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Old 12-16-2012, 11:02 PM   #1 
Nyaro
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Could this be Tuberculosis?

Housing
Yue is kept in a one-gallon critter keeper. He has a 10W heater that keeps his tank about 72-75 degrees (I have glass thermometer). Right now it's about 72. My house can be kinda cold in the winter (though summertime is the complete opposite). No filter or aeration. No tank mates. He's kept with one silk plant and some gravel.

Food
I feed all of my boys Aqueon betta pellets, usually 3-4 pellets twice a day, though I will have them fast or cut down on amount/times per day the rare occasion that they seem a bit bloated.

Maintenance

I try to do a 100% change once a week, though I haven't been as good as I should have been the last few weeks (and I'm sure this is why he has fin rot. *sigh*). I add Stress Coat to the water when I change it, and sometimes aquarium salt just in case.

Water Parameters:
I do not have a test kit. I'm going to get one as soon as I'm paid (which should be sometime this week) so recommendations would be great.

Symptoms and Treatment
His tail is ragged and missing pieces, as are his bottom fins (the two long front ones and the larger one). He also has a kinked spine (which he's had since I got him, though it got worse as he became an adult). He also has a two red spots on his head and right above his mouth that didn't go away with Fungus Eleminator and have remained the same size and shape since they appeared about four weeks ago.

His behavior is the same as usual. Active, curious, and exuberant about food.

I did a 100% water change and added aquarium salt. I removed the gravel but kept the plant. A few hours later I went by Petsmart and picked up Tetracycline and added the first dose of that (Is it safe with aquarium salt? This just occurred to me now...).

Honestly, it's been one thing after another with this guy and I've never had sick fish before, so sometimes I'm worried he might have Tuberculosis or something. I got him about three and a half months ago when he was still little, so I'm guessing he's about 6 months. I believe he's had columnaris (it was hard to tell though, since he's white, but I thought I saw whiter spots near his mouth and gills, so erred on the side of caution). I treated him with Fungus eliminator and as said previously the red spots didn't go away, but he seemed to perk up and his blue colors from when he was younger came back. I'm starting to also wonder if he's got an internal parasite, since he's always been skinny. Then there's the spine, and now the fin rot.

I'm hoping he's just a little weaker than my other boys and I just have to be more careful and do frequent testings and water changes for him, because I can and am willing to do that. But I have no idea how long it takes tuberculosis to show up and then kill the fish, and he has a lot of the symptoms listed.. (I've been using gloves to clean his tank for the past month and I take care to keep anything to do with him separate from my other three).

Basically, I guess what I want to know is, am I doing the right treatment? Does he have tuberculosis? Do I need a better heater, and if so where can I find one that will fit a one-gallon? What test kits do you recommend for ammonia especially? (Also, should I treat him for internal parasites once he's healed from the fin rot?)

Today:
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps8913129d.jpg

Before Columnaris Treatment: (red forehead spot)
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps65200aff.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...psb33144b2.jpg

Two months-ish ago: (no forehead spot)
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...hazi/043-1.jpg
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:10 PM   #2 
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Has he been lethargic or lost his appetite? 72* can be okay for a healthy betta sometimes, but since he is not doing well his temp should be around 80*. I am thinking it might be hole in the head disease because the sore is on his head. I dont see any red or black edges on the fins, so he may just be biting them out of stress because he isn't feeling well.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:17 PM   #3 
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Nope, he's his usual frisky self, and he's always excited for food and has been eating, and that hasn't changed since the Columnaris thing.

I thought maybe he was biting too since the edges are still white, but I've never seen him at it and some of that looks nearly impossibly for him to have gotten to, as far as I know. But then again, the top fin looks pretty much fine and I'm sure that's one he wouldn't be able to reach. Hmmm.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:21 PM   #4 
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Well lethargy and acting sick are also symptoms of TB, although I would keep wearing gloves so I don't DIE. Lol. I'm sorry but I don't know if you are using the right treatment or not, but it does look like a bacterial infection so the antibiotics are probably good.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #5 
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By 3-4 twice a day do you mean 3 or 4 split up or a totall of 6 to 8? 3 or 4 total is plenty, and make sure to give him a fast day a week.

In something that small he needs one 100% a week and two smaller changes in between.

The cold.. he's freezing. It will weaken his immune system and also lead to constipation issues. If you get him in something larger you can get a good adjustable heater than will keep him water. Keeping him that cold long term is going to shorten his life.

He's got fin rot and and that sore on his head is a water quality problem. At this point you need to increase your water changes and do AQ OR meds. If you do meds don't bother with Tetracycline. I'd look for Kanaplex, but if you can't find it then Erythromycin would prob clear that up. It doesn't look too bad yet.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:57 PM   #6 
Nyaro
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6-8 total. They used to get 3-4 a day total but they always seemed hungry all the time so I upped it and kept an eye out for bloating. I especially wanted to give Yue more because he's so skinny. But if you feel there's a legitimate reason (besides bloating, which they don't seem to be affected by) to lower the number for Yue's health especially I will do so.

(EDIT: I will do a weekly fast though, for sure.)

I'm going by the 50%, then 100% plan mentioned in one of the topics from now on. I realize water quality is a big issue.

I can get a bigger critter keeper and a bigger heater when I get paid (hopefully tomorrow).

I'm assuming you don't believe he has tuberculosis or internal parasites since you didn't mention them?

If he just has fin rot/water quality problems, could I potentially go ahead and get a bigger, filtered tank for him to share with one of my other bettas instead of a critter keeper, or would that be jumping the gun a bit (or, I can do so and just wait until he's healed to add the other fish)? Or should he forever be separate since he seems to be more sensitive to things than my others? I just don't want to spend money on a temporary tank if I can spend it on something more awesome/better for him in the long term, and I don't have as much room as I'd like, so a shared tank may work out better space-wise (though I can make space if need be).

EDIT: Ah, A mini-bow 2.5 gallon would probably work for him and one of my other boys, and the other two can share a 5 gallon mini-bow. I'd just need to look into heaters then.

Last edited by Nyaro; 12-17-2012 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:15 AM   #7 
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Well he's definitely not skinny :) Bettas are little piggys. They will overeat if you let them. In addition to constipation overfeeding, which can also lead to internal infections and swim bladder issues. It will lead to a faster build up of ammonia and in a bowl that small it is a real concern. It's just not a healthy thing to do for a variety of reasons. I promise he'll be fine on 3-4 a day. If you really want to feed more you can get a smaller pellet.. like NLS betta you can feed 8 of those no problems.

He doesn't appear to have those problems, no. External parasites can cause sores on the head but you would see signs of them.. like one of them hanging onto the wound. My guess is it is bacterial in nature from water issues.

Anything larger would definitely help to keep water quality better, but I would wait and treat him in the 1g. It makes water changes and medicating easier. You can be cycling the larger bowl/tank while he's being treated. Make sure to stick a prefilter sponge on the intake tube if you plan on trying to cycle because the flow will be strong and sometimes bettas get sucked up, and also it will another place for good bacteria to grow and establish. Also if you find that he is struggling with the current you can baffle it. There's a sticky on baffling in the care forum. Still with a tank that small you'll need to be testing weekly and making large changes. Here's a sticky on cycling and one on water changes: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838 http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=66595 If you can afford it, keeping bettas alone in their own cycled 5g is really easy to keep the water quality good, but if you can't the 2.5g will be a good upgrade from the 1g.

For the 5g you can get a 50w aqueon pro or jager heater. For the smaller 2.5 gallon a marineland visitherm 25w would work. Make sure each get one of those glass in tank thermometers because heaters tend to be off a few degrees.

Last edited by callistra; 12-17-2012 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:44 AM   #8 
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Alright, I'm sold. :) I'll go back to 3-4 a day and do the weekly fast too. ^^ I'm glad you don't think he's skinny! I guess I'm just used to my other three. They're kinda bulldogs in comparison, though I wouldn't call them fat. They're just thicker in build if that makes sense. (or maybe they are fat and I didn't realize. o.O)

I just realized the critter keeper tops are really open and that might be why the heaters don't work as well as I'd hoped. I covered the lids with press n' seal except for a small part around the lid/opening and some slits I made with a knife so they have some breathing room. I'm going to keep an eye on it for the next hour or so to see if it helps any temp-wise.

I'd probably do a baffle for him especially, since he's such an awkward swimmer due to his spine. Don't want to make it harder on him than it is already.

These topics will be really helpful, thank you!

I'll definitely look at tanks sometime this week. If need be I'll buy his first then follow up with the rest as I get the money. :) And I have the glass thermometers already, so there's that. ^^
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:52 PM   #9 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyaro View Post
Alright, I'm sold. :) I'll go back to 3-4 a day and do the weekly fast too. ^^ I'm glad you don't think he's skinny! I guess I'm just used to my other three. They're kinda bulldogs in comparison, though I wouldn't call them fat. They're just thicker in build if that makes sense. (or maybe they are fat and I didn't realize. o.O)

I just realized the critter keeper tops are really open and that might be why the heaters don't work as well as I'd hoped. I covered the lids with press n' seal except for a small part around the lid/opening and some slits I made with a knife so they have some breathing room. I'm going to keep an eye on it for the next hour or so to see if it helps any temp-wise.

I'd probably do a baffle for him especially, since he's such an awkward swimmer due to his spine. Don't want to make it harder on him than it is already.

These topics will be really helpful, thank you!

I'll definitely look at tanks sometime this week. If need be I'll buy his first then follow up with the rest as I get the money. :) And I have the glass thermometers already, so there's that. ^^
Good idea with the veggie wrap. They need humid and warm air above their water :)
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