Betta Fish Care  
Go Back   Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care > Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies
Check out the eBook Betta Fish Care Made Easy
betta fish
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-13-2013, 12:46 PM   #1 
Ayalah
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
New Tank Betta?

Quote:
Housing
What size is your tank?

10 gallons

What temperature is your tank?

78*

Does your tank have a filter?

Yes, Tetra PF10

Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?

No

Is your tank heated?

Yes

What tank mates does your betta fish live with?

A few live plants

Food

What type of food do you feed your betta fish?

With research from these forums, a bad quality called Tetrafin. Will be getting new ones soon though.

How often do you feed your betta fish?

I used to feed him usually once, or twice a day when he lived in his old 0.5 gallon tank. I upgraded him to this 10 gallon 3 days ago and have been feeding him once in the morning, and once at night.

Maintenance

How often do you perform a water change?
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change?
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change?
-answer belows-

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness:
Alkalinity:
-- I used Strips and its not completely accurate.. but what I can tell is that my nitrate aren't completely 0, my nitrites seem on the stress side, my alkalinity is somewhat high, and ammonia seems to be less than 0.5 but not 0 either.
Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? He has this white discoloration at the top of his head and a little red on one of his gills.

How has your betta fish's behavior changed? He was very active the first two days and now he just mellows out, swimming sparely around the tank.

When did you start noticing the symptoms? He seemed to have a very teeny discoloration in the 0.5 gal tank he was in, or maybe not, because the light from the new tank has finally shown me a good look at him.

Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? I added about a tablespoon and a half of salt to the water and I actually tried applying pimafix on the discoloration of his head gently with a q-tip and a black scale seemed to come off? I haven't added any of the solution to the water at all though, since a lot of people advise against it.

Does your fish have any history of being ill?

Not really, but then again how healthy could he have been in a 0.5 gal tank :s


How old is your fish (approximately)?
I've had him for almost a year now? maybe 10 months more accurately?


I believe I didn't cycle my new tank correctly, or rinse the gravel super well before adding my betta to this 10 gal. I added the dechloranitor and stress coat to the tank and let it run over night and added my betta the next day. It was super active and loved the new space. I then noticed the unusual white on top of the head the next day after and added about a tablespoon and a half of salt to the water. It didn't seem to bother it and it was still actively swimming around and discovering decorations. Since its the third day I'm thinking about doing a 25% or 30% water change but I can't decide if I should wait or not. He seems to be less active than he was the previous two days, or before I tried applying Pimafix to the top of his head with a q-tip. I feel horrible as I should and I just want to give this guy a happy home.

:s I think I should do a water change, but.. how much should I do? Any help and feedback is appreciated, I will try to answer questions that I can.
Ayalah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #2 
AyalaCookiejar
Member
 
AyalaCookiejar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Florida
I would do a 25%-50% water change. Your ammonia needs to be 0. This may be what is causing the red gills. The white spot, I'm not sure... It could be a natural color change but I would watch it closely to make sure it doesn't get fuzzy, as this is a bad sign. Watch his behavior and see if he perks up after a partial water change.

Edit: cycling is not instant. It takes more than a month to cycle, so until your tank is cycled you will need to keep up with the water changes and watch those live plants. If they start to brown or die they will cause ammonia spikes. I would also test your tap for ammonia.
AyalaCookiejar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 01:10 PM   #3 
Ayalah
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by AyalaCookiejar View Post
I would do a 25%-50% water change. Your ammonia needs to be 0. This may be what is causing the red gills. The white spot, I'm not sure... It could be a natural color change but I would watch it closely to make sure it doesn't get fuzzy, as this is a bad sign. Watch his behavior and see if he perks up after a partial water change.

Edit: cycling is not instant. It takes more than a month to cycle, so until your tank is cycled you will need to keep up with the water changes and watch those live plants. If they start to brown or die they will cause ammonia spikes. I would also test your tap for ammonia.
Thank you for your fast reply. Yeah I figured that the ammonia burn was the gills, but I can't tell whats going on with the head? not progress has happened with the head besides me noticing that a single black scale came off o_o

I will be changing the water shortly in any case. and yeah, I was being too excited about upgrading him I didn't give it proper time ._. I thought it would be better at least in there than the 0.5 gal hes been in for a long while.. but shame on me and now hes suffering for it. All I can do is try to correct mistakes now though :s thanks again
Ayalah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 01:35 PM   #4 
callistra
Member
 
callistra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Just let me clarify.. he's only been 3 days in a 10g? Your gravel will take up 1-2g. There's no way 8-9g of new water shouldn't be showing anything in ammonia, nitrite and nitrates yet.. Definitely get yourself a drops kit for all three. You'll want a weekly 50% water change including using a gravel vac/siphon. In addition to that you'll need to do a 50% water change any time you see ammonia or nitrites hit as little as .25ppm. You'll see a spike in ammonia first then a spike in nitrates. Ammonia will fall to zero first and then nitrites and you'll be left with only nitrates which should stay under 20ppm by just one 50% weekly change including vac. Cycling can take up to 2 months to complete. http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838

I'm not really sure why you have a star by your tank temp.. what heater are you using and how are you monitoring temp?

That gill coloration is sometimes normal for some fish.. I've seen it a lot on blue fish so that may be ok. Otherwise some say that velvet infested gills can look like that. In advanced cases of Velvet their scales can fall off and appear to have a balding head. The start of columnaris also looks like that. Is anything fuzzy? Is there anything rough he could have rubbed his head on? When you shine a flashlight on him does it look like he's dusted in gold/copper?

How much dechlorinator and stress coat did you add? All you need is the stress coat unless you're dosing with prime to help with the cycle.

Salt can't be used with live plants and you can only use it 10 days max. Several large water changes are now needed to remove it.

If you didn't rinse your gravel well enough you can fix it by doing several 50% water changes over the next 2-4 days to remove the dust. Is the tank cloudy? I can't see that. It sounds like between the salt and not having rinsed things well you will need to do many water changes.

I suggest prefiltering your filter so he can't be hurt by the intake. Also is it baffled? How is he handling the flow? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ords=prefilter

Last edited by callistra; 01-13-2013 at 01:39 PM.
callistra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 01:57 PM   #5 
Ayalah
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by callistra View Post
Just let me clarify.. he's only been 3 days in a 10g? Your gravel will take up 1-2g. There's no way 8-9g of new water shouldn't be showing anything in ammonia, nitrite and nitrates yet.. Definitely get yourself a drops kit for all three. You'll want a weekly 50% water change including using a gravel vac/siphon. In addition to that you'll need to do a 50% water change any time you see ammonia or nitrites hit as little as .25ppm. You'll see a spike in ammonia first then a spike in nitrates. Ammonia will fall to zero first and then nitrites and you'll be left with only nitrates which should stay under 20ppm by just one 50% weekly change including vac. Cycling can take up to 2 months to complete. http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838

I'm not really sure why you have a star by your tank temp.. what heater are you using and how are you monitoring temp?

That gill coloration is sometimes normal for some fish.. I've seen it a lot on blue fish so that may be ok. Otherwise some say that velvet infested gills can look like that. In advanced cases of Velvet their scales can fall off and appear to have a balding head. The start of columnaris also looks like that. Is anything fuzzy? Is there anything rough he could have rubbed his head on? When you shine a flashlight on him does it look like he's dusted in gold/copper?

How much dechlorinator and stress coat did you add? All you need is the stress coat unless you're dosing with prime to help with the cycle.

Salt can't be used with live plants and you can only use it 10 days max. Several large water changes are now needed to remove it.

If you didn't rinse your gravel well enough you can fix it by doing several 50% water changes over the next 2-4 days to remove the dust. Is the tank cloudy? I can't see that. It sounds like between the salt and not having rinsed things well you will need to do many water changes.

I suggest prefiltering your filter so he can't be hurt by the intake. Also is it baffled? How is he handling the flow? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ords=prefilter
Yes hes been in the 10g tank for 3 days only. The test strips seem inaccurate but based on the colors, thats how it looks like. And I meant 78 degrees but I didn't have the degree symbol. I have a tetra ht10 heater that says it goes from 78-80 only, I'm not sure if its good or not as I'm getting a thermo sometime tomorrow. The betta is also upstairs where it stays pretty warm. The tank doesn't seem cloudy. As for the filter I did a method with a water bottle cupped underneath it to reduce the flow of the filter since he was being pushed around with it. He seems to handle the modified flow a lot better than the original. The tank came with a sample for a 10g tank, I added the whole thing since it was directed for both specifically for a 10g tank. Looking back at the actual packages, I added stress coat and stress zyme.

I just did the flashlight thing, the white discoloration has a teeny speck of gold looky thing, ugh >__< What is it and what should I do now :s The only thing he could have rubbed his head on is his rock decoration or his bridge? I'm performing a water change right now as well.



thank you so much for your help!
Ayalah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 02:06 PM   #6 
callistra
Member
 
callistra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
It's very important never to use a heater without an in tank thermometer to monitor the temperature, especially when you're using those preset things. It's also very important to run any new heaters for 24 hours with thermometer and similar sized container to make sure they will hold a constant appropriate heat with no dips. Get the thermometer asap. That's not a great heater. Hopefully it is working properly.

You also need to acclimate your betta to the higher temp very slowly and carefully.. how did you do this?

It looks like from your tank you have a lot of hard plastic plants on your decor. Have you tested them all with panty hose (drag through thoroughly and also across all decor) to make sure they won't snag? Anything that snags will need to be removed. Decor can be sanded with fresh sand paper from the store that's never been used for anything else but the plastic plants have got to go if they're catching

Also I see some of your plants are melting.. What plants did you put in there? The melting/rotting ones need to be removed. They could have caused an ammonia spike. What lighting do you have on the tank?

How much stress coat and stress zyme did you add?

Here are some examples of Velvet to compare: http://bettatude.com/Misc/buck-velvet-macro.jpg
http://media.beta.photobucket.com/us...rimary]=images
http://www.petfish.net/articles/pix/arts3/velvet.jpg
http://www.bettafish.com/attachment....3&d=1315280143
Last one is super advanced

Last edited by callistra; 01-13-2013 at 02:09 PM.
callistra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #7 
Ayalah
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by callistra View Post
It's very important never to use a heater without an in tank thermometer to monitor the temperature, especially when you're using those preset things. It's also very important to run any new heaters for 24 hours with thermometer and similar sized container to make sure they will hold a constant appropriate heat with no dips. Get the thermometer asap. That's not a great heater. Hopefully it is working properly.

You also need to acclimate your betta to the higher temp very slowly and carefully.. how did you do this?

It looks like from your tank you have a lot of hard plastic plants on your decor. Have you tested them all with panty hose (drag through thoroughly and also across all decor) to make sure they won't snag? Anything that snags will need to be removed. Decor can be sanded with fresh sand paper from the store that's never been used for anything else but the plastic plants have got to go if they're catching

Also I see some of your plants are melting.. What plants did you put in there? The melting/rotting ones need to be removed. They could have caused an ammonia spike. What lighting do you have on the tank?

How much stress coat and stress zyme did you add?

Here are some examples of Velvet to compare: http://bettatude.com/Misc/buck-velvet-macro.jpg
http://media.beta.photobucket.com/us...rimary]=images
http://www.petfish.net/articles/pix/arts3/velvet.jpg
http://www.bettafish.com/attachment....3&d=1315280143
Last one is super advanced
When placing the heater, the only thing I did was placed it horizontally on the bottom of the sand, let it sit there for an hour and a half at then turned it on :s

I put anubias and wisteria, as well as some betta bulbs. they all looked like that the day I got it so I'm nto sure ._. as for lighting I have aqua-glo 15 w t8 18,000k

and I'm pretty sure its velvet.. it has a like one or two tiny gold coppery looks to it, and its very teeny and on the discoloration of the top of the head only. as for now I decided to take all the decor and plants out as I don't know which plants are good to keep or not and.. now its basically filtering through the tank with a 40% water change. what should my next step be?
Ayalah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 02:27 PM   #8 
callistra
Member
 
callistra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
you need at least 2w per gallon so at least 18w+.

wisteria is a stem plant. It needs dirt or some kind of rich substrate. It isn't going to grow in regular aquarium gravel. It also requires a moderate amount of lighting at 2-3w per gallon so 18w-27w of something in the 6500-1000k range. You don't have the lighting or the substrate for that plant. Sorry.

The anubias cannot be buried in the gravel. The rhizome must be above the substrate. It also does best in at least 2 watts per gallon.
----------

At this point I would remove the live plants and test the ornaments. He needs some kind of protection not to feel stressed, especially in something so big. Some soft oversized silk plants (test them) would be a good idea and some kind of soft cave of some sort with wide holes he can't get stuck in. Make sure to rinse off everything very well before adding. Everything that enters your tank should always be rinsed well before adding it to make sure you're not adding something in that could be harmful.

I would go right now and get a tank thermometer and test your water and get that stabilized. If it looks okay then leave the thermometer in the water and make sure it stays stable.

I would do 50% water changes in the main tank daily for the next several days. I would treat using the sticky for Velvet: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=73332 I'm pretty sure PP doesn't work for Velvet despite the sticky, only ick. IDK why it says that. I would use Salt, increase heat to 85F and I would treat by floating a bare bottom 2g acrylic bowl filled 1/2 full in the main tank. I would use a largish silk plant for comfort and do 100% daily water changes in it along with redosing of the salt. It's all in the sticky. If you can't increase heat then you're going to have to use a copper based med. It's also helpful to keep the tank covered as Velvet supposedly needs light to survive.

Last edited by callistra; 01-13-2013 at 02:37 PM.
callistra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #9 
Ayalah
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by callistra View Post
you need at least 2w per gallon so at least 18w+.

wisteria is a stem plant. It needs dirt or some kind of rich substrate. It isn't going to grow in regular aquarium gravel. It also requires a moderate amount of lighting at 2-3w per gallon so 18w-27w of something in the 6500-1000k range. You don't have the lighting or the substrate for that plant. Sorry.

The anubias cannot be buried in the gravel. The rhizome must be above the substrate. It also does best in at least 2 watts per gallon.
Its alright, I was kind of finding that out after I started researching more about lights. My main concern is the fish at the moment and what I can do to prevent it further getting sick or more gold speckles across it. All I have is meth blue and pimafix on hand :s
Ayalah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 02:38 PM   #10 
Ramla
Member
 
Ramla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: North Dakota
Best thing I've found for anubias is to get a lava rock and using some unflavored and unwaxed dental floss to keep the plant attached to it until the roots take hold of the rock itself. And then you can bury the rock into the gravel substrate while keeping the main part above the substrate, this also ends up allowing the roots to branch into the gravel a little, but also makes it easy for when you want to move the plant. You just have to move the rock that it is already attached to and then you are not always uprooting it when you need to do maintenance or are rearranging
Ramla is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What to do with 5-gallon cycled tank after betta is moved to a hospital tank? TigerRegalia Betta Fish Bowls, Habitats, and Accessories 21 12-11-2012 05:09 PM
Just added some new fish to community tank. BettA is in breeder tank. How long to + DizzyJenny Betta Fish Compatibility 5 09-12-2012 11:52 PM
Advice needed for betta tank mates and plants in a 36 gallon tank. Pilot00 Betta Fish Compatibility 10 07-29-2012 03:37 PM
Betta w/ Mollies? How established should the tank be befor introducing the Betta govou Betta Fish Care 10 12-21-2009 11:28 AM
1 gallon tank + 1 happy betta - good for the budget betta buyer! BabblingFish Betta Fish Bowls, Habitats, and Accessories 10 08-19-2009 06:42 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.