Agressive fin rot

[asukabetta]

I have spent the past 10 day trying to deal with Kiyohime's sores on his tail, I used aquarium salt, but then the sores progressed to rot, and it's rotting away rather fast... I proceeded to use medication however I don't see much progress so far, then again it's been only 2 days...

Anything else I could do?

I have him in a 15L tank, with Api stress coat, IAL and medication JBL Ecktol.

[rubinthebetta]

Hmm...I honestly don't know. Maybe PM Sakura?

[MattsBettas]

A picture would help... Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon.

[callistra]

Kanplex by seachem or mardel maracyn plus

[asukabetta]

Originally Posted by MattsBettas

A picture would help... Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon.

read the post. I said I treated it with salt already for 10days. Any further it would have been bad.

Anyways.... Kiyohime passed away this night.

I woke up and... it was laying listless on the tank floor....:/ Did I do something wrong?.... I can't believe Kiyo just left me like that...it makes no sense....

[callistra]

I'm sorry :( It may not have been anything you did. It may have just needed a more aggressive treatment, and it's hard to know that without time.

If you want some advice for your future bettas or current, you could fill this out: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=49233 and we could talk about different care opinions that maybe could keep your next boy healthy but I really wouldn't assume it was your fault.

[asukabetta]

Originally Posted by callistra

I'm sorry :( It may not have been anything you did. It may have just needed a more aggressive treatment, and it's hard to know that without time.

If you want some advice for your future bettas or current, you could fill this out: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=49233 and we could talk about different care opinions that maybe could keep your next boy healthy but I really wouldn't assume it was your fault.

it could be it was very odd, I did everything to the book, I had bettas with fin rot before and I treated it with the same method, first going for conservative then proceeding to more agressive treatments as needed :/ He was a beauty though...

Housing
What size is your tank?

5gallons - 20Liters

What temperature is your tank?

78F, 28C

Does your tank have a filter?

No

Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?

No

Is your tank heated?

Yes with an adjustable heater, 25 W

What tank mates does your betta fish live with?

None.

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish?

Occasional Frozen mysis shrimp, the occasional frozen blood worm, spectrum betta pellets.

How often do you feed your betta fish?
Once a day, with one day of fasting once a week.

Maintenance
How often do you perform a water change?

50% and 100% weekly

What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change?

50% mid week (wensdays)
100% sundays

What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change?

Stress coat api, double dose for healing properties
IAL

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?


Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:0
pH: 7
Hardness
Alkalinity: ?

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed?

Dead fin tissue, brown-grey in color

How has your betta fish's behavior changed?

Not any way observable

When did you start noticing the symptoms?

After Ich treatment a week ago

Have you started treating your fish? If so, how?

Aquarium salt premixed and added to the water and keeping a steady clean environment, daily water changes with redoses in AQ salt

Does your fish have any history of being ill?

Just ich

How old is your fish (approximately)?

I do not know, perhaps around 7-8 months?

[ChoclateBetta]

How often is water chages?

[callistra]

That all looks really good to me. I think you were doing the right thing. You even do more wcs than I do.. I only do 100% wc weekly in my 5gs without filters, so I don't think the water quality was an issue. The 100%s include a thorough rinsing of gravel and dechor right?

Just make sure when you redose aquarium salt you only redose as much as water you change (so if you remove 50% of the water only redose 50% aq).

Also acclimation is important during wcs:

To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

If you ever see stuff like this: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=90086 salt wont' do anything. Also anything particularly aggressive doesn't usually respond to salt.

[asukabetta]

Originally Posted by callistra

That all looks really good to me. I think you were doing the right thing. You even do more wcs than I do.. I only do 100% wc weekly in my 5gs without filters, so I don't think the water quality was an issue. The 100%s include a thorough rinsing of gravel and dechor right?

Just make sure when you redose aquarium salt you only redose as much as water you change (so if you remove 50% of the water only redose 50% aq).

Also acclimation is important during wcs:



If you ever see stuff like this: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=90086 salt wont' do anything. Also anything particularly aggressive doesn't usually respond to salt.

Yes, remember in a thread (you were there but I missed a few pages so you point some things out to me) I mentioned acclimatization of the betta during water changes, I also use the cup method XD

And yes I redose everything.

During AQ salt however and medication I redose fully and perform 100% water changes on a bare tank.

My 100% regular changes include rinsing of decor. (i do not have substrate no more)

The aq salt didn't start as a treatment to fin rot, but to finish up the ich treatment after the use of medication, during which the rot became present.

I decided to give it the 4 more days it had before deciding on proceeding to medication once again, in which after 3 days kiyohime died.

And no it wasn't that mystery disease, I had two bettas die from that-- Cheshire a blue VT and Aquilies a rescue Blue mustard gas... it killed within 24 hours, however this rot was much slower than that and stayed on his tail. As it was present for 7 days at the very least

@ Chocolatebetta: the water changes is stated right above you.