . LOL. Remember to use clean new water if you leave them in the tub - to reduce possible molding. Once they've hatched, add aged water - if possible infusoria infested water.
I believe it was OFL who recommend putting a snail in the bowl after a few days to eat the unhatched eggs. When would be the exact time that I do that? How big of a bowl are we talking? Like a cereal bowl, or a cup that a petstore betta comes in? Do I put the entire bunch of eggs in one bowl, or divide them? When should I put them back into the original tank, once they've hatched or once they're free swimming? It just seems like a lot of babies to have in a small container.

Do you use a filter in your spawning tanks once the eggs have hatched? Can you recommend a good one that isn't extremely expensive?

I'm really unsure about culturing infusoria. I put some plant trimmings in a pitcher of water and left it next to the window, in about 3 days it turned cloudy. A few days after that it turned back to clear. I've read several different pages that have said to feed when it's cloudy or to feed when it turns back to clear. I read one page that said not to try it at all because the cloudiness is harmful bacteria. I wasn't in need of the culture, I just wanted some practice on culturing it. I tried it again with a vegetable chunk, but all that happened was a gross frothy substance that formed on the surface, and a it drew a lot of gnats.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:47 AM   #16 
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All I do for infusoria is to put a plant in the spawn tank when I set it up and turn on a light over the tank. By the time your fry are free swimming you will have lots of critters for your fry to feed off.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:36 AM   #17 
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Well, I'm completely unintersted in creating show bettas that meet IBC standards.
Love it! IBC standards are outdated anyways?
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:18 AM   #18 
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I use cereal bowls or 1L ice cream bowls (anything shallow and easy to handle/move around). I prefer to divide eggs into several bowls. I don't think it does any good - sometimes I still get 0%. But for some reason it makes me feel better. I think OFL puts snails in after 24 hours. I put them in after they hatch of when they become free swimming. I leave them in the bowl until about 2 days after free swimming. Since they hatch, I add or change 50% of aged water. Then I float the bowl in the tank for about 30 - 60 minutes (depends on weather). Then pour them into the tank. If you're worried, you could pour tank water into the bowl until it over flows and slowly release.

I don't use filters mostly but if I do I wait until they're 5mm long. That's when they really compete against each other - the reason why it is best to move them to bigger tanks.

Cloudy water during the first few days is decaying matter. Using veggies makes this process worse. I usually use veggies/daphnia in the tank/tub and leave them to die out or decay for about 3 weeks. By then the tank should be infested with micro critters.
Sometimes I do it like Vil - age tank with plants and let algae (not hair algae) grow. Change 50% water with aged water from another tub and add a thumb full of tubifex. Add daphnia after fry are in there. I usually do this to smaller tanks (1 - 5g) for smaller spawns.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:56 PM   #19 
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I use cereal bowls or 1L ice cream bowls (anything shallow and easy to handle/move around). I prefer to divide eggs into several bowls. I don't think it does any good - sometimes I still get 0%. But for some reason it makes me feel better. I think OFL puts snails in after 24 hours. I put them in after they hatch of when they become free swimming. I leave them in the bowl until about 2 days after free swimming. Since they hatch, I add or change 50% of aged water. Then I float the bowl in the tank for about 30 - 60 minutes (depends on weather). Then pour them into the tank. If you're worried, you could pour tank water into the bowl until it over flows and slowly release.

I don't use filters mostly but if I do I wait until they're 5mm long. That's when they really compete against each other - the reason why it is best to move them to bigger tanks.

Cloudy water during the first few days is decaying matter. Using veggies makes this process worse. I usually use veggies/daphnia in the tank/tub and leave them to die out or decay for about 3 weeks. By then the tank should be infested with micro critters.
Sometimes I do it like Vil - age tank with plants and let algae (not hair algae) grow. Change 50% water with aged water from another tub and add a thumb full of tubifex. Add daphnia after fry are in there. I usually do this to smaller tanks (1 - 5g) for smaller spawns.
thank you so much for the information!
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