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Old 07-04-2013, 07:25 PM   #1 
safisher
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Will Kiwi be okay?

My daughter received a beautiful pale pink Delta Male Betta for her birthday this past January. We've all gotten really attached to him...he's such a sweetie!!! We spent the night away from home and came back the following day to discover poor little Kiwi had gotten himself stuck inside the opening to his decorative castle. We have no idea how long he'd been wedged, but I was able to free him by gently pulling him out of the opening. Needless to say, he is really stressed AND he's missing a good portion of his tail, along with one of his little side fins. We're not sure what to do. We're heart sick that he was stuck for who knows how long like that! He's hiding behind the filter, breathing very hard. He has done a little bit of swimming, as well. We haven't fed him yet because we're trying to give him a chance to destress. Please tell us what we can do to help him!
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:34 PM   #2 
Kittiesdragons
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I would remove the castle then add some stress coat. Give him some time alone to chill for a little while then maybe try feeding him tomorrow. Stress coat will help his fins grow back and help calm him down
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:37 PM   #3 
ismintis
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I would also make sure the water is nice and warm, stress coat and warm water should perk him right up.
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:24 PM   #4 
safisher
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THANK YOU for the quick responses. I will run out and get Stress Coat first thing in the morning! It's 9:17 pm and the stores are all closed. I'm praying little Kiwi will be okay until then. Once I freed him from his castle I took it out of his tank. (It will go into the garbage). I forgot to ask, how warm should his water be? He lives in a Mini Bow 1 and has been really happy until now. We don't have a heater, but we have a light bulb that was turned off while we were away. We turned it on when we got home and kept it on until we freed him, but I turned it back off afterwards thinking it would help him de-stress. Would turning the light back on warm the water a bit until I can get a heater?

Last edited by safisher; 07-04-2013 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #5 
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Of course :) I think he will be fine if you keep the temperature in the tank about 75 degrees and don't feed him.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:00 PM   #6 
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As I hope little kiwi is okay!
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:36 PM   #7 
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Do you have any thermometer that is clean? While not ideal you could use a cooking one or something to see how warm the water is if you aren't sure. Also I would invest in a small low watt heater for little tanks and a inside the glass thermometer. Those will help keep your little guy nice and toasty :)
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:03 PM   #8 
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Sorry I didn't see your edit. Kittiesdragons has a perfect response for what to do in the meantime until you get a little heater.
I have a 1 gallon tank that I use this heater in: http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Submersi...sh+tank+heater
I find its perfect for keeping the water warm and at a set temperature that you can preset. It is a little expensive but worth the money :)
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:33 AM   #9 
safisher
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Little Kiwi made it through the night!!!! He still looks bad but when I put my finger on the side of the tank he swam to the top for oxygen and then went back down to the bottom. I hope and pray that is a sign he will pull through. As soon as the stores open, I'll get a heater for the tank and some Stress Coat. We had been dealing with some mild cloudiness of his water before all of this happened. His water is a little more cloudy since we discovered his trauma yesterday. Should I attempt to remove 25% of the water from his mini bow 1 tank? I am worried about stressing him out again. We kept the container he arrived in, when he was given to my daughter. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to put him in there and do a 50-75% water change. (We use Betta Water in his tank). Or would the 25% water removal be okay? Should I add something to the water to take care of the cloudiness? If so, will it be okay to add it along with the Stress Coat? I'm sorry to ask all of these questions, but I just want to do everything I can to give this little guy the best chance possible to pull through!!! Since I'm a novice at this, I am extremely grateful for any advice and suggestions!
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:42 AM   #10 
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Increasing the temperature expedites metabolic levels of fish and can expedite healing substantially. 80 degrees or higher is an ideal temp, preferably from a heater which is good at keeping a very fixed range such as the Ebo Jagers or some offerings from Fluval...a low quality heater that allows temps to flux can in and of itself jeopardize health and it was one of the top issues former clients of mine had fish that were not healthy. Any time temp is increased, it MUST be done slowly...a few degrees every couple of hours, if possible. As far as things like Stress Coat, salt, or MelaFix for physical injuries, I've not seen any indication that these things do much more for the fish than simply giving them a clean environment that is low in stress which allows the fish's immune system to mount a response. The slime coating of a fish is not like our skin and what aloe does is up for debate (things like MelaFix may even be harmful). I do like Prime because it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate...regardless of what goes into a tank, the probability of a fish healing with a notable level of ammonia is much lower than if ammonia is zero or detoxified to ammonium (pH being over 7, which most tap water is).

The immune systems fish have are amazing...the things they can recover from are just incredible. For QT and healing of physical damage, heater burn, and ammonia burn, I believe the best product on the market by far is Nitrofuracin Green due to what it addresses. The primary concern of injuries is secondary infection, which NG addresses better so than any other additive and it does so with less stress, IMHO. For physical damage, it was the only product I used when I bred a variety of delicate fish, including discus, odd plecs, and loaches, along with Prime if they were in a tank that did not have biological filtration capable of offsetting their ammonia output. The biggest problem with smaller tanks tho is that dosing any sort of additive is difficult and it is easy to overdose or for the medication/additive to become deactivated too quickly. Light sometimes increases this effect. And with small tanks, parameter fluxs, plus how additives may increase these fluxs, are also something needing attention. The bigger the tank, the greater the stability of the water in 95% of cases.
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