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Old 11-24-2009, 05:37 PM   #1 
New2Betas
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Can I do a 10 gallon without a filter?

So Iím getting a 10 gallon tank and thinking of moving Master Beta into it, after his fins look better. Itís hard to see him in his bowl. I like the ease of just dumping the water each week and doing a cleaning. Can I do this with a 10 gallon too.
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:42 PM   #2 
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Well you should let the tank cycle first, with a filter, then do 10-30% water changes on a regular basis...IMHO

If you do no filter, as least add something to airate and/or break the surface of the water...a little circulation does wonders.

you might want to try carbon if you can afford to change it every week...really, it would be cheaper to get a filter.

Last edited by Glockafella; 11-24-2009 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:10 PM   #3 
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In theory you don't have to cycle or filter a 10g, but here are some things for you to consider:

1) A 10 gallon tank holds approx. 83.5 pounds of water. It may not be very easy to 'dump'.
2) Moving the tank anywhere (eg a sink or bathtub) to clean it increases the risk of cracking it exponentially.
3) If you buy the 10g as a kit (which you pretty much have to do if you want a lid for it) it will come with a filter anyways.
4) As per point 1, the only way to get the water out is to siphon it anyways so the only difference between cycling and non-cycling is that you are siphoning out 10% of the water instead of 100%.

Personally I would cycle it because a lone betta in a cycled 10 gallon = 10% water change per week. Thats ridiculously low maintenance. It's not even funny how low maintenance that is! In theory, if you planted it with enough plants to soak up the nitrates, you wouldn't even NEED to change the water! But you would have to do a lot of research to pull that off lol.


Plus, I guarantee you that cleaning a cycled 10g will take you 30 minutes MAX per week. Probably faster than scrubbing everything.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:12 PM   #4 
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^ Agreed ^
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:12 PM   #5 
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You have to have a filter to cycle the tank. If you don't cycle the tank then you'll have to do full changes which would be difficult with a 10 gallon.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:13 PM   #6 
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The one I'm looking at getting does not come with a filter, but tell me more.
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:23 PM   #7 
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So PetSmart will have filter on Black Friday For $10, How do I start the cycling process? Pleas dont send me a link! I need simple english.
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:52 PM   #8 
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Fishless aquarium cycle

Advantages of the fishless cycle:

The advantages of this process over the traditional method of cycling a tank using a few small, hardy fish to get the bacterial colonies up and running all result from "front-end loading" the tank. The amount of ammonia added is far above that generated by a reasonable number of cycling fish, resulting in faster growth of the bacterial colonies, and larger colonies when you're finished.

In practical terms, this means that your tank cycles faster (reports of anywhere from 10 days to 3 weeks, depending on the fish tank...compared to average of 4-6 weeks for traditionally cycled tanks), and that you can fully stock a tank when the cycle is complete. This latter point is of particular interest to keepers of African cichlids or other aggressive fish. If these fish are all added together as juveniles, they are much more tolerant of each other than if they're added in small groups after the first fish have established their territories.

Of course, another big advantage is that no fish are subjected to high ammonia or nitrite concentrations, eliminating mortalities and ammonia/nitrite related illnesses which frequently occur in new tanks.

Alternative Recipe:

While the original recipe works quite well (4-5 drops NH3 / 10 gal / day until nitrite peaks, then reduce to 2-3 drops / 10 gal / day), it does NOT take into account varying concentrations of ammonia that are available. ACS grade ammonia, which I was using, is ~28% NH3, while most household cleaner grades vary from 4-10%, a fairly wide variation in concentration. Bottles that have been left open for long periods of time will be lower in concentration, as the NH3 gas escapes back into the atmosphere.

With that in mind, I'd like to propose a different recipe, which was suggested by D_Man and others (thanks!): Add ammonia to the tank initially to obtain a reading on your ammonia kit of ~5 ppm. Record the amount of ammonia that this took, then add that amount daily until the nitrite spikes. Once the nitrite is visible, cut back the daily dose of ammonia to Ĺ the original volume.

One advantage of this method is that the ammonia spike occurs immediately... when adding 4-5 drops/10 gal/day, it could take 4-5 days before the ammonia reaches the same levels. This should result in an acceleration of the entire process, though by how much (on average) remains to be seen.

Sources of Bacteria:

While it is probable that the bacteria required for the conversion of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate exist at very low levels in most uncycled tanks, it greatly accelerates the process to inoculate the tank with a large dose of healthy bacteria to get things started.

Good sources of beneficial bacteria are ranked from best to least:
1) Filter material (floss, sponge, biowheel, etc.) from an established, disease free tank.
2) Live Plants (preferably potted, leave the rockwool on until cycling is finished). Crypts or amazon swords are good choices, and not too demanding.
3) Gravel from an established, disease free tank. (Many lfs will give this away if asked nicely)
4) Other ornaments (driftwood, rocks, etc.) from an established tank.
5) Squeezings from a filter sponge (any lfs should be willing to do this...)

There are also a number of commercial bacterial supplements (Cycle, Stress-Zyme, etc.) available. IMHO, without getting on a soapbox, these have very little to no effect, and are best left on the shelf. If you want to try it, go ahead, but I believe that any of the above options will be more effective, and most if not all of them will be cheaper.

Sources of Ammonia:

The most difficult part of the fishless cycling procedure, according to many postings on the message boards, involves finding a good source of Ammonia. Ammonia used should be free of surfactants, perfumes, and colourants. Unfortunately, not everyone has access to ACS grade ammonium hydroxide. Always read the ingredients on the bottle.

The best sources for Pure or Clear Ammonia are discount grocery stores or hardware stores. Often, the no-name brand is the stuff you're looking for.

Some other people have reported success with the following brand names of ammonia: Top Crest or Whirl Clear Ammonia. To paraphrase RTR: If it doesn't list the ingredients, or say Clear Ammonia (or Pure Ammonia or 100% Ammonia, or Pure Ammonium Hydroxide), then leave it on the shelf and look elsewhere.

Shake the bottle if you're not sure about it... ammonia with surfactants will foam, while good ammonia will not.

Water Changes and Ammonia Removing Chemicals:

A large water change (50-70%) should be done before adding any fish to the tank to lower nitrate levels, which can be a pain to bring down later. When changing the water during a fishless cycle, do NOT use dechlorinators that also sequester ammonia, such as the very popular Amquel.

I have heard from at least one individual who did everything right with regards to cycling her tank using this method... the tank cycled quickly, then she did a water change, then added a reasonable fishload the following day with more than adequate filtration, and observed both an ammonia and a nitrite spike. The only explanation that I could think of after questioning her extensively led back to the Amquel. In a normal, established fish tank, the ammonia is being generated nearly constantly... in a fishless cycle however, the ammonia is added as a daily dose...
IMO, it's conceivable (though not really provable unless a lot more people experienced identical problems) that the Amquel temporarily deprived the bacteria of its food source, causing a minor die-back in the colony at the worst possible time... right before adding her fish. To be on the safe side, use a simple chlorine/chloriamine remover which does not affect your ammonia levels.

By similar logic, any other ammonia removing chemicals (eg. Ammo-lock) or resins (Amrid) should also be avoided while cycling... they will affect the cycle, extending it's duration or otherwise adversely affecting the bacterial colonies.

Too Much Ammonia?:

It IS possible to add too much ammonia to the tank (generally several times the amounts suggested in either recipe), as some individuals discovered by mistake (thanks Boozap). What happens in this case is that the ammonia will spike very far off the chart then the nitrite will spike as well (also way off the chart), and it will continue to spike for a very long time.

Why? There are a couple of possibilities... the first is that the filter media and surfaces in the tank or oxygen levels are simply insufficient to grow and maintain a bacterial colony massive enough to convert all of the ammonia and all of the nitrite to nitrates.

Another likely possibility is that the ammonia levels are high enough to inhibit growth (through a biofeedback mechanism) of the bacteria rather than promoting it. The solution is quite simple, however. If you realize that you've added way too much ammonia simply do a water change, or if necessary a series of water changes to bring the ammonia and/or nitrite levels back into the readable range on your test kit. Then proceed as normal with daily additions of ammonia until the tank is cycled.

Other Uses:

Fishless cycling is also very applicable to hospital/quarantine or fry growout tanks... when not in use, a maintenance dose of ammonia (eg. 2-3 drops/10 gallons) can be added daily to keep the tank cycled and ready for new fish indefinitely. Simply stop the addition the day before you want to buy your fish, take ammonia and nitrite tests to be certain that the levels are still zero, and do a water change to reduce nitrates.

Future of Fishless Cycling:

The future of this method is up to those of you out there that have tried this and like the method. If you do, please continue to promote it, whether on the internet, at your lfs, or at fish club meetings. Feel free to print off this; the more people that know about this method the better. I'd be very happy if lfs caught on to this idea as have fishkeepers on the internet, and recommended it to newbies as a safer, cheaper way to do things.

IMO, the number of people that didn't get frustrated in the early stages and thus continued with fishkeeping would make it worth their while.

Written by Chris Cow
Ph.D. Organic Chemistry
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:54 PM   #9 
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Wow!! Good info!
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:57 AM   #10 
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Now that Glockafella has explained how to do it, here is what happens in the actual process of cycling:


Rotting food and fish waste produces a toxin called ammonia. This is usually what kills fish when the tank isn't cleaned often enough. Given enough ammonia, bacteria called Nitrosomonas start living off it and starting a colony in the tank. They live on all the surfaces, primarily the filter because it contains the most surface area. They eat the ammonia and produce a less-harmful waste product called nitrIte.

When nitrIte builds up, it attracts another kind of bug called Nitrobacter bacteria. They do all the same stuff as Nitrosomonas, only with the nitrIte instead of ammonia. What comes out the other end is a chemical called nitrAte. It's only harmless in big amounts. You then vacuum the nitrAte out of the tank when you do the water change. It doesn't take alot of vacuuming to remove.

In an uncycled tank, you skip the bacteria by sucking all the ammonia up yourself. Since you are cleaning out all the ammonia before the bacteria get a chance to dig in, they never really colonise the tank. So you take care of all the ammonia yourself, which requires bigger water changes to eliminate.

AMMONIA >nitrosomonas bacteria> NITRITE >nitrobacter bacteria> NITRATE => Water Change
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