Breeding equipment needed:
Breeding tank - anywhere from 3-10 gallons, can be glass or plastic bin that is food grade quality.
Grow out tank(s) - ideally I recommend having two, so you can split up a spawn if it is large or need more space. I personally recommend no less than 29g for at least one.. and the second I would recommend no less than 20g long. A few other large grow outs would come in handy, as just having one or two means you will only have one spawn at a time and must sell/cull all the fish before you have another spawn needing the grow outs. You will always have fish left over.. so some breeders will use large tanks (55g+) to use as a large sorority to keep some of the females they are wanting to sell/breed/grow.
A couple smaller tanks to condition the adults.. something easily moveable and heatable.
Heaters for all of the tanks/bins, drip system. Keep in mind for larger tanks you will need higher watt heaters such as 100w+. Make sure they are adjustable so you can control how warm the water is for the fry/juveniles. A spare one in case one malfunctions.
Live plants and IAL are not mandatory, but are highly recommended - IAL creates the tannin the fish love, helps keep fungus off the eggs along with other health benefits. It can make a difference with some spawns. Live plants will provide food for the first few days of the fry's life. It also helps maintain water quality and puts oxygen into the tank for the fry.
Glass canopy or seran wrap, plastic painter's tarp, hood/light - will need something to keep the humidity in the tank, especially once they get about 6+ weeks of age and their labyrinth are starting to develop. A hood and light will also help keep drafts away and give them light.
Sponge filters - I use smaller ones for the fry tank and larger ones for the grow out tanks.
Air pump - a minimum of 4 pronges, if not more. Could use a T to divide a smaller one - but need air for breeding tank, grow out tanks and for two BBS hatcheries.
Lots of airline tubing for both the filters and for water changes. T splits and air control valves to make the airflow into the filter minimal when needed.
BBS hatcheries, at least two of them - can use old 2L bottles.
Cups/jars, lots of them, minimum of 32oz. I recommend a minimum of a 100 - you will be holding fish in there for a while as they grow until sellable size/age. You will still have some in them when you have other spawns going. So will need LOTS of space to hold all those jars/cups and a way to make sure they are all heated. A lot of breeders have rooms set up just for breeding and will use ceramic space heaters to keep them warm. Have to keep them warm..
Shelving units and tank stands
Some of the smaller stuff needed includes:
Multiple nets - small, shrimp and medium size
Large water siphoning tube
Thermometers for all tanks and a few spare ones to keep track of jar temps and in case one is broken.
Medicine for fungus, internal/external bacteria, AQ salt, Epsom Salt
Extra water conditioner - I buy the large Prime bottle which will last about 6-8 months
Eye droppers, turkey basters, q-tips, rubber bands
Small cups - some extra cups the fish come in, I also use a lot of the small styrofoam cups when feeding - whether for BBS or non live foods. Will place some tank water into the cup, then put in the dry food (such as golden pearls) or frozen food and mix it in the water then pour into the tank.. that way I make sure a lot of the food goes into the water column rather than just floating on top.
I personally use coffee filters when feeding BBS. I place a coffee filter over a small styrofoam cup held on by a rubber band, use a turkey baster to collect the BBS and put it in the coffee filter. Once the water has drained into the cup I will use a bit of tank water to rinse the BBS off.
Power strips for extra plugs.
Buckets for water changes
Buckets for creating drip system - can use other large items as long as you can safely use a heater in it.
Food for all ages.. most of these you will need to get online - a lot of breeders will sell the cultures for around $5 each.
Cultures - I prefer Banana and Walter worms, but vinegar eels and micro worms are also popular. You will need plan oatmeal and yeast to create the food source for the cultures. Will also need smaller tupperware to hold the food in.
BBS - it is expensive, but if kept in the fridge/freezer the can will last a very long time.
Frozen bloodworms are great for conditioning the adults and feeding juveniles.
Good quality pellet type food for both adults and will need juvenile size. I love Golden Pearls - I have all the sizes available, and all my fish go nuts for it. For a bit bigger juveniles NLS Growth formula is a good choice.
Repashy Meat is also awesome for juveniles.
Live foods such as grindal worms, mosquito larvae, etc are great for adults and juveniles.
Keep in mind you will be feeding the fry at least three times a day so lots of food will be used. You will need food for all stages of growth.
All in all expect to spend a few hundred dollars to set up at the minimum. If you can get tanks used it will be cheaper, or if you use tubs - personally I would go with glass tanks for your first few spawns so you can see/watch them better. Look for deformities, fighting, etc.. will be hard in tubs if you don't know what to look for at the beginning.. once you are more experienced and know what to look for then tubs will be easier to use. You can use clear tubs with the same results, but a solid, darker colored tub I would hold off on until you are more experieneced. Also keep in mind shipping costs - some things you will need to purchase online and shipping will add up.
I'm sure I missed things.. but this is the general idea of what is needed. Everyone does things a little differently, but these are some of the items I personally use.