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Old 01-19-2010, 02:36 PM   #11 
Betta Fish Bob
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That's awesome!

Found this Methylene Blue article, and a place to purchase. I know you do not need it now, but maybe for future reference.

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Quickcure.html

I do not know this particular website or company, but it looks pretty reliable.

METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :
A heterocyclic aromatic chemical compound with molecular formula: C16H18ClN3S.

USE:
For use to treat Fungus on eggs, Ich, Saprolegnia and some bacteria (although generally not for use in bacterial infections other than as a bath/dip/quarantine therapy).
MB is effective in treatment of some gill diseases, especially from injury such as ammonia burns or fluke damage as it transports oxygen allowing for more gill efficiency and as well aiding in some healing of tissue.

Probably one of the best “first response” treatments when used as a bath or even dripped directly on a fish for both internal and internal injuries and infections. Generally used as a 30 minute bath/dip at double dose, in fact Methylene Blue has a wide safety margin and is nontoxic when used as recommended. Fish tolerate relatively high dosages of Methylene Blue without side effects.
Very effective when used as a dip for topical treatment of parasites, fungal, and some infections. When Dylox is not available, this can a useful treatment for anchor worm (especially in goldfish); first carefully remove the anchor worm with tweezers, then dip the affected fish in Methylene blue. When used with a UV sterilizer to kill the swimming stage of the female anchor worm (the female is the parasite), this can be an effective treatment. (Tank can also be treated with Malachite green or malachite green combination during this time for improved effectiveness).

Methylene Blue can also treat some protozoa (such as Oodinium, although only a mild treatment for this but it can be more effective when combined with other chemical treatments such as in Medicated Wonder Shells).


Also very useful for;

*A dip/bath for potassium cyanide, ammonia, and nitrite poisoning due to Methylene Blue’s affect on Methemoglobinemia (nitrite poisoning).
*Effective as an antidote for other forms of poisoning including damage to the liver and kidneys caused from poisoning (assuming damage is not past the point normal regeneration) due to being reduced by components of the electron transport chain (a chemical reaction between an electron donor and an electron acceptor to the transfer of H+ ions across a membrane, via a set of mediating biochemical Redox reactions).
*For transfer of fish when moving or temporary storage of fish in crowded conditions.
*Treatment of new fish arrivals in a hospital tank, again due to methylene blue’s affect on Methemoglobinemia, bacteria, and protozoa.
*As a medicated bath for Dropsy or any other internal malady such as Swim Bladder problems (as MB is easily tissue absorbed). For many external infections Potassium Permanganate is sometimes a better choice for a bath.
*A test for Redox Potential in aquariums, as methylene blue will lose color in a reducing environment (you can test this with some powdered Wonder Shell dissolved in water). See my article: THE REDOX POTENTIAL IN AQUARIUMS (& PONDS) AND HOW IT RELATES TO PROPER AQUATIC HEALTH

DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium.

My preferred use of Methylene Blue is a bath. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). You may also add salts to your bath to improve effectiveness for certain problems when preparing baths for freshwater fish (such as swim bladder, dropsy or unknown problems). Generally I would use 1 teaspoon of sodium chloride (regular salt) per gallon and occasionally teaspoon of Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate) per gallon.
Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do NOT pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day. This bath is useful for fresh AND saltwater.
For more about Fish Baths, please refer to this article:
Aquarium Disease Prevention; Fish Baths (Section 9).

This bath is VERY effective for ammonia/nitrite poisoning, Swim Bladder problems, and is helpful for many other internal/systemic infections. MB baths are a good treatment when nothing else is working and/or little is known as to why as fish is acting abnormally (the MB bath does not always work, but it is a relatively safe method vs. indiscriminately dumping other medications into a display aquarium).

In the case of swim bladder infection or problems the MB bath is often the only treatment required other than possible correcting diet and adding more electrolytes (calcium, magnesium, etc. to your aquarium

NOTES: Methylene Blue is removed by activated carbon filtration. It will also be absorbed by porous materials such as rock, coral and wood. Caution should be used in a display tank at full dose (not usually a problem when part of buffered chemical formulations such as Medicated Wonder Shells when used as directed).

Further references:
<A href="http://ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/ista/ista6/ista6web/pdf/188.pdf" target=_blank>http://ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/ista/ista6/ista6web/pdf/188.pdf,/a.
http://www.umm.edu/altmed/drugs/methylene-blue-085200.htm
http://sst.ifas.ufl.edu/22ndAnn/file17.pdf
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:36 PM   #12 
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Thanks!!
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:27 AM   #13 
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Oh, sorry dq I didn't see that before. They hatched on Sunday, so today (Wed) they are three days old. I could only find one this morning, laying on the heater. I put some brine shrimp by him but he didn't move....I don't know if they're gonna make it. Also it was refrigerated brine shrimp so they weren't really wiggling or enticing him, but I do have a new hatch going and so I put like one or two new bbs in there but I couldn't see them. I couldn't find any of the other babies, and the water has a scum on it like Aqua had in his section of the ten-gallon. Not sure what it is, it looks like an oil spill. You can kind of scrape it off with a net, but it comes back. Could it be fish saliva from the bubblenest by any chance? Possibly a stupid guess but I don't know.....
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:28 AM   #14 
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Oh, and I'm back to conditioning Chip and Spitfire in case these babies don't work out.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:34 AM   #15 
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I have no idea what could be causing the scum. I hope the one baby makes it. Someone else on here had only one fry to survive. It might have been Cindylou but I'm not sure.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:59 AM   #16 
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Yeah, I hope he makes it too. I love the parents' colors and really wanted babies from them, but if Aqua is an egg-eater I'm not sure I would want to try him again. I think I might try siphoning some more and putting some clean water in, but I feel bad for the babies because they've already had so much stress with me siphoning and all. But then, maybe it'd be good for them. It's possible there is more than one and I just can't find them.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:50 PM   #17 
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Breeding bettas isn't as easy as some people might think. Our members who have bred their bettas have had all kinds of problems. Sometimes you have to try 2 or 3 times before having success.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #18 
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Yeah, that's definitely true. Years ago I did spawn a bunch of times, and for me that's the easy part. Raising the babies is quite difficult!!
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:56 PM   #19 
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I'm pretty certain the babies are dead...And the scum on top of the water is awful. I have no idea what it is. So I might give it a good cleaning and try a different pair, we'll see.
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:00 PM   #20 
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I'm so sorry!! I have no idea what could have caused the scum. Maybe a good cleaning will help.
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