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Old 08-22-2013, 01:30 PM   #1 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Whats the best sized tank fora betta

Hello everyone. I hope someone can help me out. I have a betta who is sick. He had finrot and it came back once he started healing. I've called petco and an aquarium vet who both told me that the size of the tank could be part of the reason he's getting sick. That its big and empty and could be stressing him out and that he should be in a gallon or so tank or even in a fish bowl. Is that truely better for them or should i leave him in the 5 gal tank? I'll admit atm i have only 2 plants in there but i ordered more and they should be here soon. The only reason i got a 5 gal tank is i read on line that WAS the best for them, but all the feedback i'm getting from the pet-store and the vet is that 5 gals is too much. If i need a smaller tank i can buy one at my job they sell 1 1/2 gal tanks and i could easly set it up and get it running on a tray (Dont know what i'll do with the 5 gal tank) but anyways. Some advice would be great
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:34 PM   #2 
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Join Date: Apr 2013
I have a 2 gallon tank for my male betta and he seems quite comfortable. I have him a plastic plant in his tank for him to swim into when he gets nervous. Do you have any thing he can hide behind in the 5 gallon?
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #3 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
For some Bettas..yes, IMO/E the tank can be too big. You have to remember that the long fin male delicate long heavy fins are man made. Often the long fin male haven't been in a container much bigger than the temporary cups you buy them in-and rarely with any type of water movement since they are cupped for grow out.

Some long fin males-not all-can have problems in larger tanks-especially filtered tanks-The well meaning hobbyist thinking bigger filtered tanks will make the Betta thrive-when it sometimes-not every time can backfire-they get stressed and this in turn can compromise the immune response, it can sometimes cause neurotic behaviors like tail biting, glass surfing. Sometimes you will start to see tattered fins and blown fins due to using them to swim in larger tanks and/or from the filter/water movement.

With some of the more delicate long fin males-you have to slowly build them up so they can thrive in larger filter tanks by going in steps-slowing acclimating over time-Along with good nutrition and tannins to help strengthen, toughen fins, scales...etc.....

Not all long fin males have these type of fin problems with larger filtered tanks and even then it is just cosmetic-but some can and it can be so depressing when our new long fin males beautiful flowing long fins start to tatter-get shorter, he stop eating and hides in a corner or start tail biting or glass surfing-then a dreaded secondary infection shows up that he can't fight due to the compromised immune response from the stress.....All due to a large filtered can and does happen.....

Here is a link to an old thread I wrote some time back when I was a moderator here that you might find interesting and hopefully healpful.

Last edited by Oldfishlady; 08-22-2013 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:09 PM   #4 
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
I moved my Betta from a 1 gallon to a 10 gallon and added tank mates.. he seems soooo much happier
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #5 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Mandi he does have stuff to hide behind. ATM i have atleast 4 plants in the tank all grouped up so he can hide and sleep in them. I just grouped them up now after i removed the castle i had in the middle of the tank.

Old personally i was afraid of that. I'm not sure how long he was kept in a small contanter before he was transported to my job. He was fine for a few weeks before the tail-rot set in and now seems to be spreading to another fin and returning to his tail fin which is depressing. He was stored in unsantary condtions in a 'fish garden' at my job and could be sick.

I'm not sure what glass surfing is but i think he maybe doing that. At times i see him swim up and down the glass mostly on the right hand side of the tank. I want him to be happy. He also does have long flowing fins..well he use too before they started to rot off for some reason. I've been treating him with betta-fix and i added aquarium salt. On saturday I'm gonna do a full water change again and see if that could help him out. I also didntk now theyre fins are man made. Seems horrable to do that to a living creature. They're bigger than his body when i saw them i wondered how he got around but he seems to be able to swim with them so thats good. I've also notested since i grouped up the plants he's been staying on that side of the aquraium. Saddly he's still resting on the rocks and i wish he wouldnt :(

I've also been thinking i may have a 5 gal tank but it can also be used as a turaraium. If needed i could only put like 3 gals in there and lower the filter so it can still firate the water. Could that help him if the tank is too big?

Last edited by Abawhite2021; 08-22-2013 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:00 PM   #6 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Try to do more water changes and see if it will help to perk him up. I am not sure how much and how often you change his water before?
Since he is sick i would turn off the filter and try to do more water changes. Do 3- 50% water changes about 2-6 hrs apart. Then do another full water changes about 4 -6 hrs apart from the last 50% water change.
Stop betta fix it very easy to overdose and it harmful for bettas labyringh organs. So do all water changes to get rid of the betta fix and salt.
Salt has antibacterial affect but you need to use right dosage though and duration.
How much and how long you been adding the salt?
Is he still eating?
What food you feeding him with?
If he is eating i would recommend to go and buy frozen blood worms , it enriched in protein and good for the immune system.
What kind of water conditioner are you using?
Did you ever check your water to see if you have ammonia in your tap water?
And you can lower the water so it will be easier for him to swim up for the air and take out the filter for now.
There is a lot of factors that betta can get sick...but i think now you need to try to get him better.
Also i just read Oldfishlady thread after i put my post and it also a lot of helpful information there.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:08 PM   #7 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Before he got sick i never did i had no knowledge of the cycle ppl talk about i do now and i've thought about what to do with Fishy and i desided to get him a hospital tank This way i can do daily 50% water changes and clean any poop or food that falls to the bottom. In that tank i can keep the filter from running and add salt.

The last time i added salt was last week. I havent touched the water because of the betta-fix which did crap for him.

I'm using Prime water conditoner the biggest ? i have is the salt. If hes in a 1 1/2 hosptal tank how much salt should i put in? Someoen said 1 tea-spoon per gal.
He is eatting, i've been giving him dryed brine shrimp. One a day and he gobbles it up.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:26 PM   #8 
Join Date: Apr 2012
How much of the aq salt per gall you was adding?
How long you was treating him with salt?
Do you have stress coat? Stress coat has Aloe Vera in it and helps with healing.
About filter , even if he would be in 5 gall you can go without the filter. I have 5 gall i keep it without the filter only because it easier for me to do regular water changes.
Aquarium salt you can use 1tsp/gall up to 3tsp/gall. In 1 1/2 gall tank i would do daily water changes. But first do a few 50% water changes so you don't shock him with water difference.
And before you use salt again tell us how long and how much you been using. Salt is helpful with mild fin rot but you can not overdose it as it will affect the kidneys. You can use reuse salt again though if you finished it 7 days ago.
You always need to pre mix it and make sure it dissolved before you adding it in the tank. You can start with 1 tsp/gall and slowly increase it to 3 tsp/gall in 12 hrs period. Or just add 1 tsp/gall first day of the treatment.
2 tsp/gall second day
3tsp/gall day 3
You can treat with salt up to 14 days , no longer than that.
About food try also frozen food really recommending and the best pellets are

Do daily 100% water changes after you do a few 50%.
Very important to acclimate your betta to the new water
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:27 PM   #9 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Here is a few variations that's pretty simple:
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:44 PM   #10 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Thank you i'm gonna do that it would be less stressful for him to do so. I have some dixie cups i can use to put him in but if needed i have plastic cups around the house as well. It sounds like putting him in a dixie cup would be less stressful and i can float it in the hospital tank. The biggest problem i have is should i put the heater in the hospital tank?
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