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Old 11-06-2011, 08:24 AM   #2651 
Myates
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You don't need to treat for torn fins- but for fin rot, and if it is, it's easier to move him to a QT tank.

Fin rot the edging will be black and crusty looking, falling off in small chunks.. or white cottony like growth on the edging.

If they are ripped long ways it would most likely be a decoration or the filter is too strong- usually fuses back together after a few days to a week.

If the edges are in a shape of a C or U, sometimes a V, it would most likely be him tail biting.

For torn fins, just keep him in his home, you can up the water change % each week a little to keep the water extra clean to avoid rot. A lot of people use Stress Coat to help promote fin regrowth.

If Ich you will want to do this:
•Symptoms: Betta has white dots (looks like he was sprinkled with salt) all over his body and head, even eyes. Lethargic, No appetite, Clamped Fins, Might dart and scratching against decor
•Treatment: You can treat Ick either conservatively or with medication. Ick is a parasite. Because ick is contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it. Ick is temperature sensitive: Leave your betta in the community tank and raise temperature to 85 F. Then you can choose to treat with salt or medication. Conservative: Add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Perform daily 100% water changes to remove fallen parasites before they can reproduce. Replace the water with the right amount of salt. Do not continue this treatment for more than 14 days. If it fails or you do not want to use salt, treat with Jungle’s Parasite Clear, API Super Ick Cure, or Kordon Rid Ich Plus. If your betta lives in a jar/bowl, then it can be difficult to heat the water. There are heaters for smaller containers, but you can also float the quarantine container in a larger heated tank during treatment. Do a full water change every day and add an appropriate amount of medication to the water.

If there is fin rot, then the AQ salt treatment for Ich will also work to rid the rot.
I would just recommend making 100% sure he has ich before going through with the treatment, as excess usage of salt has potential to harm their internal workings, such as kidney failure. It's best to make sure before doing any treatment.

Turning off the filter for the whole period of treatment you risk (well, imo it will happen) killing off all your beneficial bacteria and when you turn it back on, all the dead good bacteria will be flushed into your tank which can be harmful to your little guy..

Good luck!

Last edited by Myates; 11-06-2011 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:03 PM   #2652 
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How would I go about doing a 50% water change?
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:11 PM   #2653 
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My question: Are there any heaters that are safe to use in a plastic/acrylic tank?? I don't want to melt it... It's 1.5 gallons. I wouldn't need it to heat THAT much. The water tends to only stay 1 degree or two below where Rudolphus wants it to be. I'm just scared to buy one and then find out its melted through the tank (im not really sure how hot they actually get i guess)


edit: the people at petco all looked at me like i was stupid when i asked them about a beta heater in the first place >.> so they're not really any help
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:33 AM   #2654 
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Yep, there are some out there who just don't know much when it comes to bettas..

I would say a 10-15 watt would be safe. I haven't heard of any melting through a plastic/acrylic tank that is designed for fish- doesn't mean it hasn't happened. But generally it's safe and doesn't cause trouble. A lot of members here, including myself, use critter keepers and haven't had issues.
Just make sure to keep an eye on the thermometer to make sure it is working properly, as sometimes the lower watt ones don't always heat up too well. You could probably go with a 25 watt one that is adjustable, that way you can play around with the temps to keep it where you want it easier.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:21 PM   #2655 
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my quick question: is it good if i have a thin layer of algae (green, not brown) around the tank, like ALL the walls?
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:14 PM   #2656 
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im having a bit of trouble with liquid water test kits. nutrafin NH3 and the API PH set have a limited colour range for results. i found api NH3 easy to read and same goes for nutrafin PH 6.0-7.6. ny nutrafin ph is probably not going to last another 2 months and i purchased API freshwater master kit. the result chart for the API 6.6-7.2 is hard to distinguish, the hutrafin also has .3 increments but the colors are easier to read as the lime green only starts at 6.6->green 7.0 and navy blue 7.2. are there any tricks to distinguish API 6.8-7.2?
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:49 PM   #2657 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrowntailTwitchy57 View Post
my quick question: is it good if i have a thin layer of algae (green, not brown) around the tank, like ALL the walls?
Not good, but not dangerous.. some snails will eat it, otherwise, should wipe it off when you do water changes. If your tank is planted, then that could be the source, or you may be having the light on too much, or it gets a lot of sun. It's not going to harm your fish with a thin layer, but it's good to just go ahead and clean it off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heykate View Post
How would I go about doing a 50% water change?
Cup your little guy, using a cup or pitcher remove half of the water, dose the tank with the conditioner, add in like-temp water. Float your little guy in the tank for about 15-20 minutes, removing some of the water out of the cup and adding in tank water about halfway through. Then release.
If you don't do full water changes, then you can use a siphon to siphon the substrate until half the water is gone- smaller tanks you would use a smaller siphon. Or you can stir the substrate and cup out as much waste as you can.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:26 PM   #2658 
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ok thanks i will wipe it off when i change her water, and i leave her light on from 7:00am-8:30pm
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:31 PM   #2659 
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question.. how long can betta go without food?
i'm planning to go to the beach during spring break & i wanted to know how i should feed them.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:39 PM   #2660 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myates View Post
Yep, there are some out there who just don't know much when it comes to bettas..

I would say a 10-15 watt would be safe. I haven't heard of any melting through a plastic/acrylic tank that is designed for fish- doesn't mean it hasn't happened. But generally it's safe and doesn't cause trouble. A lot of members here, including myself, use critter keepers and haven't had issues.
Just make sure to keep an eye on the thermometer to make sure it is working properly, as sometimes the lower watt ones don't always heat up too well. You could probably go with a 25 watt one that is adjustable, that way you can play around with the temps to keep it where you want it easier.


http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-HEATER-A...0709118&sr=8-1 was looking at this, just didn't want it to melt my plastic of my little 1 gallon tank!!


thank you sooo much btw! You've been so helpful.
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