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Old 12-10-2012, 12:10 AM   #11 
callistra
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White stringy poop is indicative of an internal infection. It could be parasite or it could be bacterial.

The best way to treat for this is to feed the meds. You need a wheat based pellet (protein based won't soak up meds well enough) like Hikari and some garlic guard (seachem) and a medication called metronidazole by Seachem. You take a little of the garlic guard into a small cup and one measure of the metro med and mix it up. put the pellets in, mix them around and let them soak 10-15min. Feed 2 to three twice a day for a minimum of 2 weeks and a minimum of one week past when his poop problem looks totally clear. Also you need to mix up pellets at least daily, and even better twice a day each time you feed because the medicine will lose its effectiveness one it hits the liquid. If you stop early there's a good chance of reinfection, and it's not uncommon for treatment to take 3-4 weeks. There is premedicated food you can buy it and it suggests just feeding for 4 weeks reguardless. This will take care of any internal bacterial and parasite infection.

Internal infections can results from frequent constipation. This can come from being too cold or not getting the right food. What is the temp of his tank? Anything freeze dried must be presoaked (in tank water is fine) before feeding or it can cause constipation. Also wheat based pellets can. What pellets are you using and how many does he get per day? Does he get a fast day a week?

Looks like you're doing excellent with water changes, so I don't think that was caused by a water quality problem.

Last edited by callistra; 12-10-2012 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:38 AM   #12 
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Thanks for the tips, Callistra. I am currently feeding him Omega One Pellets (I believe these are protein and not wheat based). I feed him probably around 5 in the morning and 5 at night.

I also feed him dried shrimp on occasion too. Last week I gave him a pea because I heard they were a treat for bettas and wanted to see if he'd like it. He went to town on it, but maybe his body didn't like something new.

I did not know to give him a fast day once a week, but that sounds like a good idea since I was reading Bettas can go a long time without food.

I don't have a heater for his tank. It is getting chillier here (I live in SoCal, so it's usually warm, but it does get chilly at night). So I'll go pick him up a heater. Is there one you recommend over others? This one at PetSmart is getting awful reviews.

That solution above with garlic guard and metronidazole sounds like a good idea. I do have Betta Revive. Will that help or hurt him?
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:11 PM   #13 
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Any tips from anyone else?

Thank you!
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:38 PM   #14 
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You are way over feeding for the size of the pellet. Cut back to two twice a day with one fast day a week. If you want to feed freeze dried foods, make sure to soak them in a little tank water first to soften them up.

If you're feeding a pea you need to shell it and only feed half in little pieces. You also only want to use fresh or frozen and not canned.

I wouldn't use the betta revive. It won't help this.

I like aqueon pro and jager heaters.

Good luck! I think he will be okay. I think he just needs to cut back on his food.. they can be little pigs :)
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:26 PM   #15 
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An update on Scully:

He continues to remain lethargic and spending much of his time in the darker areas of his tank either under the fake plants or on top near the corners. He still hasn't eaten anything (it's been 6 days), despite my placing food right in front of him. I literally stuck a pea to a fork and dropped it down in front of his face and he didn't seem to care. One time, he went to eat a food pellet, but spit it right out and swam away.

Callistra, I went to two pet stores and could not find garlic guard or any wheat-based pellets I did, however, find API General Cure for Parasitic Fish Disease which has Metrodinazole which you recommended. It's a powder, and the full course treatment is 2 doses with 48 hours after each. I'm halfway through now (and careful about not overdosing). Scully didn't seem to like the powder coming down, and began darting around the tank haphazardly for a minute. Does that mean it's working? Or is he just pissed? (This stuff just smells like chemicals )

Lastly, I noticed something new on Scully's body today just below his pectoral fin. It's about the same size, shape, and color as a food pellet. I'm not sure if this is a growth, fungus, tumor, or what? I took two photos to show you. On one of them I'm shining a flashlight on him which makes the growth appear very white. I think it's more beige-toned, and originally I thought it was a food pellet stuck to him. Thoughts on this?? Should I treat for something else like a fungus? How do I force Scully to eat???
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:06 PM   #16 
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Dosing the tank with general cure won't cure an internal infection. He needs to be fed it. Most pellets are wheat based. The only ones that aren't are Omega one and NLS. Any other pellet will work.. betta bites.. hikari.. aqueon.. and if you can't find garlic guard just take a little tank water out and soak with that in a dish.

But.. he won't eat.. I'd go for an antibiotic that goes internal then. Kanaplex in the water along with epsom salts at 1 tsp per gallon predissolved and check the ingredients label to make sure they are pure with no additives.

The meds should be predissolved before adding to the water so he doesn't get a hit of them. If you're dosing for a 2.5g there's no way to measure it out in powder form.. For Kanaplex you take one level measure (use the cap to level it) into 5 teaspoons of tank water. Mix it up really well so it's good and dissolved, then put 2.5 tsp of the mixture into the tank. Throw away the rest as it will lose potency and can't be saved. Dose every other day for three doses. You may need to repeat a second set. (The General Cure is for 10g so what you should have done was take 10 teaspoons out and put 2.5 in.)

I'm not sure what's below his fin.. Looks like maybe a fungus? Kanaplex should fix that too so long as it's not a tumor.

What's the temp of his tank now? Also in a tank that small make sure you're doing at least one 100% water change a week with one 50% mid week.

Last edited by callistra; 12-16-2012 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:11 AM   #17 
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You could try this stuff called Maracyn or Maracyn 2, they each treat different diseases in bettas. My old fish pudge had dropsy and I looked under the fish diseases thread and saw a few items of which I could purchase..so I did some research on each product and found that Maracyn worked wonders. So I purchased it and in a few days of treatment, pudge was exceptionally better and pretty much back to normal. Even the very same day, pudge was swimming around in a few hours. I would put your betta into a small hospital tank instead of keeping him inside his normal tank. He's probably getting worse from that because if its bacterial or fungal, whatever it is is in his tank. So you got to clean that out and disinfect ASAP. When he's in the hospital tank, make sure to change his water everyday, add the water conditioner, the Maracyn and whichever else you add into his tank.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:02 PM   #18 
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Thanks for the advice. I think I should definitely add salts, as well as move him into a hospital tank. I just read today about Columnaris, which this very well could be. Have you any experience treating it? Scully's been sluggish, has no appetite, and responds negatively to being in light (the moment I turned his light off today he started swimming around). I fed him a pellet today, but unfortunately he spit it out -- 4 times he tried, but just couldn't eat it.

Callistra, I'll try getting some of those other wheat-based food pellets. To answer your question, I put a heater in the tank so it's constantly around 79 degrees. But I read that Columnaris can thrive in warmer conditions, so I'll try to keep the temperature a little lower.

Is it safe to use Kanaplex and Maracyn concurrently?
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:43 PM   #19 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trevorck View Post
Thanks for the advice. I think I should definitely add salts, as well as move him into a hospital tank. I just read today about Columnaris, which this very well could be. Have you any experience treating it? Scully's been sluggish, has no appetite, and responds negatively to being in light (the moment I turned his light off today he started swimming around). I fed him a pellet today, but unfortunately he spit it out -- 4 times he tried, but just couldn't eat it.

Callistra, I'll try getting some of those other wheat-based food pellets. To answer your question, I put a heater in the tank so it's constantly around 79 degrees. But I read that Columnaris can thrive in warmer conditions, so I'll try to keep the temperature a little lower.

Is it safe to use Kanaplex and Maracyn concurrently?
I have not experienced treating it, but I treated my fish for dropsy and Maracyn worked wonders. I read about Columnaris and definitely quarantine him asap. Also make sure that the temperature of the water is between 75 and 76 degrees. I'm not too sure if you read the information on Columnaris from petfish.net , but it recommended to use Kanacyn (Kanamycin sulfate), Spectrogram (Kanamycin sulfate and Nitrofurazone), Tetracycline, or Furan 2 (Nitrofurazone). Definitely get him on anti-biotics because it looks as if his disease is getting worse from the formation of that white thing.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:11 PM   #20 
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Maracyn is erythromycin and it's not my first choice and unlikely to be effective. I would look for Kanaplex and if you can't find it look for Maracyn Plus and if you can't find that look for Furan 2. Don't mix these meds.

You only need to get the wheat based pellets if you're going to try feeding meds, which it looks like we're going bacteria and in water treatment. Since he doesn't look emaciated or skinny at all that's more likely anyway.

Last edited by callistra; 12-17-2012 at 05:15 PM.
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