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Old 12-08-2010, 02:46 PM   #11 
Creat
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Brine shrimp are also good. You can get blood worms cubed and inside a box and I have stored it in a shared freezer and no one seemed to mind.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:12 PM   #12 
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hmm...well I just did one...How about a combination of the two lol.

Change a little daily and every week or two a full change
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:21 PM   #13 
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Mk, if he just won't eat pellets than I'll move on and try some bloodworms.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:27 PM   #14 
Miharu
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There are also different brands of pellets, some bettas prefer one brand over another. What brand are you using? I find the most highly accepted brand is the Hikari betta bio-gold, I've also had success with Topfin color enhancing pellets.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:29 PM   #15 
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100% water changes are important because your fish is constantly excreting ammonia from his gills as he breathes. This ammonia is constantly building up in a small quantity of water since you have no bacteria to break it down into less harmful substances, and no plants to consume it. If you change 50% of the water today and 50% of the water tomorrow, technically, this adds up to 100, but that does not mean 100% of the water has been changed. Inevitably, some of the old fouled water is left over plus whatever the fish has added in the meantime. Over time, this method becomes less and less effective and the fish is never allowed to live in the pristinely clean conditions that are ideal. Just a lower degree of disgusting deathsoup.

Changing 100% of the water is not as distressing as being constantly exposed to even small amounts of ammonia. If you do it properly and take the time to acclimate your fish to the new water every time, the stress caused by it will be minimal, and the fish will greatly benefit from clean conditions.

Honestly, you are going to continue to have issues with that tiny tank and the sooner you come to terms with getting rid of it and purchasing something more practical for everyday use the better off you and your fish will be. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, you can use a rubbermaid or sterilite plastic storage bin until you can afford something that looks a little nicer. You may have one already or you can borrow one from a friend. These bins are only about $3 for a 2-4 gallon size bin, and are safe to heat, easy to clean, and very durable.

You can use the money you save on the container to purchase a proper adjustable heater, like this one: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...8&pcatid=11368
heaters are not optional in betta keeping, and the light you're using to keep him warm is likely adding to his stress level. Bettas come from an area of the world where the water is dyed a dark tea color by dead leaves falling into it, so they can be stressed out by bright lighting. They also need a day/night light cycle, so whenever you turn the light on and off you may be subjecting him to dangerous temperature fluctuations.

Frozen food is not a bad idea. I keep mine in a brown paper lunchbag, but even if I didn't, they just look like opaque ice cubes and nothing gross.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:50 PM   #16 
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I have lots of aquariums at home (I have 5 pet snakes) but space would be a problem. Dorm room are small and fitting his current cage is a bit of a work of ingenuity.

There were some heaters at walmart. I'm sure they are overpriced and not as good, but I have a gift card. Would they be acceptable. I can understand the light cycles, snakes have similar things (although they are much less fragile I must say). His current pellets are just some generic "Betta Pellets". I also have tried flakes.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:00 PM   #17 
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Well, unfortunately that is a consequence of having a dorm animal. You simply have to sacrifice some of your personal space in order to take care of your pet in a more practical manner. You'll be glad you made space for a larger tank, though, since the maintenance will be much easier on you--especially if you get one that's 3-5 gallons with a filter. Once the filter has been colonized by bacteria (a process that takes about 3 weeks to complete) your betta will do well with once weekly partial water changes. This is much more feasible for a busy college student.

What you want to look for in a heater is a thermostat--you don't want to get one of the low quality, cheap non-adjustable heater pads, mini-heaters, and preset heaters. Only heaters with an adjustable temperature dial have a thermostat that's capable of sustaining the right temperature. If you have reptiles, you know how important it is to have a thermostat on your heating equipment. :)

You might want to call Wal-mart ahead of time to make sure they have a 25 watt adjustable heater in stock. Often stores like this do not regularly stock small heaters like this, and if they do, only the cheap crappy ones. You may have to ask the store to special order it for you, or order online. Ordering online will save you a few bucks--especially if you order a few items at once. I've seen the same heater I linked to for $27 at a local fish store--which is robbery, even with shipping included.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:13 PM   #18 
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Well Ill be looking into heaters and cages. None of you seem particularly worried about him starving any time soon.

And I thought I was putting him in a decent sized cage :p

Most of the other "betta" cages were about 1/2 gallon or less.
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:42 PM   #19 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsnake2 View Post
A previous thread here.
+1 Gallon
+Little cold (about 70F) (been keeping it warmer last few days with his light)

?
-You can only get away with a 1 gallon by doing a water change every day in addition 70F is much more than "a little cold".

Poor betta
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:51 PM   #20 
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Try making the betta pellets into smaller bites or you can buy smaller ones. My bettas always spit it out if it is to big.

If you want a heater, I have found some adjustable Hydor Theo heaters at petsmart for around 13 bucks. You can also get a kritter keeper for 10-15 dollars that is around 3 gallons.
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