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Old 05-31-2013, 04:09 PM   #11 
ANHEL123
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when you do 100% water changes you need to acclimate betta slowly to the new water so you don't shock him with drastic water temperature difference
How to acclimate
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
Last edited by ANHEL123; Yesterday at 09:58 AM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:18 AM   #12 
inveritas
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Originally Posted by shellieca View Post
I agree with the ammonia & nitrites needing to be 0 but I've always heard from experienced fish keepers & read in my research that low nitrAtes were not harmful in any way. I'm curious why you believe otherwise.
I'll do more water changes, but becuase he is usually in a 2G tank with no plants or filter (took it out when I though it was ripping his fins) there is no cycling process going on.

Anhel - He is behaving absolutely normally and I have quarantined him for the fin rot treatment. Thank you for the velvet instructions, I will follow through that after the fin rot treatment is complete. Doing more water changes now, and no live plants in his tank so I will be able to clean everything thoroughly. Thank you!!
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:13 AM   #13 
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The thing is if he indeed has velvet it fatal, fin rot not fatal. So you really need to take care first of the one that is more dangerous. And if you treat velvet with aq salt it will take care of the fin rot also.
To make sure it really velvet just watch him and see if it getting worse. Usually raising temp and daily water changes can also help wit parasites. Temp speed up life cycle(parasites) and help them to die faster without killing fish.
So if you see that symptoms persist treat him for velvet right away.
And sorry i don't remember if i said it - if you have another fish make sure you do not cross-contaminate anything between them.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:14 AM   #14 
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The thing is if he indeed has velvet it fatal, fin rot not fatal. So you really need to take care first of the one that is more dangerous. And if you treat velvet with aq salt it will take care of the fin rot also.
To make sure it really velvet just watch him and see if it getting worse. Usually raising temp and daily water changes can also help wit parasites. Temp speed up life cycle(parasites) and help them to die faster without killing fish.
So if you see that symptoms persist treat him for velvet right away.
And sorry i don't remember if i said it - if you have another fish make sure you do not cross-contaminate anything between them.
Okay, so to make sure, what's the salt dosage? I'm reading many different ones and am not sure. Thank you!!!
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:26 AM   #15 
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Check post #6 and post #10

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=183737

It really a lot of information there. The dosage of aq salt would be 3tsp / gall and you add it gradually. I think the link that i gave you look those post #6 and #10 will give you all instruction.
Always make sure salt dissolved , shake it well make sure there is not salt crystals left.
Salt is less stressful on fish than medcation so if he has mild fin rot and not getting worse people usually recommending salt first and then if it not helping or fish getting worse you go to meds.
About velvet the same. Some times you need meds and sometimes especially if you caught it right a way you might treat it successfully without meds. So that is why i would not treat him with medication for fin rot and use salt first.
And never stop salt treatiment even if you think fish is better. Especially with parasites because you can't see them with naked eye and they can hide in the gills area and reproduce. Fish might show improvement but then get worse with time.
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:15 AM   #16 
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Originally Posted by ANHEL123 View Post
Check post #6 and post #10

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=183737

It really a lot of information there. The dosage of aq salt would be 3tsp / gall and you add it gradually. I think the link that i gave you look those post #6 and #10 will give you all instruction.
Always make sure salt dissolved , shake it well make sure there is not salt crystals left.
Salt is less stressful on fish than medcation so if he has mild fin rot and not getting worse people usually recommending salt first and then if it not helping or fish getting worse you go to meds.
About velvet the same. Some times you need meds and sometimes especially if you caught it right a way you might treat it successfully without meds. So that is why i would not treat him with medication for fin rot and use salt first.
And never stop salt treatiment even if you think fish is better. Especially with parasites because you can't see them with naked eye and they can hide in the gills area and reproduce. Fish might show improvement but then get worse with time.
Alright, I just took him off the meds and put him in a 1.5tsp/gallon solution in a 1gal hospital tank today - and bumping it up to full 3tsp/gallon from tomorrow, 100% water change daily for the next 2 weeks. Thank you so much!
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #17 
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Make sure the temperature is up to about 84* it also very important part in the treatment. Temperature will speed up parasites cycle and help them to fall faster. Please keep us updated:)
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:35 PM   #18 
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Make sure the temperature is up to about 84* it also very important part in the treatment. Temperature will speed up parasites cycle and help them to fall faster. Please keep us updated:)
The temperature in my country is between 80F to 90F all year round, so that should be automatically taken care of! (Although one would wonder why parasites would develop in this temperature in the first place)
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:56 AM   #19 
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I put in the full dose - 3 tsp (1tbs) / gallon today and he started gasping for air / breathing really hard and lying down on its side. Did a 50% WC with fresh water and keeping the dosage at 1.5tsp/gallon.
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:11 PM   #20 
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If the tank is not cycling, than 30% water changes twice per week in a 2 gallon are definately not enough. Clean water is very important for helping boost a fish's immune system.

Shine a flashlight on your fish and look for a gold-dust effect on his body. That is the tell-tale sign of velvet. Ick shows up as white dots like the fish has been sprinkled with salt.
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