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Speed-cycle?

808 views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  RussellTheShihTzu 
#1 ·
So, I set up another 10 gallon for another betta, did a 50% water change in my current betta tank and put it in the new setup. The rest of the water was dechlorinated. I have a filter, heater, air stone, 2 moss balls, and a little bit of anubias in there. It's been running for 2 weeks and ammonia and pH are still high. I'm getting impatient. How can I speed the cycle up?
 
#2 ·
The best way to "speed" up the cycle is to use seeded filter media from your 1st tank. The water column has very little BB. If you take say a 1/4 to 1/2 of the filter media from the 1st tank (if its fully cycled) & put it into the new filter with new filter media then you should have only a mini cycle if that.
 
#4 ·
If you can, take the filter media from the new tank and shove it in the filter from your old tank. Basically, you want to have something solid transfer from one tank to the other. BB will live on the surfaces of almost anything in a cycled tank; including decor, gravel, the walls, and plants, but most of it resides in the filter because filters are optimal places to grow. By transfering the media you transfer the bacteria you need, then you just need to wait for it to build up.
 
#5 ·
What I did when I building my 160 liters tank was to squeeze the sponge of the filter few times into canister filter.

In this period, you can always add some bacteria culture that you can find at petstores.

I like sera nitrivec. Very good culture.

Also to speed up the cycle, you can feed the empty water.

In my humble opinion the best way to cycle tanks like 10 gallon is to add one or two strong fish - like goldfish they are like immortal.

I have two goldfishes with 3 bambuus. They are in a big vase in our living room. When I set up a tank, I use nitrivec and add those two little buggers and bambuus :) after 2 days, vollaa :) and those two little buggers with me for a long time ;) they were here before I have tanks :)
 
#6 ·
It's been running for 2 weeks and ammonia and pH are still high.
First of all, don't worry about the pH.

Are there fish in that tank? If so, change water until your ammonia is below 0.25ppm, and keep it there. You should have a liquid test kit (like the one from API) to keep an eye on this.

As for transferring bacteria to speed up the cycle, Shellie and Jelloh have given you the best advice.
 
#7 ·
There was a betta because I tried using Seachem's Stability, but unfortunately it didn't work as it was supposed to and the betta didn't survive the night so I'm trying other cycle options. :(
Is ammonia the only level I should keep an eye on? Because pH was through the roof :/
 
#8 ·
In the begining ammonia is the main thing, then nitrItes, then nitrAtes. I do fish IN cycling, I test for ammonia & nitrites the entire time, once my nitrites disappear I test for nitrates. When my ammonia & nitrites are 0 for a week, I consider the tank cycled. I rarely test Ph, IMO, Ph is ONLY important while cycling to ensure it does not drop below 6.5 which can stall a cycle. If you are doing frequent water changes, this is typically not a problem. If you are doing a fish LESS cycle then you should test the Ph at least once a week, if the Ph drops to 6.5 or less do a water change to bring it back up. When you say "pH was through the roof", what exactly is it? You are using a liquid test kit? What is your current ammonia source? Your Betta shouldn't have died in one night of being in the tank especially if the tank had just been set up. Either he was gravely ill when you purchased him or he wasn't acclimated properly.
 
#9 ·
I use API's liquid test kit.
pH was around 7.6, maybe higher. I have 2 moss balls in there right now and I try and toss in some bacteria supplement as needed. I had the betta floating in the cup in the tank for about half hour, then added some tank water to his cup, let that stay for another ten minutes or so and then carefully poured him in.
 
#11 ·
7.6 is fine, a fish will adapt to it. You were close with the acclimating, pour about /12 the water out of the bag or cup the fish is in, float the container in the tank, add a tablespoon of tank water every 15 minutes for at least an hour, then remove the fish either with your hand or a net & release, do not pour the cup water into the tank as you don't what may be in it. I suspect he was ill when you purchased him & the shock of the move was just too much, it happens unfortunately. The bacteria supplement has to be used per instructions otherwise you're just throwing your money away & in most cases it is a waste of money.
 
#12 ·
Are you talking for fish IN cycling or once the tank is fully cycled? For my filtered, fully cycled tanks I do 50% +/- weekly water changes. You wouldn't need to do a 100% with filtered & cycled tank as part of maintenance. While fish IN cycling I let my test results dictate my water change but I typically do ~50%.
 
#14 ·
Honestly, I have always had amazing luck with API's QuickStart. When I started up my 36 gallon last week I transferred over a few pounds of substrate from my old sorority tank along with a few decorations and put in the recommended dosage of QuickStart and everything was right where it needed to be by the second day. I've not lost a fish and I've used it for three different tank set-ups in the past year and a half along with the partial substrate switch.
 
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