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Old 08-02-2010, 10:29 AM   #1 
Drift
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Question Planted tank questions

Last Monday, I refilled my tank and started to re-cycle it. It previously was cycled for a year. Same filter and substrate. Tuesday I planted it, some Anacharis, Anubias, and Java moss. I also put in 5 API root tabs. Started Stress Zyme. I have a 15 watt bulb, it's a 10 gallon, and it maintains a steady 80 degrees. I've been leaving the light on for 12 hours. It receives some sunlight, but it opposite side of the room of the window so not direct.
Friday I measured the water because I finally had money to buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. PH-7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 10.
Tested it today, Monday, PH-7.4, Ammonia 0.5, Nitrite 2.0, Nitrate 10ppm.
I pulled the filter out and placed a new one as it was covered in so much gunk it was getting clogged. I tried rinsing it out in a bucket of tank water but it was still really thick, so I put a new one in.
Last night I had noticed my Anacharis looks like its dying. Some of the leaves are brown. Anubias and moss looks fantastic still.
Any idea why they're dying? Also, how do you go about cycling a planted tank. I couldn't find how to do so fishless any where on the internet. It seemed like on the cycling article here on bettafish.com that it was a different process.
I've never had live plants before that have lived. Any suggestions are helpful.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:13 AM   #2 
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The 5 root tabs could be a problem since you don't have any root feeding plants, at most in a 10g tank with root feeding plants like swords- 1 root tab is all that you should need, also you need more stem plants to help with cycling and to use up nutrients to help prevent an algae bloom.
I don't know how to do fishless cycling with live plants and with the right amount and types of live plants that are actively growing they should keep the fish safe for fish-in cycling along with some water changes.
How old are your bulbs, if they are a year old they need to be changed, also the hood or plastic area between the bulb and water make sure it is clean and free of any deposits and/or algae for better light penetration.
Make sure you shake and bang the #2 nitrate reagent bottle, it tends to settle and give false readings.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:31 AM   #3 
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I'm going to get a new light bulb today. Actually in 20 minutes or so I'm leaving for That Fish Place, was going to go tomorrow but the sooner the better.
I don't want to put in my betta because i'm pretty sure he has columnaris and it's easier to keep the smaller tank clean because I don't have any substrate just a floating log and his barrel decorations. He's getting better though.
Any plants you recommend? I'll go through and pull out the root tabs I remember where I put them all. Should I use the liquid plant fertilizer then?
I could possibly move my youngest CT in while it's cycling and switch them back out when Bubba is all healed.
The glass between the tank and light is clean. I cleaned everything down in the tank last week. I'm going to try and get a higher watt bulb . I'll bring my hole hood with me and see what I can find. XD
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:45 AM   #4 
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I would stay in the 15-20w- 6500-6700k bulb on a 10g tank unless you want to add CO2
Plants-sword, crypts, sagittaria, vallisneria, mexican oak leaf, hygrophilia, rotala, ludwigia, wisteria, water lettuce are all good low-mod light plants
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:07 PM   #5 
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My light hood only takes up to 19w, so thats fine. I bought one today, but it wouldnt work. Haha, such awesome luck.
I'm going tomorrow to get some plants. Thank you for the list of plants its super helpful. :)
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:32 PM   #6 
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If you can find a Life-Glo 15 watt flourescent bulb, just one worked magic on my 10 gallon. My Amazon Sword outgrew the tank in no time! Also Seachem Flourish Comp. will do wonders as well.
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:45 PM   #7 
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I bought a Coral Life Nutri-grow light, 15w. I think it's the equivalent of what you recommended. We'll see how everything ends up growing. :)
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