A is for AAAAAH brown Algae!

[harleraven]

I don't think otos eat brown algae? They are diatoms, not true algae. I can't really add more fish without being on the border of overstocking or actually overstocking the tank, so I need a different solution.

Originally Posted by aokashi

let's tru to get to the source of your problem.
what kind of lights are you using?
6500k? or more orange?
do you have any plants?

try and keep your nitrates under 20ppm too.
40 will kill shrimps. lol.

I'm not sure what kind of light. It came with it.
No plants as I don't think I have the right kind of light for plants.
I am trying to keep the nitrates down. I've been increasing the water changes to try to get it under 15 ppm. Right now it is about 25 ppm, best I can tell. It's definitely under 40 ppm, but my test kit isn't quite sensitive enough to tell me if it's 20 or 25 ppm.

[aokashi]

otos do eat diatoms...
it may not seem much but orangish light and some extra nitrate may be the core reason for your algae.

[xShainax]

Here's a website



Link removed

[ChoclateBetta]

Mine never did now they get green and my tank is cycled proably to many ferts.

[Olympia]

I had diatoms when I first set up my 15 gallon, but they went away on their own. It does happen to new tanks sometimes.

[ChoclateBetta]

For me I just took the tank down used new sand, new filter, and new set up.

[Oldfishlady]

Its not uncommon to have diatoms in new setups-usually they will resolve on their own as Olympia posted.

It can take about 2-3 months more or less for the system to mature.

Other causes of diatoms-old light bulbs (over 12months) light on too long or not on long enough, old tank syndrome, high nitrate, wrong color temp lights to name the most common causes when its not due to a new system.

Best way to control-wipe them off and vacuum weekly, change light bulb if its old, maintain a photoperiod of at least 8 hours without live plants-with live plants 10-12h. To keep nitrates controlled- rinse/swish filter media in old tank water or dechlorinated water a couple of times a month and deep vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plants roots weekly. Add live plants-stem and floating to help control nitrates.

What is your source water and have you tested it to get a base line for-ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH....with and without additives.

What kind of testing products are you using and additives used.

I don't recommend adding other livestock for the control of algae or for cleanup-Unless you want them to start with. Aquariums are closed system and can't support dietary needs without supplement feedings-The system might not be able to support the added food/bioload and that could cause other issues.

What size is this tank and stocking...can you post a pic...

[ChoclateBetta]

My Otos get plenty of grazzing and they hate fake algae the Cories steal it there is not too much but enough for food and blue-green algae elimination?

[harleraven]

10 gallon, 6 neon tetras, 6 pygmy cory catfish. According to the calculator on http://www.aqadvisor.com , I'm at 87%, so I definitely don't want to be adding more fish. I don't have a good picture, unfortunately. The fish themselves seem comfortable enough. They play in the filter, school and shoal together, eat like little champs, no signs of stress/disease, etc.

I'm using API 5 in 1 aquarium test strips, which seemed to be pretty accurate since I had the water for my cycling tank tested at my LSF (and it came up right around what they came up with).

My lightbulb is only a few months old. It doesn't LOOK orange (rather bright white), but I know that does not necessarily mean anything. I'll ask at my LFS (where I bought the set-up) what type of light it is. I'm going back in a few days to get the water from my cycling tank tested as accurately as possible (since it is SO close to being ready for me betta!), so I'll bring a sample of both tanks and ask about the bulb.

I use tap water with conditioner (API) for chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. I just tested the tap water, and it appears to have 0 ppm for both nitrates and nitrites.

So probably just because it's a new tank and nitrates are a bit high? I did another 20% change today, making it three times this week. I just don't want to stress the biofilter. I do want live plants, so I've been planning on getting a proper light for them and setting some up. They sell them at my LFS, so I'll ask what all I can toss in to get started right away.

[LeoTheLakerBetta]

It seems your tank may be overstocked.