Increasing the temperature expedites metabolic levels of fish and can expedite healing substantially. 80 degrees or higher is an ideal temp, preferably from a heater which is good at keeping a very fixed range such as the Ebo Jagers or some offerings from Fluval...a low quality heater that allows temps to flux can in and of itself jeopardize health and it was one of the top issues former clients of mine had fish that were not healthy. Any time temp is increased, it MUST be done slowly...a few degrees every couple of hours, if possible. As far as things like Stress Coat, salt, or MelaFix for physical injuries, I've not seen any indication that these things do much more for the fish than simply giving them a clean environment that is low in stress which allows the fish's immune system to mount a response. The slime coating of a fish is not like our skin and what aloe does is up for debate (things like MelaFix may even be harmful). I do like Prime because it neutralizes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate...regardless of what goes into a tank, the probability of a fish healing with a notable level of ammonia is much lower than if ammonia is zero or detoxified to ammonium (pH being over 7, which most tap water is).
The immune systems fish have are amazing...the things they can recover from are just incredible. For QT and healing of physical damage, heater burn, and ammonia burn, I believe the best product on the market by far is Nitrofuracin Green due to what it addresses. The primary concern of injuries is secondary infection, which NG addresses better so than any other additive and it does so with less stress, IMHO. For physical damage, it was the only product I used when I bred a variety of delicate fish, including discus, odd plecs, and loaches, along with Prime if they were in a tank that did not have biological filtration capable of offsetting their ammonia output. The biggest problem with smaller tanks tho is that dosing any sort of additive is difficult and it is easy to overdose or for the medication/additive to become deactivated too quickly. Light sometimes increases this effect. And with small tanks, parameter fluxs, plus how additives may increase these fluxs, are also something needing attention. The bigger the tank, the greater the stability of the water in 95% of cases.