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Old 06-14-2010, 01:43 PM   #1 
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Betta and Snail dead- what to do with Otto

Hello, I have three tanks. My smallest (5 gallon) just had my betta die. This betta has been sick on and off since I got it about 4 months ago. It was a really white one. He started with fin rot and things got worse from there. I tried different treatments along the way but I don't think he was ever really healthy.

He ended up dying with a red spot on the top of his head and then in the days before he died, he got two more red spots on his side. Not like open gaping wounds- just discoloration.

He was living with a small snail that was only with us a few weeks that died too. We also had an otto in there that we had only had for a week.

Tank water was just tested a few days ago and all my numbers were good in there. The tank is filtered and has a heater although we don't need it anymore since it is summer and stays 78-80 in there.

My questions are this...
Do I need to clean out the entire tank now and restart? I don't know what exactly the betta had and if it was contagious. I am thinking I need to clean every thing and start over.

Do I leave the otto in there? I don't want to move him to another tank if he has been contaminated by the betta and snail but if I need to redo all the water, will he survive the cycling?

I don't know that happened with the snail. It never moved around much from the time we got it.

Thanks in advance for helping with this!

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Old 06-14-2010, 03:06 PM   #2 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
When you had the water tested what number did you have and can you post those numbers for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH

How much and how often was the water changes, additives used if any, filtration, any live plants

If you can answer those question we can help you figure out what happened and we can go from there....
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:13 PM   #3 
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I would have to find the sheet from last week when I tested the water. Basically all the numbers were fine.

I have a 4.5 gallon tank with a Red Nano filter, hydor heater (when needed) and no live plants. There are only silk plants and plenty of places to hide. I change the water about every 7-10 days- probably about 30-40 percent of it. I added Prime to it. I also have a gravel vac that I use to keep the gravel clean. I did not vac weekly- probably about once a month. I have tried adding aquarium salt to the tank per directions a few times but it did not seem to help.

The betta has been two different tanks. The last one being a 10 gallon by himself with the plants and filter. I moved him from there about three months ago because he seemed a little sensitive to the Whisper Filter 10i that I had in there. He seemed much better in the smaller tank from the minute I put him in.

He eats Betta flake food with little frozen worms in it.. I fed him about five times a week.

He really has been off since I got him. I heard that the white ones are more recessive and a little harder to care for if they get sick. Don't know if that is true but after the first round of fin rot- I had him looking better but then he started looking bad again and the red spot on his head started appearing. That spot covered the entire top of his head.

I lost another betta- a big plaket male who declined slowly over time and had marks on his body. He was in a different tank.

I am trying to learn. I hate that fish die as I try to learn. I am hopeful that I can do better next time.
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:40 PM   #4 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
IMO-your problem seem to be a water quality issue.
In a 4.5g tank with filtration to maintain quality water for fish and fin health-needs at least twice weekly 50% water changes and one substrate vacuum with one of the twice weekly water changes.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water with a water change 1-2 times a month or when the water flow slows.

On the 10g tank with filtration it needs at least 50% weekly water change with substrate vacuum and filter media care as stated above

The only chemical additive needed IMO is a good dechlorinator if on city water supply

This is based on the fish not being over fed and uneaten food removed after feeding.

This is what you want your numbers to read, remember even with these number other things are in your tank that you don't test for.
The DOC (dissolved organics) that can build up in a closed system that can be harmful to the fish can only be removed by water changes or lots of active growing plants (80-95%)
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 5-10ppm
pH-vary and fish will adjust and be just fine as long as the values are stable

It is a good idea to get your own master test kit. API makes a good master test kit that is fun and easy to use and it last forever

Understanding the water quality is important, to be a successful fish keeper you must first be a keeper of water...the fish environment and quality water are the key to success in this awesome hobby in my opinion and experience.......

Look forward to seeing and hearing about your new fish and set-ups.....
And it is so much fun to learn new things about such a wonderful hobby that is ever changing and growing......
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