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Old 07-05-2009, 09:14 AM   #41 
dramaqueen
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I agree with Cody. Bettas are solitary and better off by themselves and do not get lonely.
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Old 07-08-2009, 12:45 PM   #42 
MystressRose
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Let's see...of what I have read here, there seems to be agreat debate about communities for bettas and filters. I really think it depends on the fish. I started Pennywise with a 14G tank, by himself, with a filter. He hated the filter (kept attacking the moving water and bubbles), so I took it out. I wondered about the community question for him since I got him from a store that housed him with other fish (some Kuli Loaches and shrimp). I went to a local place and was told to try the GloFish. I was worried at first, but bought 3 and introduced them to the tank. At first, PennyWise seemed to be very interested in them while they were in the bag, but once they went in he pretty much ignored them. They haven't nipped his fins, though I keep a close eye on it. So far so good. The smallest died a week after, but he seemed "off" from the beginning (his fins were smaller than the others). I plan on adding some Kulis, shrimp, and more Glos later after upgrading to a 30G.
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Old 07-13-2009, 01:00 AM   #43 
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@MystressRose: He might not be attacking the bubbles though, but just playing with them. I've heard bettas find amusement chasing bubbles. My male used to do it too but kinda got bored of it xD. Also is your filter set to low flow? They like relatively still water, so the lower the flow the better.

As for putting them with other fish, it really depends on their personality. You have to watch them closely; some don't mine, some are aggressive and some get stressed out so you have to be careful.

And be careful with tank size, you can stress your betta out buy giving him too much territory. Even though you probably don't plan on adding another male to the tank, he doesn't know that and will continue to patrol and protect it. Also the deeper the tank, the more likely they'll get stressed out as well, since they like shallow water.

Last edited by BakaMandy; 07-13-2009 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:18 PM   #44 
LappyGreen
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my sister bought me 2 bettas for my birthday on the 12th. one's a male (Lappy) and the other is a female (Green).

They seem to get along quite well. Lappy made a huge bunch of bubbles on one side of the tank several times and they often 'chase' each other around and blow bubbles.

i have a 2.5 gallon tank with a fake plant and i added a little cave thing last night. they initially looked scared but began swimming in and out of it. i thought all was great.

tonight i came home and Lappy's tail was practically half the size and i saw little pieces inside the filter. 2 days ago i noticed Green's tale was a little shredded.

i noticed they both seem to hang by the filter a lot. is this causing the shredding? there's nothing else that looks different about them, just the shorter fins.

any ideas? (sorry so long)
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:27 PM   #45 
dramaqueen
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No, its probably from fighting. Males and females should not be housed together, no matter what they say at the petstores.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:16 PM   #46 
LappyGreen
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unfortunately, i learned you were right.

today i came home and the male was floating with his mouth into the gravel. all his fins were off. she ate him.

how bizzare
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:34 PM   #47 
dramaqueen
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I'm so sorry about your fish.
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Old 07-26-2009, 01:16 PM   #48 
LappyGreen
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thank you. he had a lovely burial at sea. =(

on a brighter note, the female is happy as a little clam in the tank. swimming all over, making little kissy faces at me, all happy and lovely.
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:04 AM   #49 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody View Post
Cardinals and Neons are always nippy to bettas, from what I've seen. Bettas are not community fish and should be alone.

But, saying no one reads that part, go for something less nippy. All tetras are out. Cories are great.
Say that to the eaten neon that got too close to Spikes corner
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:17 AM   #50 
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[quote=Cody;159911] General Betta Care and FAQ
Index:
-Introduction
-Background Information
-Classification and General Care
-Needed Tank Equipment
-Maintenance
-FAQ


Introduction:

Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta.


Background Info:
Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason.

Sexing:
Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.

Male Betta (with labeled features):


Female Betta:


Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:


Classification and General Care:

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Actinoptergii
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Anabantoidei
Family: Belontiidae
Genus: Betta
Species: Betta splendens

-Scientific Name: Betta spendens
-Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish
-Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies)
-Max Size: 3 inches
-pH level: 6.0-8.0
-Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed.
-Life Span: 3-6 years.
-Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
-Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top.


Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name)



Needed Tank Equipment:

-Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas.
-Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
-Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins.
-Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean.
-Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light.
-Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control.
-Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5.
-Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock.

Here is a good Betta Tank:

It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect!

Maintenance:

A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide.

1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.[/quote



I wish the information that Cody shared, popped up with each post regarding Bettas. Perhaps there would be less posts regarding sick Bettas.

Last edited by 1077; 07-29-2009 at 07:18 AM. Reason: spacing
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