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Old 01-23-2013, 05:49 PM   #11 
MattsBettas
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Warm up your tank! At least 83-84 while treating!
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:54 PM   #12 
n9qiy
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I did move Gunny to his own tank for now. He is in a 1.5 gal I have a filter going and I do water changes every 3 days. and he is just today starting to eat again I have him some blood worms and he did eat. By the way does stress cause him to not want to move much? I am not sure. also the 6.6gal is cycled and the cory cat is a half inch long full grown.

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Old 01-25-2013, 10:26 PM   #13 
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I am glad he is eating again!!!I don't think that Gunny don't move because it a stress. He is like that because he is sick. For 1.5galli would not recommend to use filter. And because he is sick it really better to take it out. Too much water movement will stress him out. How much water changes you doing? How about his body , is he still has a lot of white patches? How is his breathing , still hard and rapid?
Try to do daily water changes and aquarium salt. If you can't find aquarium salt at least do daily water changes.Salt supposed to really help. And if it really ext parasites daily water changes will help a lot. Wash and dry out completely all equipment after each use. And if you will do 100% water changes start with 50% since you never did 100% for him before. You don't want to shock him with sudden difference. And if you will do 100% don't forget to acclimate him to the new water slowly. Let us know if you need acclimation and salt treatment instructions. Good luck.




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Old 01-25-2013, 10:27 PM   #14 
dramaqueen
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I'm moving this to the disease section. We'll get more responses that way.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:44 PM   #15 
n9qiy
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I can use all the help I can get with anything about the betta's. By the way should I disinfect the tank before I return him to it the 1.5gal I mean?


ps I am using the API Master Water Testing Kit

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Old 01-25-2013, 10:45 PM   #16 
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The ick and rot were due to water quality issues from not changing the water enough and severe overstocking

There is no point in filtering a bowl of that size. It will only cause stress. You also need to be doing daily 100% changes in something this small, or at least 50% 100% alternating... how are you keeping it warm? That's the most important thing..

Actually the most effective treatment for ick is simply clean water and heat.. 86-88F for at least 2 weeks and one week past the last sign of ick. Fish must be acclimated to this very slowly at no more than one degree per hour and 5 degrees per day to avoid stress and/or shock. You can add aquarium salt at 1 tsp per gallon predissolved but you don't need to.

The smallest of corys require 10g.. some require much larger. What species do you have? Neon tetras require a 10g and should be kept in schools of no less than 5. You need to upgrade your tank or rehome the other fish.

Your 6.6g tank is not cycled if you have ammonia. What are your nitrite and nitrate readings? You needed to be doing weekly 50% water changes with siphon in something of that size, once it is fully cycled. Cycling can take up to two months and during that time a daily test for ammonia and nitrite and do a 50% change any time you see either. First ammonia will spike, then nitrite. Ammonia will stick to 0 first, then nitrite leaving you with only nitrates. The weekly change described above should keep them <20ppm. http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838 Your readings are suggesting it has barely even begun to cycle.

Here's how to do large water changes in your QT without shocking:

Quote:
In the 50% I would suck through the gravel with a turkey baster to remove poop and half the water. I would refill it with same temp water (use tank thermometer to match running tap water) that already had conditioner added to it. I use 1 gallon water jugs like you can buy at the grocery store - rinse thoroughly before using with hot water but not soap or chems).

For the 100% he'll need to be removed. I would cup in an opaque plastic solo type cup and wrap a towel for heat. Thoroughly rinse the tank, gravel and decor but don't use soap or chems. Refill with same temp water, add conditioner, stir it up a bit then float him in the bowl an hour while slowly adding a couple tablespoons of new water to his cup every 10 minutes. Finally release, keeping as much of the old water in the cup as possible. He shouldn't show any signs of shock this way.

Last edited by callistra; 01-25-2013 at 10:47 PM.
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