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Old 09-29-2013, 05:31 AM   #21 
rickey
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Some where in the 2 to 4 ppm range. You have to keep in mind API are not super accurate in the higher range.When ammonia gets above 2 ppm it becomes a guessing game.I'm not that well versed in the API test as they are not what I use.

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Old 09-29-2013, 09:36 AM   #22 
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It doesn't matter whether it's 1.0ppm or 4.0ppm. Anything over 0.25ppm, the palest green, is too high for his health. Change water to achieve <0.25ppm. Use Prime.
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:44 AM   #23 
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lol @ Hallyx

Im trying to cycle my tank. I want high ammonia. lol
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:17 AM   #24 
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Wait, are you doing a fish-in cycle, or are you cycling with some other source of ammonia?

If you are doing fish-in, then Hallyx is correct, anything about 0.25 in either ammonia or nitrITE is going to hurt your fish, and if it goes too high could possibly kill him. Getting the numbers down to 0.25 or below (but not at 0) will still allow your tank to cycle, but will keep the fish safe as well. It's a balance between providing enough "food" for the BB's and keeping your fish from getting ammonia or nitrite poisoning in the process.

If you are doing fishless cycling, then yes, your ammonia can be higher. But, you also don't want it to be too high, because that will *also* stall out your cycle. I made that mistake the first time I did a bucket cycle. I thought "more ammonia=faster/better cycle!" but it doesn't work that way. :P (Unfortunately, lol!)

If the ammonia is too high, it will take much, much longer for the BB's that eat ammonia and convert it into nitrITE to work through all that food, and same for the BB's that convert the nitrITE into nitrATE.

It's like you're at a buffet, and someone gives you six plates of food. There's no way you can eat all that at one time. So, you eat one plate, then you take several days to eat all the other plates. Ideally, you want them to bring you one plate of food, so that you can move on to doing other things. Same thing with your cycle. The nitrITE BB's only want one plate of ammonia. :)

Does that help? :)
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #25 
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Sorry for the confusion. I am doing a fish-less cycle.

Yes. Does 'stall' mean the same thing as 'restart'?

Last edited by CoolishPrune3; 09-30-2013 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:39 PM   #26 
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Oh and does this product help a little, a lot, or not at all?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...m?pcatid=18986
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:28 PM   #27 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolishPrune3 View Post
Oh and does this product help a little, a lot, or not at all?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...m?pcatid=18986

I'm not a fan bacteria in a bottle, but if you are going to use one that's the best. Dr. Hovanec did the original research on nitrifying bacteria in aquariums

R
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:00 AM   #28 
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Dr Tim's O&O is arguably the best of the bottled bacteria products. It is shipped fresh from the factory in an insulated package, so it is the most likely to arrive in your tank fresh and healthy. It is also the most expensive i\of these products.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:48 AM   #29 
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I am going to try to finish this cycle first by myself with only the ammonia and patience. If I need a little kick start after a month and seeing no nitrites or nitrates I will considering give my tank a boost with this stuff. Thanks for your help everyone!
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:45 PM   #30 
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I have some new sponge filters on the way. I was wondering if I can swap out my HOB filter with the sponge filter and continue my cycle.
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