One of the first things to consider is what are you going to breed? Where do I get my pair? What should they look like?
The old saying 'excellence is its own reward' definitely applies to breeding bettas. You should get the best breeding stock you can possibly afford. Even if you don't plan on showing your fish, you'll be happier with the end results if you invest in a really good pair, and don't just buy a pretty betta from your LFS.
Try to resist too much experimentation - 'what will I get if I cross this to...' is almost never the best way to approach a breeding, unless you have a very specific goal and are knowledgeable about genetics. You'll end up with a hodg-podge of colors that won't breed true.
So - you found the pair you want and are ready to buy? Consider getting a second pair of the same type. Nothing is more frustrating than buying a pair and realizing they're not compatible - or losing one of the fish. If you have two pairs from a really good line you'll still have some breeding options if something happens to one of the fish.
Supplies you will need
5 or 10 gal aquarium (your choice)
50 watt or 75 watt heater
Tight fitting hood w/ light
Indian Almond Leaf of Betta Spa
Plants (floating and Java Moss)
Small square of bubble wrap or styro cup cut in half lengthwise
Divider for the 10 gal tank
Small air pump w/ air control valve installed in line
NEXT STEP: Seting up the spawn tank
There should be no gravel or substrate of any kind, just a bare bottom. This will make siphoning the gunk from the bottom much easier later on and without sucking up fry. The cup or bubble wrap square provides a “target” point for the male to build his bubble nest. It should be at the furthest point away from the filter. Fill the tank to a 4 to 5 inch depth and let set for 15 minutes. Making sure the sides are dry, float the target on the water surface, then you can use scotch tape to attach it to the side of the tank. Now plug in the heater and set for between 82° and 85°, in the mean time you can start the filter. Adjust the air flow so that it bubbles once a second. If you have a lot of floating plants you could turn it a little higher as long as it creates nearly no surface movement in the bubble nest area, as this would destroy the bubble nest. You can add the Indian Almond Leaf or the spa now. The leaf will probably float for about a day before it sinks. You can also add the plants now. I always arrange some around the heater and filter area to create a better hiding place for the female. Leave this set up running for 24 hours and adjust the heater as necessary to achieve the desired temp.
NEXT STEP: CONDITIONING THE PAIR
Now that you have the start of your line, you need to condition your pair to get them ready for spawning.
The BEST foods for conditioning are live - whiteworms, fruit flies, blackworms (another topic altogether) and live bloodworms. There's just something about live foods that bring out the best in our bettas. And will help bring them into condition to give you that F1 spawn.
But you can also use frozen blood worm's & frozen brine shrimp
NEXT STEP: INTRODUCING THE PAIR
Bettas are fighting fish, and one of the most tense moments for a new breeder is the moment they put their female together with the male. There is always a risk that one of your fish may damage or kill the other. And it's not always the female who is at risk - many males have been killed by a very dominant female!
There are many ways to put your pair together - it varies from breeder to breeder. The classic American way is to have the pair set up in the spawn tank, and once the female is barred up and the male has built a respectable bubblenest, either release her from the chimney or remove the divider.
I time this very specifically. When it's time to put the pair together, I do it at night, just before 'lights out' in the fishroom. That way, the pair is in the same space, but is much more subdued. They seem to sense each others presence, and each others pheramones in the water. But because they don't see each other as well in the dark, and they're accustomed to sleeping at night, they don't seem to damage each other as much. Often, by morning, as daylight has slowly lit my fishroom, they have started spawning.
Once they're released, try to disturb them as little as possible. I cover the front of my spawn tank with a dark towel, and lift it occasionally just to make sure everything is going okay. It's normal for the pair to have some nipping and tearing of fins - it's the price you pay for breeding fighting fish.
If you see that one of the fish has open wounds you should consider terminating the spawn and removing that fish for treatment. Sometimes they're not ready - they may be too young, or their nature just might be too agressive to make them good breeders.
NEXT STEP: FEEDING THE FRY
One of the first things I fed my fry was egg yolk. Its easy, handy and works well, also very high in protein and vitamins.
Its a real easy food and most everyone has this around the house.
1. Chicken Eggs
2. An old icecube tray or two.
3. A mister or sprayer what ever you prefer to call it.
REMEMBER EVERYONE THIS IS JUST THE BASICS, I EVEN DO THING'S A LITTLE DIFFERENT THEN ON HERE. THIS IS TO GET YOU STARTED, EVERYONE PUT'S THERE OWN TWIST ON THING'S. I POSTED THIS TO HELP OUT THE UP AND COMING BREEDER'S. SO THEY DONT JUST GET OPINION'S. EVERYTHING ABOVE IS IBC HANDBOOK INFO,
Thank you everyone and breed responsible.