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Old 03-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #11 
callistra
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Cycling takes up to 2 months and during this time you should be testing daily for ammonia and nitrite and doing an extra 50% change any time either show up. In addition to this a regular 50% weekly change with siphon is needed. First you will see ammonia spike, then you will see nitrites. Eventually, even after a week of no water changes ammonia will stay at 0, then finally nitrites. At this point you should be left with only nitrates, which should be kept <20ppm and the lower the betta by the once weekly change with siphon.

So.. if your pet store will test like this and give you actual numbers, I guess you can get away with free tests. Getting fin rot is common during cycling without all this constant monitoring
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:22 PM   #12 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by callistra View Post
Cycling takes up to 2 months and during this time you should be testing daily for ammonia and nitrite and doing an extra 50% change any time either show up. In addition to this a regular 50% weekly change with siphon is needed. First you will see ammonia spike, then you will see nitrites. Eventually, even after a week of no water changes ammonia will stay at 0, then finally nitrites. At this point you should be left with only nitrates, which should be kept <20ppm and the lower the betta by the once weekly change with siphon.

So.. if your pet store will test like this and give you actual numbers, I guess you can get away with free tests. Getting fin rot is common during cycling without all this constant monitoring

I guess i should of added i had a bunch of gravel from an established cycled tank, best i can do at this time is weekly test.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:24 PM   #13 
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It will cut down the cycling time, but it won't be an instant cycle.

If that's the case then just be aware he is at a high risk for fin rot and you may need to stop cycling, QT and treat him.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:25 PM   #14 
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whats melty? Sorry i i missed it lol
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:27 PM   #15 
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i could always move him to a 2 gal till my cycles complete?

Is there anything i should add to the water, a stress thing(to get technical on you, lol) or anything else?
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:30 PM   #16 
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You need him to cycle the tank, or else you will need to keep feeding a source of ammonia. Some people add fish food but it's messy and will require more work and isn't as accurate and you still need to be able to test with numbers. You can very accurately use ACE Pure Ammonia and an eye dropper.. but again you need to test.

All this is going to be more expensive than just getting test kits, which will run you $15-$30. You could also just try increasing water changes to twice weekly 50% with siphon, but if his fins get worse you will have to remove him.

Fin melt is a condition where the fins look kind of stuck together, bunchy or melted a little bit. It is entirely a condition of water quality issues.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:33 PM   #17 
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I'll go have my water tested an get the exact numbers, He's due for a water change so should i change his water then test or befroe and after?
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:34 PM   #18 
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Test before. Based on that test I can tell you how much extra water you may need to change. That'll be more help.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:56 PM   #19 
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alrighty! On my way to have my water tested.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:38 PM   #20 
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HOLY AMMONIA! its 5.0 and my PH is 7.9 (it;s always been like this, i was told since its been like this from the jump thats not the issue, fish is use to this) Is this true?

I also got some live luta plant. The guy there told me i didnt have to QT it it;s in a tank with plant only.

So whats my next move? 50% water change with some bettafix ,along with aqausafe plus. like always. anything else?
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