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Old 07-01-2010, 01:00 PM   #1 
TheJadeBetta
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Feeding, Conditioning, and Storing?

I have heard VE, Microworms, BBS, Infusoria, and Boiled Egg Yolk are the best fry food.
How will I know if they will eat any of this?
How much do I feed of each, I don't want to overfeed them?
Where is some good places to get the live cultures?

Does anyone else have any more suggestions on storing the fry?

What are some ways to condition the pair?
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:57 PM   #2 
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I have tried a little bit of everything and talked to breeders from downsouthbettas.com to greatwhitebettas.com and aquastar71 from aquabid which is a thai breeder anyway this is what i found to hatch baby brine you have to time everything so they hatch when its time to feed the fry the other thing about baby brine shrimp is to many is known to cause swim bladder disorders and baby brine dont live but 2 days 3 if your lucky and there not as fresh and then you have to buy more and eggs and stuff so i start baby brine and frozen baby brine feeding around the 2 or 3rd week and then i watch to make sure i dont feed to much.

The next thing is infusoria i have done my research on this and found out that putting lettuce in water and let it grow bacteria is not infusoria but does have stuff for the fry to eat what it is would be like your aquarium plants rotting and making green water and stuff

So they say infusoria is when you take hay that horses eat and put in a bucket of water let it age outside and it will grow a culture of some living organisms and thats what the fry eat the problem with this there is no way to tell if anything is growing and how much unless you have a micro scope and the stuff is messy and stink's something serious and will foul the water up fast

Now this is my favorite egg yolk there cheap easy to make you can boil some right at the last minute its a on the go type thing that just makes taking care of a fish room a little easier specially when theres everything else you have to take care of on a normal day anyway when i talked to the thai breeder aquastar he told me this is what he has used for years with high success rates and low fry death ratio i will feed my fry egg yolk for 2 or 3 weeks and then baby brine and egg yolk and then baby brine and crushed up flake food and freeze dried blood worms crushed to a real fine powder you want to give them different food types it does seem to help

As far as the other stuff i have never used any its just like growing cultures and stuff so i dont deal with them i have watched people do it but i dont like it thats just me everyone has there own way thou

And as far as when you should start feeding thats a good question i start feeding mine the day after i take the daddy out which is like the 5th day after hatching and i take a cup put egg yolk in it with some aquarium water stir it up and dip the straw or whatever in it then dip it into the aquarium you will see it cloud the water a little dont put to much and on the 10th day i add gold mystery snails and black mystery snails they eat alge and waste left over since i cant do any cleaning for a while they go around and help they move slow and have antennas so they feel around before they move on top to eat it so that lets the fry get out of the way hope i could help...
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:08 PM   #3 
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Okay thank you.

So you don't do water changes for the first two weeks?
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:58 PM   #4 
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Quote:
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So you don't do water changes for the first two weeks?
Oops, that is what I get for reading and typing at the same time. When do you make the first water change?
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:23 PM   #5 
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I start mine out on Vinegar Eels for the first week. Then I go to microworms and BBS. You just have to use your best judgement when figuring out how much to feed. Make sure you siphon the debris off the tank bottom daily.

I did my first water change after one week. Now I'm doing 50% every 3 days until the babies are a little older and I can do daily changes easier. I siphon the bottom of the tanks every day though.

If you want I can sell you some cultures of Vinegar Eels, Micro worms, Bannana worms, and walter worms.
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:34 PM   #6 
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I only feed live foods to my fry and I have read about the egg yolk feeding and tried it myself, personally it was too messy for my taste, but I hear great success with its use.

Since I spawn in a more natural set-up-10g full to the top with water, very heavy planted with (95% plants) soil/sand substrate with stem, rosette, fern, moss species, as well as floating plants that are also used for nest building.

I maintain 80F water temp for spawning and for the fry-I get hatch with 24-28 hours at this temp and found that too high of temp and the eggs hatch too fast resulting in weaker fry.

Along with the common snails-pond, ramshorn, trumpet-my tank makes a lot of natural foods with infusoria being the fry first live foods they get free range and the other micro-critters that grow in natural planted tanks.

I add my first live food when the fry are about 7 days old or 3 days after they are free swimming more or less, male usually removed on day 4 and plastic veggie wrap used to cover the top of the tank to keep the air above the water warm and humid to prevent issue when the labyrinth organ develops.

First added live food on day 7 is newly hatched BBS with the yolk sac intact, carefully avoiding any egg casings of the BBS added to the fry tank, often when fry eat too many empty BBS egg shells it can cause blockage and then cause swim bladder problems and death now and then later due to deformities.

I watch the fry eat and look at their tummy, when the tummy is nice and round and pink/orange in color I know they are full. Overfeeding should be avoided.

I feed the NHBBS 2-3 times a day depending on the fry appearance, activity, number of fry...etc....

Once I start adding live foods I start making water changes, I use a homemade siphon from airline tubing and a couple of chop-stick twist tied together and my thumb works as the control valve and make 50% daily water changes.

I use gravity to replace the water with the same siphon I use to clean with.
I use a plastic bucket to collect the dirty water and once I check it for fry that may have been siphoned by accident-I dump the water and fill with clean like temp water and place it higher than the tank and use gravity flow to return the water to the tank slowly for the first two weeks of the daily water changes- then I get more aggressive and poor the water in the tank.

I make daily water changes after I start adding live foods to prevent several issues that can happen in a fry tank-water quality is so important to prevent- health, growth and development problems.

The decay of live foods or any foods can produce ammonia that even the active growth of plants can't keep up with before it can affect the delicate fry, poor water quality breeds bad parasites/pathogens, lowers immunity, stress and it can snow ball pretty fast with fry.

I don't use any filtration of any type in my fry tanks because I have been able to keep water quality and oxygen levels stable with daily water changes and active plant growth of the right types of plants.

You also need to dilute the stunting hormone that is emitted by the fry-this can only be done with water changes in a closed system. The stunting hormone naturally occur in most species of fish as a way of natural selection in a sense-survival of the biggest and strongest and we can control that to a point.
I also will start to move some of the larger fry at 2-3 weeks of age to larger grow-out tanks to give the smaller fry a better chance to develop by using a brine shrimp net.

By the time they are going into the second week I will add white worms that I culture to the mix of NHBBS-white worms are high in fat so I don't feed too much of them until they are in the 4 week area.

As they grow I will start feeding HUFA supplemented BBS-once the BBS have absorbed their yolk sac they can have very little nutrition and due to poor nutrition the fry can be seen spinning toward the bottom of the tank-some die and others that live can have health issues later in life, but most usually die. This can be avoided by supplementing the BBS with highly unsaturated fatty acid (HUFA) I use a product called "Selcon" for saltwater fish and BBS are saltwater creatures.

As the fry get bigger I add daphnia, mosquito larva, seed shrimp...etc...
I will start adding in the mix with live foods my homemade food once the fry are going into the 6-8 weeks of age and at this point most if not all fry have been moved to larger grow-out tanks with only the smallest still in the spawning tank and the ones I can't find or blend in so well you can't see until they are half inch and still in the tank with a new pair spawning

This is the only down-fall of using this type of set up in my experience-can't find all the fry

I start to separate the males I plan to sell usually at the 12-18 week mark-I use pint size canning jars and make 100% daily water changes and this is when I introduce pellet foods to wean them off live food and my homemade food-as most don't feed the way I do.
I have found that by using this size jar I get rapid growth/development of fins to catch up with their body.

By 6 months they will be placed in 1/2-to-1g size container-but usually I don't have many at this stage as most have been sold by 18 weeks, only the best are kept for spawning.

The males I plan to keep are kept in a large heavy planted tank and never separated until they are used for spawning. I have found that keeping the males together that they can be housed for up to a year without fighting in a large heavy planted tank, but once separate they can never be housed together again.

This method had worked for me for the past 3 years, before that I used the bare bottom tank method.
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:51 PM   #7 
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So it is pretty much everyone has different opinion.
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Old 07-01-2010, 06:16 PM   #8 
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That right...lot of ways to spawn and rear fry that all work...its finding what works for you, once you know the basics you go from that point..kinda trial and error.....and what works one day with one spawn may not work with another.....
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:56 PM   #9 
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So I think he was asking what to feed and when to do a water change but anyway I only fill my 10 gallon half way up so when the eggs are falling and when I remove the male its only a short distance to the surface so the dad don't work as hard getting them back in the nest and they don't work hard trying to swim up to the surface and on day 8 or so I will add a gallon with the air line tubing I get a sphion going and it slowly adds water because when you suck stuff off the bottom you end up sucking up fry and stuff that's why I use gold mystery snail to keep the bottom clean and with the tank half full I can add a gallon of water for 4 or 5 weeks untill the tank is finally full and then by that time the fry are 5 or 6 weeks old so doing water changes are easier anyway so I would add a gallon when the fry are one week old then every week after that keep adding a gallon
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:01 PM   #10 
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Oh. So you use the snail to just clean the bottom of the tank and just slowly add water?
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