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Old 11-19-2010, 02:46 PM   #11 
Jeff72
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Originally Posted by Adastra View Post
Bacteria is often mistaken for fungus because it's fuzzy, and looks similar to mold you might see on an old strawberry. It moves very quickly, and the fish can be incapacitated in hours, and die in only a couple days, typically.
That's exactly what it looked like. What medication should I have used instead? She still seems to be eating because I tried to feed her a pellet and she readily took it. Although, she continues to have the "dropsied" look as I described above though.
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:02 PM   #12 
Adastra
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A broad spectrum antibiotic would probably be best if you think that it is actually bacteria, beyond a reasonable doubt. Most bacteria that infect fish are gram negative, so it's best to start with an antibiotic that is meant to treat gram negative infections, or one that covers both gram negative, and gram positive infections.

Before purchasing or using any kind of over the counter antibiotic, I highly recommend reading this article: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa084 since it will give you a better understanding of how antibiotics work, the risks involved, and how to use them in a responsible manner. It's easy to misuse them, so a bit of prior research can be very helpful.

As for your poor female, at this point it would be best to do whatever you can to make her comfortable. A bit of epsom salt may help reduce some of the fluid building up under her scales, however, it's unlikely that she will recover from this point.

Last edited by Adastra; 11-19-2010 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:58 PM   #13 
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As for your poor female, at this point it would be best to do whatever you can to make her comfortable. A bit of epsom salt may help reduce some of the fluid building up under her scales, however, it's unlikely that she will recover from this point.
I continue to switch her containers everyday, thereby doing a 100% water change and I am using a gallon jug of spring water that I dissolved the Epsom Salt it. She doesn't appear to be doing either better or worse, quite honestly. She seems to be in a holding pattern. Her color hasn't returned and she is still slightly bloated and pine-coning but her appetite still seems to be okay considering the circumstances. So, I wish there was something more I could do for her. It seems like she declined so quickly to the state she is in now.

I have gotten to the point where I am really hesitant to purchase fish from a big chain store (in this case Petco) and I think my situation here is a perfect example of why. These places take horrible care of their fish and often times when you buy a fish from them you are bringing home an animal that is already loaded with parasites and will end up costing a whole lot more than you paid for it to get it healthy, if it even survives.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:17 PM   #14 
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Very true. I try not to support pet stores whenever possible, by adopting bettas from other fish owners through craiglist, the local aquarium society, freecycle, etc. I'm pretty surprised that she's still eating and whatnot, it is definitely a good sign and she is showing you her will to live--so I would not euthanize her unless she stops eating and continues to deteriorate. If you think she is strong enough, you could try a broad spectrum antibiotic, but be aware that antibiotics take a lot out of such a small animal, and often the treatment can be enough to push a sick animal over the edge.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:21 PM   #15 
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If you think she is strong enough, you could try a broad spectrum antibiotic, but be aware that antibiotics take a lot out of such a small animal, and often the treatment can be enough to push a sick animal over the edge.
Can you recommend a specific antibiotic (perhaps with link?) that I could try, since you are familiar with my particular situation now?
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:24 PM   #16 
Adastra
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I would go with a gram-negative antibiotic like API's Triple Sulfa, Mardel's Maracyn-Two, or Seachem's Kanaplex. If you haven't already, I urge you to read through the article I posted previously about how antibiotics work, the risks, and how to use them responsibly. Said article also contains more information on what specific brands do.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:28 PM   #17 
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I bookmarked the article that you gave to me and I read the first part of it, but I will definitely finish it before I start any of these antibiotics that you recommended. It's also unlikely that I will be able to find any of those recommendations around here, even at fish stores, so I will most likely have to mailorder the one I decide to get.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:39 PM   #18 
Malvolti
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You should be able to find them at any fish store. I usually go to my local Petsmart, they keep them on the shelves near the water conditioners and pH balancers etc. I would try there first and see if you can save on the shipping cost/time.

The cost isn't usually bad either, the prices around here range from 5$-20$ depending on the number of doses and the type of medication.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:41 PM   #19 
Jeff72
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Of the three you recommended, I think I am liking the Seachem one the best. Despite what the article says, in YOUR opinion, what is more effective... an Oral Dose or a Bath Dose? If the former, how in the world would you do that with the small amount of food we give to Bettas in the first place? Not to mention how tiny the pellets are...
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:12 PM   #20 
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Update:

Today I purchased an antibiotic. I couldn't find the Seachem anywhere around here so instead I got Mardel's Maracyn Two.

For the treatment I moved the healthy female out of the tank and put her temporarily back in the container she came in. I then removed the divider, did a massive water change on the tank (10 gal) and medicated it per the instructions on the package (2 packets for the first treatment). I then put my sick female Betta in the medicated tank and I am letting her have the whole thing for the duration of the treatment.

As with the majority of these medications, the directions are somewhat vague and could be a lot more specific. So, I am wondering if someone can help me in that regard. This is supposed to be a 5 day treatment regimen and after the 2 packets on the first day, it says to add a packet for days 2-5. Now, does that mean that I add one packet on day 2, one more on day 3, one more on day 4, etc. OR does it mean to only add ONE packet for the remaining 2-5 days of treatment? I really wish these manufacturers would be more clear about this stuff, especially when dealing with a life/death situation with our fish.

It also says nothing about water changes in the midst of all of this or if they are necessary or not. I did take out the filter cartridge from the HOB filter on the tank but kept the filter running.

I also can't figure out what the active ingredient is in this medicine in order to look at the website that was suggested to me above.

Can anyone make any recommendations pertaining to the questions I have above?
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