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Old 01-01-2013, 02:24 AM   #11 
Bluewind
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Looks like everyone has a handle on helping with the dx, but I just wanted to ask you if you got store credit for new ones lost. It would be money towards a new pet or treatments for your current one. I know the male jumped, but my lfs is really nice about offering even exchanges if a fish dies within like 10 days post purchase.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #12 
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I changed water at least once a week, I used to do it two to three before I had filters. Also, my fish looked nothing like the fish you posted Callistra. They only had white cottony stuff growing on them, I didn't notice any color changes in fins or tails, just scales and around the gills.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:11 PM   #13 
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[quote=Bluewind;1372412]Looks like everyone has a handle on helping with the dx, but I just wanted to ask you if you got store credit for new ones lost. It would be money towards a new pet or treatments for your current one. I know the male jumped, but my lfs is really nice about offering even exchanges if a fish dies within like 10 days post purchase.
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I never even thought about it, but I'm definitely going to ask next time I go in.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:19 PM   #14 
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White cottony stuff is probably columnaris. Definitely be really careful about disinfecting everything.

A lot if not most people will tell you that it is impossible to fully cycle a 2.5g tank. 5g is the minimum. However, you can always try. Any time you want to cycle without doing 100% weekly water changes, you would need a drops test kit to test for ammonia, nitrite daily. Cycling will take up to 2 weeks. During this time you must do a 50% water change any time you see as little as .25ppm ammonia or nitrite. First you will see spikes in ammonia, eventually that will stop and you will have nitrite spikes. Eventually you would have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and some amount of nitrates that would be taken care of with a weekly water change of about 50% (along with gravel siphoning to remove poop) - this is with much larger tanks. With a 2.5g you may always need to do multiple water changes a week, but only tests would let you know for sure. The filter will help. Some bb will grow there, but it'w not going to be the same as a larger tank.

Doesn't explain all the quick deaths though. They were either already sick or getting reinfected through the container/transfer from other fish.

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Old 01-01-2013, 03:28 PM   #15 
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It could have a thing to do with where you are purchasing the fish..
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:35 PM   #16 
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It sounds like that shipment of fish from the same store may have teh disease, and definitely ow that you've had fish in those tanks starting fresh would be best. Also, like Ayala mentioned, shared nets or cups would transfer the disease, so I'd be crazy careful with Bam. I'm sorry you're having so much trouble =(
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:40 PM   #17 
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Thanks everyone for all the help. I can't really afford to trash all my tanks and stuff and buy everything new so I've been disinfecting EVERYTHING again and again. Bam is still doing fine and I don't share nets or cups so I'm hoping that he won't catch anything.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:41 PM   #18 
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I think he should be okay. I think the soaking, bleach, super rinse soak and then drying in sunlight for 24 hours method was one way for sure to get rid of diseases, parasites and bleach.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:19 AM   #19 
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So this morning I went out and bought new supplies for my fish. A bag of aquarium salt, a test kit that tests, pH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Alkalinity and Hardness. I also bought live plants, as I was using plastic because they are easier to take care of. I have had live plants before and didn't like them but I figured it was time for a change. I also bought a start zyme because didn't have anything for stress and coat. Now I am just wondering what the correct levels of pH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Hardness and Alkalinity should be.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:07 PM   #20 
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pH from 6-9 is okay. Nitrites should be 0 along with ammonia. Nitrates 0-20. Not sure on the other two!
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