Betta Fish Care  
Go Back   Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care > Breeding Betta Fish
Check out the eBook Betta Fish Care Made Easy
betta fish
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-15-2010, 12:33 PM   #1 
SwimmyTheBetta
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Breeding Supply List

I just got my female in from Thailand today :) I won't be spawning for about 2 more weeks so I can be sure my pair is conditioned and my micro worm and vinegar eel cultures are doing well, but can some experienced breeders please check over this list and tell me if I need to add/remove anything? Thanks :)

>10 gallon tank, bare bottom
>Fully submersible heater
>Thermometer
>Sponge filter
>Micro Worm Culture
>Vinegar Eel Culture
>2 BBS Hatcheries
>6 packets of BBS eggs with 85% hatch rate
>IAL extract
>MelaFix
>PimaFix
>Baster for feeding fry
>2 Dwarf Hairgrass Plants
>2 Micro Sword Plants
>5 Anacharis Plants

Also, I've read some people do water changes as soon as fry are free swimming while others wait til the fry are 2 weeks old. Since I've read bettas secrete a hormone that stunts the growth of their siblings I was thinking I should start once they were free swimming, but I would appreciate advice from experienced breeders.

Thanks :)
SwimmyTheBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 12:45 PM   #2 
indjo
TFK Moderator
 
indjo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
10g is big enough to postpone wc. But if you're afraid of stunt growth, do daily or every other day wc (30 - 50 %) when you start feeding them. The amount of wc, IMO, depends on the number of fry you have.
indjo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2010, 05:13 PM   #3 
MrVampire181
Member
 
MrVampire181's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Be sure to water down Melafix and Pimafix, it'll kill your bettas. My advice is to add the proper amount to a gallon of treated water and use the water instead of the meds, that's pretty much how BettaFix is made.

As for stunting, I fill the tank up as soon as I remove the male, and then begin 50%-90% daily water changes. It may kill off some weaker fry but most strong ones survive and get huge if water changes are kept up with.
MrVampire181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 04:46 PM   #4 
1fish2fish
Member
 
1fish2fish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Why do you need the medications? I prefer to avoid medications at all cost. All I add to my spawning tanks is IAL (enough to make the water dark brown) and Prime.

I removed the father at day 3 or 4 I believe. I did my first water change on day 7 and for the following week I did tiny water changes, only enough to remove debris from the bottom. At day 14 I began doing 65-75% water changes daily and my fry are growing like crazy (that's partly because there are so few of them). With a 10 gallon you probably can wait a week before doing water changes.
1fish2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 05:05 PM   #5 
Oldfishlady
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
I agree, the only chemical additive you need is a good dechlorinator if on city water supply.....over treating and use of medications can often cause more harm that good...the best medication IMO/E is clean water and proper nutrition.

IAL or native oak leaf can be a great natural additive in both the spawning tank and fry tank

I start making 50% daily water changes on the fry tank once I start feeding live foods-usually on day 6-7-

I like to keep lots of common snails in my fry tank to help with left over food clean up as well as clean up of any dead/dying fry and for the infusoria production and first fry food for free range feeding.

With cool dry air environment I like to use a plastic veggie wrap over the top of the fry tank to help keep the air above the water warm/humid for the labyrinth organ development-
Oldfishlady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 05:57 PM   #6 
MrVampire181
Member
 
MrVampire181's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Just felt I'd add to above posts:

I don't like using meds either, but I have a ton just incase, several for parasites, several for bacterial, some for fungus, things like BettaFix (actually just watered down MelaFix) yada yada.

I'm using plastic tubs from now on, I just snap the lid on tightly and it gets really humid, really fast...VERY important for the young grys developing labyrinth. If I'm spawning in a tank I use plastic wrap over the tank.
MrVampire181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 06:05 PM   #7 
1fish2fish
Member
 
1fish2fish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
I forgot to add about the common snails. They're great! Just watch out because you'll notice them start to multiply like rabbits, make sure to take extras out and either kill them or transfer them to another tank.

For my current spawn I switched to plastic tubs. I keep the lid locked tight for most of the day and it keeps the water nice and humid. I've also used the plastic wrap in the past and both work really well.
1fish2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 06:19 PM   #8 
MrVampire181
Member
 
MrVampire181's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Agreed about the snails! My 5 weeks old common snails (I got them as eggs on a plant from a shipment) started breeding last night. Now I have that blob of jelly on my plants XD oh well, they help clean up the gunk so I love em!
MrVampire181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2010, 10:23 PM   #9 
SwimmyTheBetta
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Thanks for the posts! I was going to use MelaFix and PimaFix because I read it kept the eggs from getting fungus, but I don't want to mess up and kill any fry so I've decided not to use either of them.

I have 3 trapdoor snails that I keep in my 5, 10, and 20 gallon tanks. They're kind of large, but they do a great job. I was going to put them in there once the fry were free swimming, because I read they will eat fry before they become free swimming. The thing I like about them is they're live bearers and only breed twice a year, so they don't take over your tanks.

Thanks again for all the posts! :)
SwimmyTheBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2010, 10:20 AM   #10 
1fish2fish
Member
 
1fish2fish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
I've heard of snails eating fry before but its never happened to me. I think OFL once said she's never had a problem like that either. I think snails may eat eggs with fungus or rotten fry but not healthy live fry.

IMO if you properly condition your breeders and your father is a good dad who properly tends his eggs then very few of the eggs should get fungus.
1fish2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another post for helping with breeding: breeding with genes that don't breed true. MrVampire181 Breeding Betta Fish 3 08-24-2009 07:21 AM
petsmart vs. feeders supply kevinoh33 Betta Fish Care 2 01-04-2008 04:45 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.