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Old 02-21-2013, 04:08 PM   #11 
jennydlee
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I would take the bloodworms out now ... looks like your ammonia is at 5ppm at least, which is the highest your test goes. If you add too much ammonia you'll stall/crash the cycle and it will take longer.
wow 5ppm really?! already?! oh my! D: do you see the pic i included above? i thought it was at .50 at the most :(
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:08 PM   #12 
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thank you for taking your time out of your day to help me!!! appreciate it so much
oh you have worms, then technically not a Fish-less cycle, better check the sticky again and look for dead shrimp and fish food item for more details.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:10 PM   #13 
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oh you have worms, then technically not a Fish-less cycle, better check the sticky again and look for dead shrimp and fish food item for more details.
okay! will do!
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:16 PM   #14 
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from the sticky

"Eventually— several weeks, generally — the ammonia will go down. Once you see nitrites, you will probably notice they skyrocket up extremely fast, even “off the charts” for your test kit. This is completely normal. After that, in a few days, the nitrites will go down and nitrates will appear. "

why does it show that i have some nitrates when there is still ammonia and nitrites? should i remove the meshbag? gah totally confused here
also when water evaporates what water do i replace it with? dechlorinated water (but wouldn't that kill ammonia?) or tap water? (wouldn't that kill the bb?)
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #15 
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"Eventually— several weeks, generally — the ammonia will go down. Once you see nitrites, you will probably notice they skyrocket up extremely fast, even “off the charts” for your test kit. This is completely normal. After that, in a few days, the nitrites will go down and nitrates will appear. "

why does it show that i have some nitrates when there is still ammonia and nitrites? should i remove the meshbag? gah totally confused here
also when water evaporates what water do i replace it with? dechlorinated water (but wouldn't that kill ammonia?) or tap water? (wouldn't that kill the bb?)
i suppose it means you have bacteria but not enough to absorb the ammonia and nitrites and it is in the process of having more bacteria to achieve the equilibrium.

i'd go with tekkguy's suggestions and see if it works
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #16 
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oh you have worms, then technically not a Fish-less cycle, better check the sticky again and look for dead shrimp and fish food item for more details.
Uh ... I'd say a rotting bag of dead worms as an ammonia source still means this is a fish-less cycle. It's just that she's using a different source of ammonia. There are no fish or other live creatures involved!

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why does it show that i have some nitrates when there is still ammonia and nitrites? should i remove the meshbag? gah totally confused here
also when water evaporates what water do i replace it with? dechlorinated water (but wouldn't that kill ammonia?) or tap water? (wouldn't that kill the bb?)
Ammonia is consumed by bacteria, and they expel nitrites. The nitrites are then consumed, and they expel nitrates. Nitrates must be removed by water changes or plants. This is the nitrogen cycle in a nutshell. It's not a 100%, all or nothing thing. While cycling, you'll see some of all three. Later, you'll want ammonia and nitrites at 0ppm, while nitrates will depend on your water changes and/or plants.

If your water evaporates, top off with dechlorinated water. Do NOT use tap water, or you are correct - you will kill the bb. You will know your cycle is complete when you have only nitrates left, and any additional ammonia added is consumed in 24 hours. Then you'll want to do a large (like 90%) water change to remove the nitrates - unless you have live plants.

If your ammonia looks to you like the .50ppm color, leave the worms ... I'm looking at a photo and not the real thing!
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:08 PM   #17 
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Uh ... I'd say a rotting bag of dead worms as an ammonia source still means this is a fish-less cycle. It's just that she's using a different source of ammonia. There are no fish or other live creatures involved!



Ammonia is consumed by bacteria, and they expel nitrites. The nitrites are then consumed, and they expel nitrates. Nitrates must be removed by water changes or plants. This is the nitrogen cycle in a nutshell. It's not a 100%, all or nothing thing. While cycling, you'll see some of all three. Later, you'll want ammonia and nitrites at 0ppm, while nitrates will depend on your water changes and/or plants.

If your water evaporates, top off with dechlorinated water. Do NOT use tap water, or you are correct - you will kill the bb. You will know your cycle is complete when you have only nitrates left, and any additional ammonia added is consumed in 24 hours. Then you'll want to do a large (like 90%) water change to remove the nitrates - unless you have live plants.

If your ammonia looks to you like the .50ppm color, leave the worms ... I'm looking at a photo and not the real thing!
ah please forgive me! i didn't take in consideration that everyone's lighting is different so the picture's colors would also appear to be different :(
i just took them to match my lighting and colors..

okay i will use dechlorinated water to top off the evaporation

do i leave the worms in there until there are only nitrates showing?

i have live plants

sorry if what i'm having trouble with is a very obvious or easy thing to do
i'm kind of derp
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:21 PM   #18 
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ah please forgive me! i didn't take in consideration that everyone's lighting is different so the picture's colors would also appear to be different :(
i just took them to match my lighting and colors..

okay i will use dechlorinated water to top off the evaporation

do i leave the worms in there until there are only nitrates showing?

i have live plants

sorry if what i'm having trouble with is a very obvious or easy thing to do
i'm kind of derp
I would take the worms out as soon as you get around the 4ppm mark on your tests ... if it ever gets that high. You really don't want it to go higher than that. I cycled with a raw shrimp instead of dosing ammonia (very similar to what you're doing) and let the ammonia get way too high ... my cycle took FOREVER!

If the ammonia goes DOWN at any point, you can probably take them out, as they are no longer contributing anything above what the established bacteria can assimilate ... in other words, your cycle is completing.

Can you take a picture of the tank to share with us?
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #19 
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will do tekkguy! thank you SO much
and of course!
it's very plain and not very pretty looking
a lot of the plants that require low maintenance are always sold out at petco/petsmart! i think i'm gonna have to order some. i really want floaters so my betta can rest in them
here's a pic


i have the lid a bit tilted because the filter that came with this tank was broken and my new filter doesn't fit..
it's a marineland half moon 10 gallon

i really want to cover the heater with some plants in the future
i also need to baffle the filter.. it's a penguin power filter 100

oh! and i remember when i first put in the meshbag it was filled all the way with the bloodworms. now they're all decayed and gross.. yuck! haha

Last edited by jennydlee; 02-21-2013 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:08 PM   #20 
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I love those 10 gallon half moons. those plants are going to look great when they start getting taller!

I would suggest that you move the thermometer to the other side of the tank, or move the heater to the other side ... next to each other, the thermometer won't be as reliable - when the heater is on, it will spike up higher. A tall piece of driftwood would look great standing up on the heater side, and then a java fern or anubias could be tied to it to help hide the heater!

Those moss balls carry a lot of bacteria with them ... and if you bought that driftwood already sunk from the pet store, it probably does too. Not a surprise you're already seeing nitrates!
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