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Old 07-08-2010, 02:26 PM   #11 
FloridaBettas239
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I would get bottom feeder's they do help a lot they eat all the food the betta miss so it dont just sit at the bottom and rot even if you cant see the food you will see it in your number's when you test your tank. Yes bottom feeder's poop but the bacteria kill's that so they do help if your going to have a cycled tank with bacteria that keep's everything good why not have some bottom feeder's to help with left over food. Im sure they help more than they hurt or they wouldnt of posted that on an aquarium care web site.

Because your gravel has a living bacteria in it to that help's break down the ammonia from poop that land's on it but now you over feed a tank a little bit for a couple day's and your number's will go up i think a little poop from bottom feeder's out weigh's the old food sitting there getting nasty and thats what it said on the tetra care help and there the pro's but everyone has there own opinion.

Also it sound's like he was on his way to having a cycled tank. he was leaving it filled up and trying to ask how to get the air to slow down and what kind of filter or if he should get one and said any tip's so it sounded like he was on his way to a cycled tank and wanted tip's but i wasnt going to post what i thought i posted the fact's from a site not my opinion so i posted the water change chart for a cycled tank. If you dont want to cycle it my friend then just do 90 to 100 % WC every 2 or 3 day's and when doing it siphon from the bottom if you can to get all the trash that has setteled.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:51 PM   #12 
meganrae
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Alright, here are some pictures that kinda show the tank. The bamboo isn't real, nor are the rock things. I was thinking about investing in some silk plants, but none seem to have the proper height to reach the top of the tank...

Also, about filters, what are the differences between sponge filters, and the other types/what would be best for my little betta? Does cycling happen on it's own with a filter? As long as I check the water and keep the ammonia low?

Thanks for all of your guys' help! I'm definitely going to get him a filter.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:15 PM   #13 
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If the picture went threw this is a sponge filter it never has to be replaced the only thing you have to do is clean it with old tank water when you do a water change. This would be the cheapest to buy at around 8 dollars and you already have the air pump.


So if this pic went threw then this is your next option and it take's replacment filter's every month so you have to buy it for 15 or 20 and buy replacment filter for it every month.

There's good and bad about both of them i have ran both of them i ran a 55 gallon with sponge filter its up to you i dont like how the sponge filter just sits in your take like an eye sore and the air line is running out the tank it dont look as clean as the hanging filter's.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:17 PM   #14 
Adastra
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A sponge filter is basically what it sounds like, a sponge with an air lift. The sponge is attached to a tube and an air pump, the bubbling water sucks water through the sponge. These are good because they cause very little current, and for low bioload tanks they're very effective. The drawback is they tend to be rather big and unsightly, some people also don't like the noise of the air pump.

Power filters pump water up the intake tube, so that the water spills over into a reservoir that holds filter floss and carbon, this is where your bacteria lives. The filter's job is to circulate water over the floss so the bacteria can process the fish waste in the water column. These filters are less obtrusive than the sponges, but they can create a lot of current and some people don't like the waterfall noises they make. If you don't mind the noise, you can easily create a baffle for your filter out of a soda bottle. Personally, I never change the cartridges in my power filters--this is where your bacteria lives, you don't want to throw that out. The reason the company wants you to replace them is because the carbon is ineffective after about a month--your aquarium doesn't really need carbon, so you can just leave the cartridge in there, rinsing it off every once in awhile. I like using fresh carbon, so I usually cut a slit in the floss, empty out the old carbon, and replace it with new higher quality carbon.

Canister filters are similar to power filters, except the reservoir they use is a closed canister with a lot more space to put in filter media, some are large enough to put heaters in. These often have a spray bar rather than a waterfall outlet like a power filter has, this makes them extremely quiet. The plus with these is that they are very customizable, you can point the current anywhere, and fill it with whatever you want. The downside is that they don't aerate the water, so when you cycle with a canister you must add additional aeration.

I suggest doing your research on different types and looking up reviews on different brands before you go shopping. This site is a great resource, lots of variety and very good prices: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com even if you don't want to buy online, this is a good way to look up possible products that you can find product reviews for elsewhere.

As far as cycling, this isn't something you really can just let happen on its own. You need a liquid master test kit, this is not optional no matter what method you use to cycle. I prefer doing the fishless method, because you get a more stable bacteria colony, it's less work, and it's the kindest to your fish. You would have to put your fish into a temporary container, such as a rubbermaid/sterilite plastic storage bin (4 gallon bins are like $3 at Walmart or Target) and do regular water changes on that container while the tank cycles. These containers are ideal for bettas and can be safely heated. They also make great hospital tanks since you shouldn't use medication in a cycled tank, and they're also great for quarantine if you decide to get new tank mates at a later time. This sounds kind of like a pain in the butt, but remember, if you do it right, you only have to do it once. It's worth it.

You should research the nitrogen cycle on your own so that you fully understand what goes into cultivating and maintaining a bacteria colony. I really don't want to type it all out right now, lol.

Last edited by Adastra; 07-08-2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:20 PM   #15 
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That is a nice tank i would get a filter on there. so your not having to take everything out of that tank and clean it so much. because that tank is really nice i would want to set it up and be done. not cleaning everyday its like i tell people i want a aquarium not a full time job. lol as far as the ammonia goes once your tank is cycled and everything is all good you wont have to worry about anything but water changes and stuff and bettas dont put that much off now gold fish thats nasty but bettas are pretty clean fish..
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