Parasite???

[AngryCuttlefish]

It's a very small, almost clear string as described in the picture above. It appeared out of no where. I don't feed live food, I have an unheated 2.5 gallon tank. I'm currently treating him for fin rot, and feed him regularly. Chemical levels are unknown.

[MyRainbowBettaFish]

Originally Posted by AngryCuttlefish

It's a very small, almost clear string as described in the picture above. It appeared out of no where. I don't feed live food, I have an unheated 2.5 gallon tank. I'm currently treating him for fin rot, and feed him regularly. Chemical levels are unknown.

this might be gill fluke, a dangerous disease that looks like hooked worms...

[callistra]

Flukes are microscopic actually..

Can you please take photos? Sounds like maybe slime coat shed.

Also more info would be helpful: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=49233

[AngryCuttlefish]

It was too small, and he wouldn't stay still, but it's gone now. Thank you very much, that may have been it.

[callistra]

Slime coat shed is indicative of water quality issues or illness. Please fill out the info in the link so we can help you.

[AngryCuttlefish]

The only information I can give you is that above and:: I change once a week, 100% as it doesn't have a filter. I feed him Aqueon Betta Food (4 pellets a day). He doesn't look any different than normal (besides the fin rot). I've been giving him API MelaFix to treat his fin rot.

[callistra]

Do not use melafix. It coats their labrynth organ and cause them to suffocate. You need to do a 100% change to remove it.

Fin rot is caused by water quality issues, just like the slime coat shed can be. I would add an extra 50% change mid week from now on. Also while he is healing from fin rot I would do 50% changes every day or at least every other day along with the weekly 100% change. Otherwise I would do aquarium salt predissolved at 1 tsp per gallon for the rot. You only add more salt with a water change and then only add as much salt as water you change. You can do this for up to 10 days. If that doesn't work and it seems to keep progressing despite the salt you can try an antibiotic like Kanplex, Triple Sulfa or Furan 2.

He also needs a heater and an intank thermometer to monitor temp. you can get a 25w adjustable heater like Marineland Visitherm or Jager, which would be ideal. You also have to use an in tank thermometer with the heater to make sure it is working and set it properly (don't rely on the heater). I also highly suggest testing your heater for 24 hours with thermometer in similar size container to make sure it will hold an appropriate constant temperature. Once you are sure it is working your betta must be acclimated to warmer water slowly at no more than 1 degree per hour and 5 degrees per day, or floating in a plastic cup (solo type) in the bowl for an hour, after the water has already been fully warmed.

[AngryCuttlefish]

Thank you very much, I actually put in the salt already, I'll look for a heater and treat him the way you suggested C:

[breeglet]

Tetra also makes a heater that is preset to 78 degrees +/- 2; the HT10 model. I like it for my little drum bowl, it's small enough to fit and is pretty good at keeping a constant temperature if the tank has a lid (or saran wrap with a hole or two poked in). It's not adjustable, but it works considering <5g tanks size limits.