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Old 08-04-2013, 12:44 PM   #1 
millersrepairshop
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My attempt at breeding betta

A little over 10 years ago after 2 unsuccessful attempts at breeding my betta, I simply decided to give up my hobby and cut my losses. I have recently purchased an aquarium for my children to enjoy and it has sparked my interest yet again for the beauty of betta. Since I have purchased 2-10 Gal. tanks, 1-5 Gal. tank and a 30 Gal. grow out tank. I have 1 male and 1 female as of now and also have 2 more males and 2 more females on order. I introduced my female into my breeding tank last night and both fish looked very interested in each other. Her body got darker within an hour. (Both biting at glass and showing off). They are currently in a 5 Gal. tank with a heater set to 82 degrees. She is in a glass globe from an oil lantern. And I am using a cut styrofoam cup as a place for him to build his nest. Also using a sponge filter and I have a floating betta mirror in the tank with also a couple live plants. I left the light on for about 2-3 hours last night after introducing them then went to bed. So far today the light have been on now for about 4-5 hours today and my male has started making his nest. I am new to the website and sorry this post is ending up to be such a long one, but any tips and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #2 
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Here are a few pictures
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:14 PM   #3 
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His dorsel fin is huge. He is pretty but my gosh he has a lot of fins. Betta fins have gotten so long over the years.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:47 AM   #4 
JayM
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He is gorgeous. I'd remove the mirror ball. He shouldn't need it now.
Our male didn't like the cup but we had live floating plants & he built his nest in there.
Hope all goes well.
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:25 AM   #5 
Bootsie
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If you don't have a bubbler I'd add that. A small one would work ( or at least wrap a sponge over one so it doesn't disturb the water too much.

Keep a hiding place (the plants) for the female to escape to because spawning can go on for hours. You might not be there when he chases her off and she'll need a place o hide and destress.

If the filter is causing too much water wake then you can build steps from styrophoam so the water trickles down into the water.

Take out the mirror and let him focus on her. Let her out and if they haven't started dancing within 30 minuets, contain her and try it again tomorrow.

Good luck! I just had my first betta breeding last week and mine are doing great! Just remember they can have a lot of fry, even for the first spawning. Mine was around 150+ guesstimate and I have't noticed a dead fry yet. Gotta find homes for all that you don't cull.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:49 AM   #6 
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You will find that by stopping all water movement ie: filter and airstone he will imediatly built a nest. place the female as close to the nest site as possible in her jar.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:00 AM   #7 
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I've also read that harvesting some bubble nest from a previous container or another male would work to get him motivated. It worked great with my first spawning 3 days ago. I also let the female out before the nest was finished, but they were both pretty docile considering they're nature. Neither was wounded but you just have to gauge how your bettas are. Good luck! It is a really exciting experience when they spawn!
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #8 
indjo
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First, welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of bettas :)

Since this is your first attempt, I'm guessing you would like to "see" everything. If so, don't use any floating . . . anything. . . instead cover the top/tank where you want them to nest (opposite end of hide outs). This will enable you to see everything easier compared to nests under styrofoam or other floating objects.

First time breeders can be left in the chimney for 1-3 days since they usually need more courtship time which may mean longer beating time. Keeping the female caged will keep her safe. But for veterans, 1 night is usually enough because they usually spawn within 24 hours.

I agree to take out any object that may distract them both, namely the mirror. Pumps and filters should be turned off until fry are strong enough to fight the current . . . though pumps should be set to 1-2 bubbles per second.

Bubble nests are not a must. If they show flirting signs, they will breed. So you don't really have to worry about nests (for future reference).

Make sure you have fry food ready before you breed. Sometimes fry can easily starve since they will most likely react better towards live foods.
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:51 AM   #9 
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I have since removed the floating mirror and his bubble nest seems to be coming along nicely.(Covers the entire inside of the foam cup and in some spots are up to almost a half an inch thick) The sponge filter I have in place is set to very low causing no water movement inside tank. I will attach a few pictures so you can see his nest development. I will also include a picture of the female I intend on breeding with him. She appears to be ready. I only have 2 small live plants in the aquarium so visibility is great as well as her having great hiding places. I did release the female last night for a few hours. She seemed very interested in the male. She would charge right up to him under his bubble nest and they would both show off to each other. She would swim right up to him as if to go into the embrace, but then quickly dart away. Are things going correctly? And does my female appear to be ready to spawn? Any idea what offspring I should expect with this pair?
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #10 
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I would say blue fish with red wash(like the male)or red fish with blue wash. You may possibly get red fins and irid bodies. The steel color is in the top layer (irid layer)and the red is in the 3rd layer(red layer). There are 4 color layers in betta fish. Each layer controls a different set of colors/characteristics. When mixing layers you often you end up with messy results. Mixing color layers should be done very carefully.
Red wash is a fault unless there is enough red there to qualify it as a bi-color-meaning the body is one color and the fins another.

Some other options: Breed him to another irid fish w/o red on it. Copper, blue, green, turquoise. That should greatly reduce the red wash.
Breed him to a nr fish. (non-red ie:yellow or orange) that will eliminate most of the redwash in future generations but allow you to keep the irid colors. IMHO a nr fish carrying the butterfly pattern would look nice.
Breed him to a red dragon fish. That may give you a metallic irid body color with red fins. It could be kinda cool looking in the f1 and f2.
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