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Old 11-11-2010, 07:38 PM   #21 
Iziezi
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Okay, so at the fish store, the owner told me just to add salt to the water to reduce the hardness. I'm also considering buying bottled water instead of using tap as a way to reduce hardness. The fish store owner said they have perfect Betta water at their store (perfect hardness, PH, etc), but it's $0.25/gallon, and he warned me that if I start using that water, and then try to switch back to any other water, my Betta will die. So I'm rolling that around in my head too.

I also got new food for Dobby: I got Hikari brand Blood Worms (which he is macking down on! ), Brine Shrimp, and Betta Bio-Gold Pellets. And I did get a wetsafe heating pad to put under his jar, and I've decided to keep my Tetra HT10 Submersible Heater just in case. It didn't keep the water warm enough, but it did keep it at 72*-74* even when it was like 52* in the house last night. So it's better than nothing in an emergency.

So I hope I'm doing everything right now. Dobby had a 100% change on Mon, and 50% today, hopefully his fins will start looking better soon.
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:53 PM   #22 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iziezi View Post
Okay, so at the fish store, the owner told me just to add salt to the water to reduce the hardness. I'm also considering buying bottled water instead of using tap as a way to reduce hardness. The fish store owner said they have perfect Betta water at their store (perfect hardness, PH, etc), but it's $0.25/gallon, and he warned me that if I start using that water, and then try to switch back to any other water, my Betta will die. So I'm rolling that around in my head too.

I also got new food for Dobby: I got Hikari brand Blood Worms (which he is macking down on! ), Brine Shrimp, and Betta Bio-Gold Pellets. And I did get a wetsafe heating pad to put under his jar, and I've decided to keep my Tetra HT10 Submersible Heater just in case. It didn't keep the water warm enough, but it did keep it at 72*-74* even when it was like 52* in the house last night. So it's better than nothing in an emergency.

So I hope I'm doing everything right now. Dobby had a 100% change on Mon, and 50% today, hopefully his fins will start looking better soon.

Good job with Dobby ! I'm pretty sure that after all that he'll definatly be happier!
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:15 PM   #23 
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Sounds like a more suitable enviroment.

Just don't feed your fish bloodworms too often (only twice to three time a week) as they can cause diegestive problems and offer more protein than your betta should consume multiple times a week.

Don't get me wrong, bloodworms are essensial for a healthy betta diet, just don't go crazy with them. Nice job caring for your betta!
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:13 PM   #24 
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Talking

Yay! Thank you all, and thanks, SmallFry for the tip on the blood worms.

The heating pad is working really well, Dobby's water is 80* most of the time now. I also bought some distilled water at the store today to mix with the tap water, to dilute the minerals a bit and make the water softer. I'd rather do that than add more salt.

Last edited by Iziezi; 11-12-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:53 PM   #25 
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Won't be able to cycle a tank properly with 1 gallon of water. Your best bet for preventative maintenance is to do your water changes at the very least 2-3 times a week.
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:49 PM   #26 
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Adding salt to the tank has nothing to do with hardness and will not change or make the water softer in the aquarium.....and buying water that is special just for Bettas IMO...is a waste of money....its sounds like your fish shop employee is taking you for a ride...sorry, I don't mean to sound rude or mean about this........but your pet shop is miss-leading you with a lot of the information....remember....pet shop look to make money and usually don't know much or care if the fish dies or gets sick....all this means to them is that you will be back to buy more stuff......be very careful........

Since Betta are domesticated and farmed raised they have never seen their native pH and hardness, most will adapt to your source water pH and hardness of your source water without any issue-you want to provide a stable pH and hardness

In the 1gal unfiltered tank I would stay on top of water changes of 1-50% and 1-100% a week-provided that you are removing any uneaten food after feeding, however, more water changes the better

You must have live plants since you are adding plant food-what kind of plants and how many-the plant food is the most likely reason you are showing nitrite and nitrate readings in a unfiltered tank or it is in your source water

You want to avoid long term aquarium salt especially in low doses due to it causing resistant issues and when you need it for treatment it may not be effective-long term salt can also cause system shut down and kidney failure

You need to get your water temp up to at least 76F and keep it stable-the constant temp changes can be stressful and affect the immune response

I would not trust the test strips for your pH and hardness readings-to get an accurate reading on the pH and hardness-you need a test kit for pH/GH/KH-for the pH it needs to degas for 24h for an accurate reading-but I honestly don't think that is your Betta problem
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:06 PM   #27 
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Thank you for your advice, ScootShoot and FishLady.

I have started doing 2-50% and 1-100% water changes. Dobby has a wetsafe heating pad now under his tank, and it's keeping his water nice and warm at 78* - 80*. I've also changed his food from the flakes (which I am now convinced was contributing to the nitrite/nitrate problem) to Betta BioGold pellets (plus occasional bloodworms and brine shrimp as treats.)

I have a Java Fern and 5 stems of Wisteria in Dobby's jar. When I changed the water yesterday (100%) I didn't put the plant fertilizer in, because the pellet is supposed to last a month, and I washed it all away while rinsing off the stones, and cleaning the jar. I also thought if the water is that hard, maybe the plants are already getting all the minerals they need?

When I tested Dobby's water this morning, Nitrite was 0, and Nitrate was minimal.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:46 PM   #28 
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what i would do is get some medicine to treat fin rot on standby.
The earlier you catch the disease the better odds.
Actually i wouldn't get it just for fin rot there are many out there that can treat cotton mouth fin rot etc...

Just In Case!
It is always better to be prepared than have him get sick and possibly not make it..
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:08 PM   #29 
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Arrow Update After 1 Week

So Dobby's fins don't look like they're getting any better. In fact, they look a little bit more raggedy than they did. He's got little points forming on his bottom and tail fins now.

I bought a liquid ammonia testing kit today, the ammonia is about .5ppm and I just gave him a 50% water change on Wednesday. Now that I have the test kit, I will test every day to keep his water clean.

On the positive side, Nitrate & Nitrite are still practically zero. I've been testing those every day. Adding the distilled water to the tap water seems to be helping with the hardness, and reducing the PH and alkalinity a little bit too.

I also bought BettaFix (contains Melaleuca) to help his fins heal. The fish store owner said sometimes an infection can look like ammonia burns, but either way it won't hurt Dobby to use the BettaFix. My question is should I put him in QT while using this, or is it okay to add it to his usual environment?

Thanks again in advance for your advice.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:57 PM   #30 
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Okay, so I've put Dobby in QT in the small 1/2 gallon jar. I put a pinch of salt in the water, and 9 drops of BettaFix. I will give him 100% fresh water every day for 10 days. I hope his fins start to get better soon.

I hope he doesn't get bored/stressed/unhappy without his plants and pagoda.
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