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Old 05-10-2013, 02:58 PM   #11 
LittleBlueFishlets
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Hi Joe,

All of my bettas live alone. Each is housed in a separate 12 L (3 gal) tank. So I don't have experience on how they do with other fish. I think that lilnaugrim answered some of your questions, but I suggest starting a thread in the Betta Fish Compatibility forum. There are a lot of people there with a lot of knowledge about what other fish work well with bettas, and their tank size and stocking requirements. Here's a link to that forum: http://www.bettafish.com/forumdisplay.php?f=102

Last edited by LittleBlueFishlets; 05-10-2013 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #12 
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Lol your idea for putting in one fish from each class is definitely a cool idea though! Have to admit that at least, but yeah I don't think it's really doable without having someone stressed and not feelin' very good :)

There's a few things that could be happening with the swords but I'm not knowledgeable enough in them to really give advice so I think posting in the disease section would be good for that, getting some pictures will help too for those commenting.

Angels need taller tanks because their bodies grow more upwards than outwards, if that makes sense. They don't swim fast and don't really care to much for swimming the length of the tank but actually prefer more space above and below. I mean, yes they appreciate the length space but taller is best for them since their top fins and bottom fins are the ones that are going to get really big and the rest of him will get about 6 inches in length.

I'm sure I could identify your plant if you posted a picture :) I'm pretty good at that stuff at least lol

And as for putting tiger barbs in there, I really don't know much outside of the Tetra/Anabantoid/Catfish range. So posting in the compatibility section like LittleBlueFishlet's suggested would be good :)

As far as managing all my tanks, I have a sort of set schedule that looks a bit like this: Wednesday is small tank cleaning day only so anything under 10 gallons is cleaned with usually a 25% or 50% change. Then Friday or Saturday (depending on my life schedule) I do all tank cleanings, 33 is first with a 20% change and then to the 10, 5.5, 3 and the other 3 gallons are cleaned again. Once you get in the rhythm it goes pretty quickly, I only spend about maybe 4 hours tops on Saturday cleaning, and that's with delays and stuff :)
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:36 PM   #13 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlueFishlets View Post
Hi Joe,

All of my bettas live alone. Each is housed in a separate 12 L (3 gal) tank. So I don't have experience on how they do with other fish. I think that lilnaugrim answered some of your questions, but I suggest starting a thread in the Betta Fish Compatibility forum. There are a lot of people there with a lot of knowledge about what other fish work well with bettas, and their tank size and stocking requirements. Here's a link to that forum: http://www.bettafish.com/forumdisplay.php?f=102
Thank you LBF. I just posted my question.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:55 PM   #14 
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Originally Posted by lilnaugrim View Post
Lol your idea for putting in one fish from each class is definitely a cool idea though! Have to admit that at least, but yeah I don't think it's really doable without having someone stressed and not feelin' very good :)

There's a few things that could be happening with the swords but I'm not knowledgeable enough in them to really give advice so I think posting in the disease section would be good for that, getting some pictures will help too for those commenting.

Angels need taller tanks because their bodies grow more upwards than outwards, if that makes sense. They don't swim fast and don't really care to much for swimming the length of the tank but actually prefer more space above and below. I mean, yes they appreciate the length space but taller is best for them since their top fins and bottom fins are the ones that are going to get really big and the rest of him will get about 6 inches in length.

I'm sure I could identify your plant if you posted a picture :) I'm pretty good at that stuff at least lol

And as for putting tiger barbs in there, I really don't know much outside of the Tetra/Anabantoid/Catfish range. So posting in the compatibility section like LittleBlueFishlet's suggested would be good :)

As far as managing all my tanks, I have a sort of set schedule that looks a bit like this: Wednesday is small tank cleaning day only so anything under 10 gallons is cleaned with usually a 25% or 50% change. Then Friday or Saturday (depending on my life schedule) I do all tank cleanings, 33 is first with a 20% change and then to the 10, 5.5, 3 and the other 3 gallons are cleaned again. Once you get in the rhythm it goes pretty quickly, I only spend about maybe 4 hours tops on Saturday cleaning, and that's with delays and stuff :)

You seem to have a very tight schedule. And yeah, when one gets into a rhythm it's a cake walk. The plant is Amazon Sword. I am yet to plant it. It hasn't arrived as yet at the fish store. I bought a bowl lid for $2 and boy, it was looking very ugly. I would be returning it tomorrow though there is no return/exchange policy.


The shop keeper told me that Amazon Sword doesn't require any fertilizer for it to grow. Is it true? What other plants thrive well without fertilizer? I am naive to planting in aquarium. Could you please help me with the set up?
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #15 
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Ehhh, I disagree with that shop keeper. Amazon swords can get up to about a foot tall, however yes it is a great plant. And yes they can grow without fertilizers but it may die off. I would suggest returning it because of the size it can grow to and it is a heavy root feeder so without root tabs to feed it, it won't grow very well at all.

And no worries about not knowing much about plants and stuff, we all started out this way!

I would suggest you get some sort of Java Fern, there are few different types: regular, narrow leaf and windlov are the most common seen in pet shops. The regular one usually stays smaller and that one doesn't need much to grow, it also doesn't grow fast enough to take over your bow either. So that's a good plant, that's what I got for my 1 gallon way back when and my Betta loved it! Just make sure you don't plant it into the gravel if you get any. It survives well without any gravel/sand/dirt, which makes it a great plant for your bowl.

You could also get an Anubias Bateri, those are also sold at petco/petsmarts in the tubes, I still have mine from half a year ago and it's doing great!

For those plants I mentioned you won't really need to fertilize them, you could get API's LeafZone anyway though just because a little plant food every now and then is good for it and it only takes like a couple drops for the size tank you have :)

For lids, well I'm sure this won't look too much better either, but you could use Saran wrap, pull it tight and tie it in the back of the bowl or the side you see less so it looks nice, or rubber band it. But of course you can only do that as long as you leave about an inch to two inches of air space for your Betta to breathe. You could also poke little holes in it for fresh air exchange :) Hope that helps a bit ^^
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:07 PM   #16 
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You need to feed a more balanced diet than meat. It is good for a treat, then you need to do a major water change after it as it will drive ammonia and nitriate high quick. My fish get beef heart before water changes. I would get a quality pellet and use that as the staple and the meat as a treat before a major w/c.

Some fish just have that coloring in the fins. If there is marble up the genetic pike you can get this and it is ok. But you said nothing about water parameters. Get a good mater test kit and test your water regular, even after a water change. Ammonia. If you have ammonia at 1.0 and do a 50% w/c you still have .5 ammonia and it is toxic. need to know what your water is.

As a breeder I keep fish with no plants. It can be done if water quality is kept pristine. It is up to you. though a spring of something like hornwort can be attractive and look more "homey"
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:41 AM   #17 
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Thank you lilnaugrim and Basement Bettas for you reply. I'll dwell on the plants and the companions for Betta sometime later. For now, I have a bigger thing to worry about.


I just came back from the church only to find my lovely Betta lose its fins. It is in the 1.5Gallon bowl. No other inmates. A drift wood and a thermometer in the bowl. The temperature is 29C. I am very very depressed . I feel like crying . I don't know how this happened. I did a water change couple of days back. The bowl could hold around 6 liters. I added 3 liters of fresh water along with old water(2 liters). I have the picture attached of it. In the beginning of the post last week I had attached a photo of him then. Please please please help me out. I want him back the way he was before. Do I make a major water change, say 1:4, old:fresh or any other proportion that you may suggest.
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:24 AM   #18 
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I made a full water change. Kept the tap water to trickle into the bowl with a half a liter old water. I haven't fed him anything today which is the norm weekly. I feed him with chicken liver, 6 mustard seed size, which he munches merrily. Is it the drift wood that caused him something or what is it? Various talking over the net on this make me go crazy. My best bet is to wait for your folks to reply. One more thing, among all this he is doing well presently.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:06 PM   #19 
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Hi Joe,

Aw, poor guy. Do his fins just look shredded? Do you notice any dark, discolored or "smudged" edges on them?

If there are U-shaped chunks missing, but not dark/discolored edges, this usually indicates tail biting.

I'm going to assume it's tailbiting, unless you tell us that the edges are dark/discolored.... This could be due to lots of reasons. He may be a little warm. (With a water temperature of 29C, you definitely do NOT need a heater!) Or there might be something about his tank, the new driftwood, or his diet, that's bothering him.

So here's what I suggest....

Remove the driftwood for now. (Don't get rid of it. Just take it out of the tank for now.) There may be something in or on it that's bothering him.....

It sounds like you're keeping about 5 L of water in his bowl, so....
  1. Fill a storage jug with water. Add conditioner. Let it sit out overnight so that the temperature is the same as the tank temperature.
  2. Tomorrow (Monday) - Remove about 1 L of water from his bowl.... Add 1 L of new water.
  3. Wait at least 15 minutes. (More time is OK.) Remove about 1 L of water from his bowl.... Add 1 L of new water.
  4. Repeat the above step two more times. (This will give you a total of 4 partial water changes today.)
  5. Refill the storage jug. Add conditioner, and let it sit.
  6. The day after tomorrow (Tuesday) - remove about 50% of water from his bowl. Add about 1-to1.5 L of new water. Wait 15 min. Add another 1-to1.5 L of the new water, so you're back to the original water level.
  7. Repeat the above step every other day (Thursday, Saturday, etc).
This process will remove any toxins in the water. Also, clean water minimizes the risk of infection. So you want to keep doing frequent water changes until his fins heal.

Watch him carefully. As long as the fins remain the same blue color, it's OK. If you see white edges begin to develop, that's indicates new growth, which is good. If you see any dark, discolored or "smudged" edges, that may indicate an infection setting in.

Keep us updated!

Last edited by LittleBlueFishlets; 05-12-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:12 PM   #20 
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Looks like fin rot to me, see how the edges are black and greyish? That's a sign of rot.

You're going to need some Aquarium salt to help get rid of the rot. Since he's in a small tank you can leave him there to medicate him. What I do is 1 teaspoon of dissolved salt per gallon of water, so if you've got a 1.5 than 1.5 teaspoons of dissolved salt will do.

Everyday until that black goes away, you'll need to do a 100% water change to discourage any bacteria that might want to creep it's way onto your Betta. I'm sure there are other's who say 100% isn't necessary but I find it's the easiest to do since you'll be adding more salt in and sometimes it can be hard to judge how much water is left and all. So just 100% change every day.

Each day add in the salt after the water change (Don't just add it in without doing a water change because that can hurt him and won't help in the end.) until you see no more black on his fins, that means the rot has gone away.

After that you just need to keep him in warm, clean water. You can just do 50% change everyday or 100% every other since it is such a small tank. Adding in any StressCoat conditioner will help heal his fins since it has aloe in it.

If something doesn't make sense please ask and I'll try to explain it a little better, I hope he has quick healing!

EDIT: Whoops same time posting with LBF, follow her advice first and see what comes of it!
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