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Old 04-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #11 
RussellTheShihTzu
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SeaChem Stability

Okay, I'm gonna jump right in. I know a lot of people think such additives are pure bunk but it worked for me.

I used SeaChem Stability after my 5-gallon tanks had been cycling for less than two weeks. You do a full dose on day one and a half dose for six or seven days thereafter.

Within that time, the parameters stabilized and have remained stable for almost three months. I haven't redosed as directions say you can.

I have one Betta and 15 shrimp in each tank. I do partial water changes once or twice a week of about 10% (shrimp are easily shocked so I keep the changes small). The only additives in my tank are SeaChem Flourish and Excel (half-dose because of the shrimp) and Prime when I change water.

Hokum or not, I will use Stability with each new tank.

Last edited by RussellTheShihTzu; 04-28-2013 at 11:26 PM. Reason: Forgot: It's optional to redose the Stability; I haven't.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:34 PM   #12 
sareena79
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Im on day 11 of a fish in cycle...been doing partial water changes every 2-3 days or so and testing diligently. my numbers are a little wonky too. ima test my tap water and see if thats the culprit.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #13 
bettaluver14
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Yah i got no idea what is going on!!!...?
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:31 AM   #14 
Tikibirds
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I would of given up by now and gone with the fish-in cycle, al of mine were done with a betta in the tank
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:42 AM   #15 
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You could also try the Stability which is as low as $5.00 (free shipping) on eBay or $8.99 at PetSmart.

I did a fish-in cycle on both tanks.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:12 AM   #16 
sareena79
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ok so my tap water is basicly the same as my tank water that I have been tryin to cycle for about 2wks now????
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:29 AM   #17 
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Not really. Your tap water has no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate (Safe Water Drinking Act regulates them). You are trying to build a beneficial bacteria (BB) bed for your fish.

To put it simply, cycling is finished when there's enough BB to neutralize ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. If you have a friend who has an established aquarium, you could get some gravel from them to help speed up the cycling by using their BB. Or, your LFS or pet store might let you have some.

It is very frustrating, I know. Good luck and don't give up; two weeks isn't that long. If you Google general concensus is four to eight weeks average.

Have you read the Stickies on cycling? The authors explain the hows and whys so well.

Last edited by RussellTheShihTzu; 04-30-2013 at 03:37 AM. Reason: Forgot to Add:
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:07 PM   #18 
Tikibirds
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It is possible to have ammonia in tap water. Mine does. It always reads .25 straight out of the sink.

Not sure if this would make a difference but are you using prime as a conditioner? It does something to detoxify ammonia, nitrites and nitrates but I dont know if that makes any difference to the cycle or not. Or if it messes with the test results.

Cycling can take a while. I have heard some people say it took over 2 months for them. I dont now about the fishless cycle but for the fish in - you dont want to do too many water changes because you need some of the ammonia and nitrItes for the bacteria. On the other hand, you don't want to let their levels get to high either.

Quote:
5gal-10gal filtered without live plants:
Water changes of twice weekly for the next 4-6 weeks
Of... 1-50% water only and 1-50% with vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots.
*The 50% with vacuum will be the water change schedule for the life of the system to maintain water quality once the nitrogen cycle has established.
Filter media needs swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of time a month

*If you have water test kit-base the water only change on: ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater.
With a low bioload often you don't need the second water only-I always recommend it when you don't have test kit to err on the side of caution...its the safety net....
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771

Fishless cycle
Quote:
Process:
This method is where the pure ammonia and the 5mm syringe come into play. Basically you want to dose at 2-5ppm ammonia initially. Ammonia should never be higher than 7ppm, this can stall your cycle. Test for ammonia and nitrite every 2-3 days. Replenish ammonia to original levels as you see it fall down. This is considered the longest part of the cycle process.

Once you see nitrites, you will probably notice they skyrocket up extremely fast, even “off the charts” for your test kit. This is fine and completely normal. Keep dosing ammonia to the required amount. Once nitrites have peaked, it is generally only a few days before they get back down to zero. When you see nitrites going down, start testing for nitrates, which should start appearing.

For your final test, wait until your ammonia is pretty much at zero, and dose to 2ppm. When ammonia falls to 0ppm within 24 hours (or less) your tank is cycled!
Now, do a large water change, 75-85%, and you are ready to add your fish!

Last edited by Tikibirds; 04-30-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:49 PM   #19 
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Quote:
It is possible to have ammonia in tap water. Mine does. It always reads .25 straight out of the sink.

Not sure if this would make a difference but are you using prime as a conditioner? It does something to detoxify ammonia, nitrites and nitrates but I dont know if that makes any difference to the cycle or not. Or if it messes with the test results.

Cycling can take a while. I have heard some people say it took over 2 months for them. I dont now about the fishless cycle but for the fish in - you dont want to do too many water changes because you need some of the ammonia and nitrItes for the bacteria. On the other hand, you don't want to let their levels get to high either.
yeah Im using prime and thanks for all the info ;) good to know!
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:56 PM   #20 
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Yup, my tap water has ammonia and nitrates in it.

How long after water changes do you wait to test your water again?
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