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Old 10-31-2010, 08:19 AM   #1 
rejohnson53
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The fin rot that just wouldn't quit...

Ok, here we go.

Housing
What size is your tank? Was in a 3 gal when symptome appeared, currently in a 1 gal bowl for treatment.
What temperature is your tank? 80-82 degrees
Does your tank have a filter? The tank: Yes. The bowl: No.
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? No
Is your tank heated? No
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? None

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Was feeding frozen bloodworms. Now he's eating Hikari pellets.
How often do you feed your betta fish? Once a day, except on wednesdays, 2-3 pellets.

Maintenance

How often do you perform a water change? Change bowl water once every day or two.
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? 100%
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? Was using untreated spring water, have switched to treated tap.

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness:
Alkalinity:

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? Black edge to his tail. He's starting to look like a crowntail, tail disappearing.
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? None.
When did you start noticing the symptoms? 1 month ago.
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? Moved him to a smaller bowl. Salt baths every few days. Water changes.
Does your fish have any history of being ill? Has mild swim bladder disorder, but it doesn't affect him much.
How old is your fish (approximately)? Got him from Petco maybe 3 months ago. A year perhaps?

So I was keeping Two-Tails in a 3 gal M-NPT (Micro natural planted tank) when I noticed his tail was shrinking. Since I was then having a problem in the tank with cyanobacteria/blue-green algae, I decided to put him in a smaller bowl where I could more closely monitor him and change his water easier. I've also switched him to pellets instead of bloodworms to keep his water cleaner. It's been a month now. His tail is still shrinking, but only barely, but I can't get the black stuff at the edges of his tail to go away. I want to move him into a new tank I got (5 gal NPT) and out of that tiny bowl, but I don't want the fin rot to start advancing again.

I don't want to have to start medicating him (BettaRevive or Bettafix) because that has never gone well for me in the past. :(

Any suggestions? Any at all? I'll try anything.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:42 AM   #2 
Fawnleaf
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If I were you, I'd put Aquarium salt in the water. None of my bettas have ever had fin rot, but when Casanova's tail got bit, it grew back almost completely in less than two weeks. He's only got a small nick in his tail waiting to grow back now. :D But My brother's fish, Blue Fire has it and I know it can be tough to get away, especially since his is such a terrible case. But go with the Aquarium salt, it works wonders. Oh, and clean water and a heater. Keep the temp. around 80 for maximum healing.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:03 AM   #3 
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Actually, I have been adding small amounts of aquarium salt to his normal water, but not alot because I didn't want to overdo it with the salt baths AND salted tank water. Sorry, should have mentioned that before >.<
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:28 AM   #4 
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Can you post a pic...the black may be normal part of color or re-growth...black is not always bad.....

Are you sure he is not tail biting?

It is important to use correct dosage and duration with any salt used for treatment for the best effect.

I would start a daily 100% water change with 1tsp/gal aquarium salt for 10 days-If you have IAL or oak leaf I would add this too.
I like to pre-mix my salt in a 1gal jug (milk or OJ) and add my leaf to steep and use for my daily water changes-this help make water changes and correct dosage easier.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:42 AM   #5 
rejohnson53
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Will do OFL. I shall go prepare the salt now and go Oak-hunting afterwards. :D

I'm pretty sure he isn't tail-biting. It LOOKS like fin rot to me.

Should I stop with the salt baths for now? It would probably be easier on him I I wasn't taking him in and out of his bowl constantly, right?
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:48 AM   #6 
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Yes, I would stop the salt baths while doing the salt treatment-keeping him in the 1tsp/gal of salt 24/7

When you go oak leaf hunting-get the naturally dried and fallen from the tree that do not have any growth on them-give a rinse and use.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:26 PM   #7 
Fawnleaf
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I just did that in my tank, but does any one know why it helps?
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Old 10-31-2010, 03:36 PM   #8 
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The oak leaves? It helps mimic the natural blackwater environment that bettas originate from--I think I've read that it releases acids that have anti-microbial qualities. I prefer to use indian almond leaves from amy lim's e-bay shop, but in a pinch, oak leaves will do. Banana leaves are supposedly more effective with healing, while almond leaves are most effective for encouraging bubblenesting and breeding. The general idea between the use of all these different leaves is generally the same, though. Just make sure if you have live plants that you don't allow the water to get too brown or your live plants won't be able to get enough light to sustain them.
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Old 10-31-2010, 03:59 PM   #9 
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The water is supposed to turn brown?
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:07 PM   #10 
Oldfishlady
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fawnleaf View Post
The water is supposed to turn brown?
Yes, the oak leaf or Indian almond leaf will tan the water a nice amber color-more leaves the darker it will be-use of activated carbon will remove some of the tannins...so if you want tan water the carbon needs to be remove.
It is also a good idea to remove and replace the leaves weekly and to steep leaves in the replacement water if you plan 100% water changes.

Chemical compound of oak and IAL are 99% the same-the one big difference is the price
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