i dont have a sponge filter and i am fine dont listen to this guy
It's natural that at times members will disagree on what's best, but we request that members do so with some tact. If there is a reason why you feel a person ought not to bother with a filter then you are of course welcome to state it. Even saying "I don't have one and my fish is fine" is ok. Telling other members "don't listen to this guy" just because you disagree with his advice, though, is both disrespectful and antagonizing. Again, please be more tactful going forward.
Originally Posted by beta novice
ik what i am talking about also pm me sometime if you need help
Originally Posted by Alienbetta1
me to you can PM me as well.
The idea of a forum is to participate in group discussions with other hobbyists. Please do not encourage members to pm you exclusively for advice. When members seek advice in this way they miss out on hearing from other experienced members and any worthwhile advice given via pm is lost to the rest of the fish keeping community.
For the health of your betta you'll need at least a 5 gallon tank, preferably heavily planted, with a heater set between 76-80 degrees fahrenheit. Most filters are nice and very much advised, but not exactly necessary. You've got great betta food, feed him between 2 to 4 each day, a small portion in the morning and another in the afternoon or night.
Also, while you betta is in the tiny tankish thing, you'll probably need to do dail 100% water changes so the ammonia won't build up and kill your betta.
At least the moderators on this forum show some maturity. :/
Anyway, those who stated that your tank was an improper container are correct. In a container the size of the one you have now, you should be changing 100% of the water every day because fish constantly excrete ammonia through their gills, kind of like urine--this quickly builds up in the tank and can literally burn your poor fish. You will hear people recommend a variety of sizes, bigger is definitely better, but about the smallest you could heat safely would be 2.5 gallons.
If you add a filter, sponge filter or otherwise, your fish tank can undergo what's called the nitrogen cycle, the process by which the tank is colonized by bacteria that help consume the toxins your fish produce. This means that instead of multiple 100% changes a week, you do one partial change a week.
As far as feeding is concerned, the amount and frequency other posters have described is right on the money. 2 pellets twice a day, or 3 pellets once a day. However, I suggest switching to a different brand. Hikari pellets are of poor quality and are not a suitable staple food for bettas. If you look on the ingredients list, you will note that meat is not the first ingredient, instead, it is wheat something or other. Bettas are carnivores, so wheat is of no nutritional benefit to them. You need a food with a higher protein/meat content. Hikari foods also have MSG in them. Ew.
I suggest a higher quality pellet food--I use OmegaOne betta buffet pellets because it uses multiple whole meats. Other good brands are Atison's betta pellets, Ken's Betta crumbles, and New Life Spectrum betta pellets. Always soak any dry food you feed your betta in a bit of tank water to prevent bloating. It's also a good idea to supplement with frozen foods like hikari's spirulina brine shrimp and blood worms. Never feed your betta freeze-dried foods.
Bettas are very small inexpensive fish, but taking care of them means you have to invest your money in a few key items: an aquarium of at least 2.5 gallons so that it can be properly heated, bigger is always better. Bigger aquariums are easier to maintain and keep stable, and are generally cheaper per gallon the bigger you go. You will need an adjustable heater with a thermostat so that you can set the temperature and keep the temperature stable--bettas are tropical fish that need temperatures of 78-83 degrees. You will need a filter if you want to cycle the aquarium, it should have a weak flow. Sponge filters, power filters, and canister filters are best. If the aquarium has a light, it must be LED or Fluorescent--incandescent light puts off too much heat and can cause the temperature to fluctuate.