Betta Fish Care  
Go Back   Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care > Betta Fish Care
Check out the eBook Betta Fish Care Made Easy
betta fish
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-16-2011, 08:11 AM   #1291 
inkrealm
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pluto, North Carolina [ mountain region ]
i'm cycling my tank right now with the fish in, and doing daily 50% water changes. my question was though, when I do this, should I poke through the gravel too for waste and stir it up and then suck it out, or should I wait till it's cycled before starting this? and once it's cycled all I need to do is stir through it to stir up and remove the waste, correct? if I clean the rest of it off too much, it will knock the bacteria back off-balance? also do I change the filter cartridges still, or will this mess it up?
last thing, if a plant dies and I have to remove it and add a new one, with the cycle be thrown a few days?

I have a five gallon filtered and heated tank. thin layer of gravel except where the plants are which is a couple inches high to cover the pots so he won't be dumb and cut his fin again >^< <3
and it helps to hold them down too P:
three live plants, anubias, oriental swords, and moneywort. and one ( very soft and very small ) plastic plant that he only uses to sleep/hide behind sometimes. the plant he ripped his fin on was a tall pink one, even though it was soft, and I removed it.
he has a betta bed that's always getting moved, so probably will never hold any bacteria well, and a plastic ball I alternate with others of different colors, though he doesn't play with it right now. that's pretty much the contents, except the thermometer P: his heater is a 50 watt right now but his tank temp seems to only get to high seventies, really never above 80, and sometimes it gets into mid seventies on really cold mornings >^< so maybe I should get a higher watt? x-x" I've even seen it sink to lower seventies on very rare occasions. -^-" I'm sure it's not exact temp measurement but it's roughly and that's still no good since they're tropical, especially once winter gets here. D:
he's still very active and friendly and curious, but this still can't possibly be good for him so I want to fix it asap especially since he tore his fin and I dot want the coldness to promote finrot... :/
thankyou ^-^;

Last edited by inkrealm; 05-16-2011 at 08:17 AM.
inkrealm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 10:36 AM   #1292 
Canuck Fins
Member
 
Canuck Fins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by moniibettalover View Post
I've been reading stuff on this forum and number of times i found people saying that flake food aint good for bettas. Why? My betta doesnt mind the tropical fish flake food im giving him :)
I think you got a good answer on this already, but I want to add one more point. Pellets float; flakes tend to sink making them harder to remove uneaten. Uneaten food rots in the tank and fouls the water. Yes, we all do water changes to fix that, but the more you can do to keep the water quality up, the better.
Canuck Fins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 10:41 AM   #1293 
Canuck Fins
Member
 
Canuck Fins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Canada
I'll answer what I can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by inkrealm View Post
i'm cycling my tank right now with the fish in, and doing daily 50% water changes. my question was though, when I do this, should I poke through the gravel too for waste and stir it up and then suck it out, or should I wait till it's cycled before starting this? and once it's cycled all I need to do is stir through it to stir up and remove the waste, correct? if I clean the rest of it off too much, it will knock the bacteria back off-balance? also do I change the filter cartridges still, or will this mess it up?
I'm not sure about water changes while starting cycling fish-in so I can't comment. The bacteria is in the filter so you don't need to change it. All it will ever need is to be swished in old tank water once a month or so when you are doing a water changed. The filter is the biggest home for the bacteria.

Quote:
his heater is a 50 watt right now but his tank temp seems to only get to high seventies, really never above 80, and sometimes it gets into mid seventies on really cold mornings >^< so maybe I should get a higher watt? x-x" I've even seen it sink to lower seventies on very rare occasions. -^-" I'm sure it's not exact temp measurement but it's roughly and that's still no good since they're tropical, especially once winter gets here. D:
he's still very active and friendly and curious, but this still can't possibly be good for him so I want to fix it asap especially since he tore his fin and I dot want the coldness to promote finrot... :/
thankyou ^-^;
The heater should be consistent. You don't want much for temperature swings if you can help it. Maybe you could ask about your specific heater to see if it's a good one. Finrot is not about temperature. A cold fish doesn't get fin rot. A fish in dirty water will get fin rot. That's about keeping good clean living conditions for him.
Canuck Fins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 10:59 AM   #1294 
inkrealm
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pluto, North Carolina [ mountain region ]
Quote:
The bacteria is in the filter so you don't need to change it. All it will ever need is to be swished in old tank water once a month or so when you are doing a water changed. The filter is the biggest home for the bacteria.
ahhh, so I won't need re-fills either then? my parents will love that :'3 good thing we didn't open the boxes yet :P
I wasn't sure because there's the filter cartridge, and then there's the little filter layer it goes through again before it hits the tank. I take it I swish both of these then?

Quote:
The heater should be consistent. You don't want much for temperature swings if you can help it. Maybe you could ask about your specific heater to see if it's a good one. Finrot is not about temperature. A cold fish doesn't get fin rot. A fish in dirty water will get fin rot. That's about keeping good clean living conditions for him.
the heater is by Tetra: this one
it's pre-set and has a sensor that's supposed to tell it when to start and when to stop. I've seen a few other peoples' photos with one in them. I know if he's cold he's supposed to go to the bottom of the tank and sit, so maybe it's the thermo and not the heater that's the issue? I don't know what brand it was ><; it wasn't even five dollars though, so I could see it not being exact...
and I knew it was from dirty water, but someone had told me off-temp water would make it more likely. his should be clean, since I do 50 water changes daily... I haven't done one today because the levels were completely down 0-o but one day shouldn't be enough time to get dirty enough for fin rot if it's filtered and had a 50 change yesterday, >.<
thanks for the help, ^-^
inkrealm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 02:16 PM   #1295 
JKfish
Member
 
JKfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Inkrealm, during fish in cycles, all you need is 50% water changes once a week. If your fish starts looking sick in any way at all (droopy fins, stress marks, pale, etc), do a 50% chance and do a gravel vacuum. since you have a finrotty fish, I would do a gravel vacuum once a week when you do your 50% water change until he's better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moniibettalover View Post
I've been reading stuff on this forum and number of times i found people saying that flake food aint good for bettas. Why? My betta doesnt mind the tropical fish flake food im giving him :)
Since you have the answers, when you go to get pellets, make sure the minimum ammount of protien is 40%, and the first three ingredients are some form of meat (fish, shrimp, fish meal, etc)
JKfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 02:55 PM   #1296 
inkrealm
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pluto, North Carolina [ mountain region ]
JKfish- thanks, I was told every day, but I did notice today there was nothing to change out so I skipped it. I'm watching the levels, especially in case of spikes, I was told to change at first signs though. is a little ammonia and nitrate and nitrite required to be present to do the cycle? or should I clean it out any time I find it?
as to the last bit, I noticed today the tips of his fins are clear, so he had had a miner beginning case of it, but the tips are growing back now :D I'll continue to be careful though.
inkrealm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:14 PM   #1297 
Canuck Fins
Member
 
Canuck Fins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Canada
Inkrealm, in the cycle, ammonia will spike and drop to zero followed by the nitrItes spiking and dropping to zero, followed by the nitrAtes spiking and dropping to low (<5ppm). You will see all three as you go through cycling. When the nitrItes show, you should start getting zero ammonia readings. I didn't cycle with fish in so I don't know about the water changes through it, but just know you will see all three.
Canuck Fins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:22 PM   #1298 
inkrealm
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pluto, North Carolina [ mountain region ]
@Canuck
should I leave some ammonia present then though? like, not a ton, but a low amount ( say 0.2 or lower ), like the way I had it explained, the ammonia is changed into nitrites, which in turn eventually are changed to nitrates, by all the scientific processes ofcourse they don't just magically change >.<; but does that mean I should leave some ammonia present to be fed off of?
or do you not know that, ha, sorry ^-^; thanks :D

although I guess you could answer this even if you don't know that, did you change your water while you were cycling even though there wasn't a fish? or did you just let it go through every stage without removing water?

Last edited by inkrealm; 05-16-2011 at 03:31 PM.
inkrealm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 05:13 PM   #1299 
JKfish
Member
 
JKfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Inkrealm, when you do a fish in cycle, if anything (ammonia or nitrites) ever gets to .25 ppm (or above) try to bring it to 0. This makes cycling slower, but you want to keep your water safe for your fish as well. Once you get a steady cycle, nitrates should never be above 20 ppm (10 or less is about where it should be when you do your water change)
JKfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 05:59 PM   #1300 
inkrealm
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pluto, North Carolina [ mountain region ]
ah, so as it hits the 0.2, great, thankyou for both numbers so much, it's greatly appreciated by the both of us.... I hope he'll e a happy healthy bright-colored boy soon :D
inkrealm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Quick Question CodeRed Betta Fish Care 10 07-30-2009 03:23 PM
Quick question. IonBaller07 Betta Fish Care 21 06-21-2009 05:00 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.