Their care all depends on the species in question. Personally I think wild bettas look and behave at their best in a natural set-up. This means live plants (in a low pH tank you can't cycle so you want live plants to help keep ammonia down), dim lighting, dark coloured substrate, tannins and either natural or artificial hides.
On this forum, the 'average' betta tank seems to include very sparse cover, garish coloured gravel and bright light. So depending on how you normally keep your bettas, it could be quite a change.
I also think wilds do better in species only set-ups, especially if you are serious about breeding.
Wilds will jump. It's not a question of if but of when. People who have only kept splendens don't understand just how small of a gap wilds can and will get through. I use cling film over the tops of all my tanks and very carefully cut around the various cords so that there is not a single gap for my fish to push through. I have lost probably over a dozen fish to jumping, but none since I started doing this.
Some wilds can be incredibly finicky about food. Hardly any of my fish take pellets and so their diet is predominately live/frozen foods. I've found the mouthbrooders seem to be less fussy than the smaller bubblenesters but I did have an albimarginata I bred myself who never touched pellets. Therefore, you may need to have easy access to live foods. I personally feed all my wilds a mix of live blackworms, live white worms, grindals, frozen brine shrimp, frozen bloodworms and live mosquito larvae and live bloodworms in the warmer months. My fish thrive on this diet and regularly spawn.
Tank size can vary quite dramatically from species to species. For example, a pair of coccina complex fish can be kept in 5-10 gallon tanks, while a pair of macrostoma is going to need a tank in 20-30 gallon range.
Some species of wilds, especially if they are captive bred, are not to be as fussy as others when it comes to 'correct' water parameters. The coccina complex is probably the most demanding, although there are perhaps a handful of mouthbrooding species that also have a requirement for soft, acidic water. Therefore, if your source water is more on the harder side of neutral, and you don't have access to RO, it is better to look at species that are going to be able to adjust to these conditions.
For example, you could put a species from the coccina complex into tank where the hardness and pH are higher than they prefer. However, the fish is most likely not going to thrive, have a higher incidence of infection by bacteria/parasites (they are often not accustomed to those parasites/bacteria that exist in higher pH waters), and you would probably not see any
attempt at spawning.
I am fortunate in that my tap water is extremely soft with a low KH value and a pH that drops from 7 to around 6 (low as my current pH test kit goes) after 24 hours. However, I now age my water in a tub downstairs where I add rooibos tea extract, IAL and peat moss, to further soften and add colour to the water. I also run a heater in there so I don't have to do anything but add water conditioner when I am doing water changes.
I've found the fish have responded very positively to this method and when I get my downstairs racks set-up, I am going to have a couple of these tubs running.
Last night, I got a few photos of my fish. First is my hendra male guarding his nest of (then) eggs. These have since hatched and he now is busy trying to keep everyone safe.
Then here is one of my bigger sp. apiapi fry. I didn't realise but I have an absolutely enormous fry swimming around in there. I saw it last night when I was trying to take photos of its siblings.
I found a photo I took of the father on yet another forum yesterday. It's funny scrolling through a thread and then there is suddenly one of my fish.