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Old 11-16-2012, 05:54 PM   #11 
Bsalem05
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:02 PM   #12 
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Remember, 10 days is best.

The high heat is to speed up the life cycle of the parasites.. AS can help but heat is mandatory to speedy recovery. Once the parasites are off your betta, you'll need the highest possible amount of AS in your tank to kill it. Let the treatment continue until deadline. He should be fine then. :)

If you get out 50% of the tank water, put some new water in and then just swish the media in some used tank water. It'll clean it a little bit. You shouldn't clean the tank with anything. Just let it be, the parasites need a host so they'll die in time. You can change the substrate without doing a 100% change, just look into YouTube.

What's the main tank's tank size..?
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:23 PM   #13 
Bsalem05
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also a 5gl .

I'll do the 10 days...
I'm planning on using a couple of critter tanks for the treatment... when changing the water is it better to reuse some of the current water in my tank or condition some fresh water with the salt?
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:27 PM   #14 
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You don't have to move him then. :)
For every water change, it's always fresh dechlorinated water.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:37 PM   #15 
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In the main tank, those pesky buggers can remain in the substrate, filter medium, and perhaps on decorations in their cyst stage for years. It is thought that they are present in almost all fresh water setups, most healthy fish have a natural defense
of the slime coat to prevent an outbreak. As you know a sudden chill or other stress can bring on a case of ich. How you handle the empty main tank is up to you.I have seen people completely tear down only to have another out break a month later, and others only raising the temp and keeping everything running for 10 days and the ich never returns.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:42 PM   #16 
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Thanks!
Will run the tank at high heat while hes being treated in separate critter tank.
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