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Old 07-10-2013, 05:53 PM   #1 
Beezu
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Question about tank meds with fry

Hi! My fry will be 2 weeks old tomorrow. I had my water tested because there were a few casualties. My pH is low and my ammonia is high. nitrates and nitrites were perfect. I've been trying to suck up stuff off the bottom every day, but maybe i am missing things.

The fish guy gave me some kordon pH 7.0 buffer stuff to bring it up and also Nitra-zorb for the ammonia. It says on the jar good for all fish, but i am hesitant to put it in the tank. its like a tea bag of stuff that floats around. I just put in a sponge filter so that should help too, right?

Anyone have experience with nitra-zorb and fry?

eta: the fish guy told me to do a half dose of the kordon ph7.0 so i have it dripping in at a little less than a half dose.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:00 PM   #2 
Ilikebutterflies
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I would not add meds to a fry tank. Just change the water. You need to do water changes at least every other day in fry tanks. Some people do daily water changes.

You may want to invest in an API master test kit if you are going to be breeding. You need to know when your water needs changing.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:03 PM   #3 
Beezu
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I work at a pet supply store so i can bring in a sample every day i work and its free =D

I thought about getting a test kit and they were like why? just bring in a sample
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:04 PM   #4 
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Also, i did a small water change and then i read that you arent supposed to until they are 2 weeks old?

theres a lot of contradictory information regarding raising fry.

everyone says frequent water changes, but it varies about when to start.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:20 PM   #5 
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I missed they were two weeks old. Lucky duck! Yeah, save the $20 for sure.
What I do for the "tank" method is this:
I add a gallon of aged same temperature water to the tank via siphon hose with an airstone on the bottom. The water flows slowly that way. I start as soon as the fry are free swimming. This dilutes the toxins. It takes 7 days to fill the tank this way. That makes the fry 10-12 days old. The next day after filling the tank I do a 70% or so water change. I keep water aged, treated and the same temperature ready to go.

Now, when I use the bowl method I just gently dump the free swimming fry into a waiting tank and start water changes 10 days later. I like the bowl method better but first timer fish do better with the 10 gallon tank method I think.

So anyway, technically you are waiting until they are two weeks to do water changes but you are technically doing water changes by adding water slowly.

Last edited by Ilikebutterflies; 07-10-2013 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:35 PM   #6 
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Ok. I have added a couple gallons since... hm... a week old i think. i have another gallon dripping in right now. i used an airline tube with a connector on the end and i put a kink in the hose so it just drips. im using a pipecleaner to adjust the kink so i can chose if its a fast drip or a super slow drip. i think the current speed will empty the jug in about 30-40 minutes maybe?


eta: So i will just hang on to the nitra-zorb for now. maybe i will need it in the future with adults
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:04 PM   #7 
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Don't use the uppers/downers for pH on bettas, period.. bettas will adapt to what you have naturally.. raising/lowering with medications can cause it to spike/drop very drastically which would kill all the bettas - adults and fry.

I start water changes just a few days after birth.. I siphon old water out/vacuum the bottom and use a drip system to add new water in slowly. I do it daily until they are moved into the grow outs..

How I siphon is I use an airline tubing, on one end place a clear straw over it as it will make it easier to guide the tube.. and I'll suck on the other end to get the flow going.. I hold the end that is out of the tank with my other hand - I keep a finger at the end of it and only allow the water to siphon out when there is no fry near the tube.. that is how I vacuum.. if there are no fry nearby then I just let it steadily vacuum up the debris/water and if a fry gets near, or I accidentally suck up a fry I will immediately cover the other end of the hose and stop the flow.

To me that is the easiest way to do it.. I vacuum water change normally daily on fry tanks, sometimes every other day depending on how big the spawn is. You will want to remove at least 30% of the water in the tank each time - aim for higher if you can.

I use a drip system to put in new, clean water - basically it's just some clean water gallon jugs (the plastic milk jug variety).. I will place clean water in there with conditioner and an IAL leaf.. I will run an airline tube into it (held by a rubberband at the opening, not too tightly).. halfway down the tube I'll cut it and insert an air control valve.. then place the other end into the tank. Turn the air valve control to the point of how many drips per second you wish for. I do 1-2 drips per second for fry 3 days old to 2 week, then just slowly increase it based upon their size and age.. you don't want it to just pour in, but towards the 4, 5 week mark you should be able to empty a gallon into the tank in an hour or so.
To start the siphon, I'll unplug the air control valve on the side where it meets up with the jug.. suck to get it started, and then quickly cap off. Also remember that the jugs of water need to be higher than the tank to allow gravity to keep it working :)

High ammonia means not enough water changes.. make sure to change the water daily, as that is the top killer of fry.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:48 PM   #8 
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So i have a half-full 10 gallon. should i siphon out, or just add a gallon a day until its full, then siphon and refill? they are two weeks old tomorrow, should i fill it all the way up today, or just do the one gallon or do two?

i think the ammonia was at a 1 and the ph was at less than 6. the fish guy gave me a buffer, not an upper or downer, just a balancer.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:07 PM   #9 
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If your ammonia is that high, you want to be really careful about any sudden rises in pH. At a pH below 7, most of the ammonia becomes converted into the less harmful form of ammonium. However, if you raise the pH above 7, all that ammonium gets converted back to ammonia and at 1ppm, you could cause harm to your fry.

Whatever course of action you take, this is just something to keep in mind when dealing with pH and ammonia.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:32 PM   #10 
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such fussy chemistry! good to know.
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