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Old 12-28-2012, 06:11 PM   #1 
bettaluver14
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Arrow High ammonia and pH!! :(

Housing
What size is your tank? 2.5gal(soon upgrading to 10gal)
What temperature is your tank? 80
Does your tank have a filter? yes
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? yes
Is your tank heated? yes
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? a couple neon tetras

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Aqueon Betta Pellets, Aqueon Freeze-dried bloodworms, and he sometimes eats a few of the tetras' Hikari Tropical Micro pellets.
How often do you feed your betta fish? 3 times a day

Maintenance
How often do you perform a water change? weekly
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? 50-75% and i clean all ornaments and decors thouroughly
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? API Stress coat and Water Conditioner and a tad of Melafix because Zuko(my male VT) tail bites. (although he hasn't done it in a few weeks :D)

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? Just did 12/28/12 at around 5pm

Ammonia: .50ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 10ppm
pH: 7.4

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? his color might look a TINY bit dull and not as vibrant, i'm not sure..
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? he hasn't changed at all, which is good
When did you start noticing the symptoms? they've been on and off.. i just bought a API liquid test kit today and tested the water for the frist time ever.
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? i've been putting in melafix for his tail biting.. but that isn't the problem.. right when i noticed the ammonia was deathly high i changed 25% of the water and added clean and treated water.
Does your fish have any history of being ill? nope!!
How old is your fish (approximately)? i got him in July 2012... So maybe from the time i got him 5 months ago plus 6 weeks? so pretty much 6months


All the fish seem perfectly fine... but i'm nervous i will wake up one morning and find them all dead from Ammonia poisoning :T help?? and as i said above i did a little water change to see if it helps after i found out my ammonia was high (as of 5pm) since i have sorta fresher water should i test the Ammonia again? i don't want to have any fishy funerals

Last edited by bettaluver14; 12-28-2012 at 06:28 PM. Reason: i had a typo :3
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:23 PM   #2 
whatsupyall
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Seems like your water is cycling. Be sure to do daily water changes to help with high spikes in water parameters. Other than that, seems quite normal.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:27 PM   #3 
bettaluver14
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Lightbulb

okay will do and how does pH harm fish? i know ammonia is just plain deadly lol but whatabout pH?

and is my nitrate normal?
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:07 PM   #4 
callistra
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Your PH is great. I wish my tap water ph looked like that. Don't worry about it.

Your feeding your betta 3 times a day? How many pellets a day is he getting? I would not feed any more than 3 or 4 of those pellets -total-. If he's getting the tetra pellets I might cut it back to 2 or 3 a day. He should also be getting one fast day a week where he eats nothing. This is very important, especially with pellets like those that are mostly wheat and fillers. Blood worms are not very nutritional but are fine to feed one a week as a treat. Whenever feeding freeze dried foods, they need to be soaked thoroughly until soft (about 10 minutes or even 15) to avoid constipation issues. You take a little tank/dechlorinated water into a cup and soak the blood worm.

Your nitrates are okay. What you need to do is be testing daily for ammonia and nitrites. Any time you see ammonia or nitrites get to .25ppm you do a water change. In addition to this you do a weekly 50%+ water change. At first you will see an ammonia spike. After that ammonia will go to zero and you will see a nitrite spike. Eventually you will start seeing some nitrates and then eventually both ammonia and nitrites will be zero and you will be left with only nitrates. They should remain under 20 to be safe for your fish. Those can be removed by weekly water changes. Cycling will take up to 2 months. http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838

Also be aware that with something that small it is very very hard if not next to impossible to maintain the bb supply necessary to keep your cycle going, so you may never be able to reach a point where all ammonia and nitrites go away. You may always need to do two large weekly water changes to keep ammonia down. A lot of people will tell you not to even bother trying to cycle anything less than 5 gallons, but you can try.

Generally speaking a tank of that size takes two water changes a week - one 50 and one 100%. The filter, once fully established, will hopefully let you get it down to one larger change a week.

This is how to do a large water change without shocking your betta:

Quote:
To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:09 PM   #5 
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Looks like you're overstocked. 2.5 gallon is only room for ONE betta. Two tops if it is heavily planted and cycled. You need to be changing the tank at least twice a week. 100%. Neon Tetras need to be in schools of 6 or more or they get quite nervous and nippy. The ammonia should be normal after you remove the tetras. Your nitrates look normal. I wouldn't let it get past 15ppm. The lower, the better. The ph is fine, near neutral. Btw, you don't need to feed your betta three times a day. That could also be contributing to the high ammonia. Uneaten food and/or too much to eat = a lot of poop. Good luck. Keep us posted. :)
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:13 PM   #6 
bettaluver14
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Lightbulb

it said on the liquid test kit the nitrates should be 40 or less than that... so i thought they were ok... should they be higher than 10ppm?

and i do a change like the one you attatched but whenever i move him to the cup he bites his tail. whenever i keep the fish in the tank they seem fine and Zuko doesn't tail bite. i never do 100% because that is too much stress for him :T
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:15 PM   #7 
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The Ph is fine, fish will adapt. You may have high ammonia because of the stocking. A 2.5g isn't really big enough for multiple fish. If the tank hasn't been running for long the BB hasn't built up yet to handle the bio load. You can cut back on the # of times you feed, instead of 3 times a day, feed only once or twice at most. Also do a bigger water change, do 50%, if your tap water doesn't have ammonia that'll knock your .5 down to .25. If you want to get it lower, do a 50%, then do a second 30-50% water change the same day. Have you tested your tap water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates & Ph? If not you should, that way you know what you're starting with. Personally, I would move everyone into the 10g if its set up because it looks like you're pretty much doing a fish in cycle on the 2.5. You can move the filter media from the 2.5 to the 10g & if it has BB it'll help cycle the 10g. When using a filter or cycling a tank you don't want to clean the decos or plants other than maybe wiping off some algae if there is any. All I do is vacuum the substrate & anything floating in the water. The stuff in the aquarium has BB, not as much as the filter but its still there. Hopefully this makes sense. Let me know if I need to clarify anything.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:18 PM   #8 
callistra
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Under 20 you're fine. Some fish are more tolerant than others but any fish should be fine under 20

Well you're going to need to do the larger changes to keep his ammonia down. Eventually, unless your cycle becomes fully established, this will be necessary. Sorry he and you are just going to have to get used to it.

I just recognized you from your multiple other threads.. don't mean to be rude but all this info is the same thing everyone's been telling you in so many other threads now I'd totally lost track.. Water changes need to be increased, monitor your cycle, get rid of the tetras or get him some more in a 10 gallon..sorry it's all you can do.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:20 PM   #9 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bettaluver14 View Post
it said on the liquid test kit the nitrates should be 40 or less than that... so i thought they were ok... should they be higher than 10ppm?

and i do a change like the one you attatched but whenever i move him to the cup he bites his tail. whenever i keep the fish in the tank they seem fine and Zuko doesn't tail bite. i never do 100% because that is too much stress for him :T
Your nitrates are fine. Some people will say <20 others <40, 10 is fine.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:07 AM   #10 
stellar981
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i'm learning slowly.. but did anyone else notice she mentioned that she uses melafix.. isn't that stuff toxic to bettas?
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