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Old 12-29-2010, 11:24 PM   #1 
JD3P
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Fin Rot, Still?

From what I can see Pringle's fins have gotten better on the bottom where they used to have holes. I'm pretty sure it was from getting stuck to the filter, which he's not done since I changed the tank around and is able to clearly see it. But the blue area on the top is still basically gone, it just looks kind of thick now, almost as if it was scar tissue. But I mean it doesn't look like it's currently rotting but it does have white stuff from it every so often. I tried melafix which worked somewhat but not great, and than aquarium salt. But it started killing my plants, and I read it's bad for apple snails (which I have). Plus I used it for about a week or more, which should be enough. I have him in a ten gallon filtered tank. Should I still do water changes daily? Maybe 50%? Or should I do more? or less? I'm not sure. I know I don't have pictures right now, but I'm hoping my description can give you some idea. Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:31 PM   #2 
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I am completely new to this site, so i don't really know much about posting and all that good stuff, just to let you know. anyways, i just got my two betta's on christmas eve. i got a 2.5 gallon tank with a tank divider in the middle. Anyways, I noticed that my male was acting kinda strange. He had raggedy looking fins and tiny tiny holes appearing. I got worried and went to the store and got fungus clear tablets that help with fin rot. I just used one of the tablets. while looking at my fish i noticed that my female had little tiny white dots. She doesn't have many but it still concerns me. I was wondering what this could be. Could it also be fin rot because I know it is contagious. Anyways, thanks so much.
Oh and also how in the heck to do post on this site???
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:50 PM   #3 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danipar09 View Post
I am completely new to this site, so i don't really know much about posting and all that good stuff, just to let you know. anyways, i just got my two betta's on christmas eve. i got a 2.5 gallon tank with a tank divider in the middle. Anyways, I noticed that my male was acting kinda strange. He had raggedy looking fins and tiny tiny holes appearing. I got worried and went to the store and got fungus clear tablets that help with fin rot. I just used one of the tablets. while looking at my fish i noticed that my female had little tiny white dots. She doesn't have many but it still concerns me. I was wondering what this could be. Could it also be fin rot because I know it is contagious. Anyways, thanks so much.
Oh and also how in the heck to do post on this site???
Well you figured out how to reply I can see lol. If you want to post your own thread you go to the section you want, such as Betta Fish Diseases, than you have to look for a little button that says NEWTHREAD above all the post listings, and take it from there, very simple.

From what I've read the white dots are probably Ick. Scroll down this page and you can see the section on it and yes it is contagious.
http://www.bettatalk.com/betta_diseases.htm

And thanks for the advice on the fungus clearing tabs, never considered that. I will look into it!

Also you're gonna get a lot of other people tell you, so I might as well warn you...you really shouldn't split a 2.5 gallon =/ I know you already have the tank and everything, so maybe you can get another small drum bowl or other tank that you can manage to clean every other day. If what your fish does have is ick, you DEFINITELY need to separate them. But still it would give them much more room to swim if you gave them separate tanks. Good luck.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:58 PM   #4 
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UPDATE TO MY POST:

I don't have a water testing kit...but I was wondering if getting some tabs to remove ammonia might help? Would it alter the water in too drastic a way (if say for instance the water doesn't have very high ammonia). All the kits I'm seeing are expensive for me right now. They all seem to offer different things to test for, so what am I supposed to do...buy each one? There has to be a simpler way to this.
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #5 
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thanks for the adivce. i know i probably need a bigger tank right now. when my husband got it the people at pet-co said that it would be fine for two bettas.
anyways, well when i used to have fish before my bettas, they were ciclids. they got ick and it isn't like what my one betta has. the kind that my betta has is kind of cottony looking. and on the tabs i got from wal-mart the box says that white, cottony patches on fish is fungus, so hopefully the tabs will work for that too.
my female betta is fine. i was reading about fin rot and the fungus and it said that both are contagious but if there is another fish in the same tank or aquarium with it, as long as it is healthy it can fight off both. my female is doing fine and my male is improving beyond what i thought would happen in only three days. he wasn't eating right for a while. and every piece he ate he would spit it back out. now he is eating normal and he actually started making a bubblenest at the back of the tank and in my papers i got with my fish it said that that is a sign of a healthy betta.

anyways, thanks so much for all the help. i really appreciate it.
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:16 PM   #6 
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oh and also those tabs from what i see work miracles. mine are just for fungus. from everything to fin rot to pop eyed, to stress marks to swim bladder disease. they have them for everything at your local wal-mart. fungus, parasites, all kinds of stuff. also i have this water conditioner for my betta's. it helps get chlorine and other harmful things out of the water for your bettas. it also helps with ammonia. i don't know if they have it at wal-mart or not but i got mine at pet-co. it's not that expensive. four to five dollars.
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:20 PM   #7 
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JD3P: Nothing removes ammonia better than a good, old fashioned water change. Ammonia tablets are the easy way out, and they do not fully address the problem. Pinholes are usually from the fish putting too much stress on the fin by flaring too much, excessive darting, and/or swimming against a current. There are plenty of other things that cause fin damage, and fin rot is actually one of the least common.

Fin rot is a secondary infection, it only occurs after the fin has been damaged by another factor, such as ammonia burns or some kind of rip or tear. You know if the fish is infected based on coloration--if the damaged area is outlined in black and looks crusty, it is infected. If the texture is normal, and the color is either normal, or clear-white, there is nothing wrong with your fish. He may just be biting the fins, snagging them on decor, flaring too much, or overexerting his delicate fin webbing in some other way.

As for testing and changing the water, I always recommend that fish keepers purchase a liquid based master test kit like this: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...54&pcatid=4454 Knowing what is going on in your aquarium chemically is part of your responsibility as a fish owner. If you cannot afford a test kit, you can take a sample of your water to a local fish/pet store and have it tested for free.

How often you need to change your water depends on a few factors, obviously water volume, the presence of live plants, a colonized or uncolonized filter, etc. If you give me some more information I can estimate how much and how often you should be changing. However, you should still have your water tested every so often the day before water change day to make sure that your routine is really effective.

Danipar, chances are you are using a completely unnecessary medication that will just make your fish worse. Antibiotics are a double-edged sword, and they are not something you just throw in willy-nilly. The information on the packaging is very misleading, that tablet is not a miracle worker. It only has the power to kill very limited, specific kinds of bacteria. Each of the conditions you listed could each easily be caused by many different strains and types of bacteria. You need to have some basic understanding of what is wrong before you try to fix it--in the future, you should not place so much trust in what you read on the package or hear from an idiotic pet store employee.

If one fish has ich, and the other is behaving oddly, then you should interpret it as a sign that you are doing something wrong. Parasites like ich are present in everyone's aquariums, even very healthy ones. Only in healthy aquariums, all the fish have very strong immune systems that keep them from being infected by bacteria and infested by parasites. In your case, something has happened that has placed so much stress upon your fish that their immune systems have failed, and they became sick.

You need to figure out what the source of the stress is. Often, this is too much ammonia in the water and generally poor care. You should start by separating the two fish, so that each has a container of 2 gallons or larger. Then make sure you change the water 100% every three days--never forget to add dechlorinator. You will need to get a 25 watt adjustable heater for each container, I recommend this one: http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...8&pcatid=11368eventually, each fish should be kept at a consistent 78 degrees. When you first get the heater, start off on a setting that is close to room temperature, then slowly turn the thermostat up a degree per hour until it is 78 degrees.

Last edited by Adastra; 01-02-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:14 PM   #8 
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I had figured a while back that my fish might have been exposed to high ammonia levels once in a while when he was in his 1.5 gallon. Because I started to notice the deterioration of his fin while he was in there. (I cleaned it once a week, I guess it wasn't enough for him.) Than I put him in a 10 gallon and the filter seemed to have destroyed his fins a little more. It was also not cycled so that didn't help I'm sure. (I didn't realize the damage it could do to a fish at the time.) So I started to use Melafix which helped slightly. Than a few weeks later I used salt for a few days and it looked like it was helping. Now his fins just look kind of white and it's natural blue coloring. I can't see any black, but the blue does look dark and like it's scar tissue or something. Maybe it's just new growth? They have started growing back, but it still looks bad. I'll post a picture below of a before and after so you can see what I mean. I just went to the store tonight and bought the API Freshwater Test Kit (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH). I also bought Prime and Maracyn. Last night I decided to put him in a quarantined 1 gallon since the 10 gallon isn't cycled. Plus the salt was killing my plants and my snail was being inactive. I decided the best thing was to cycle the tank and keep him in the 1 gallon until he was better or until the cycle is done. I plan on dosing him with 1/2 tbsp aquarium salt daily, 100% water changes, and Maracyn. Does this seem like the right thing to do? I really don't think I have any other options.

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Old 01-02-2011, 07:16 PM   #9 
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I had figured a while back that my fish might have been exposed to high ammonia levels once in a while when he was in his 1.5 gallon. Because I started to notice the deterioration of his fin while he was in there. (I cleaned it once a week, I guess it wasn't enough for him.) Than I put him in a 10 gallon and the filter seemed to have destroyed his fins a little more. It was also not cycled so that didn't help I'm sure. (I didn't realize the damage it could do to a fish at the time.) So I started to use Melafix which helped slightly. Than a few weeks later I used salt for a few days and it looked like it was helping. Now his fins just look kind of white and it's natural blue coloring. The blue does look dark and like it's scar tissue or something. Maybe it's just new growth? They have started growing back, but it still looks bad. I'll post a picture below of a before and after so you can see what I mean. I just went to the store tonight and bought the API Freshwater Test Kit (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH). I also bought Prime and Maracyn. Last night I decided to put him in a quarantined 1 gallon since the 10 gallon isn't cycled. Plus the salt was killing my plants and my snail was being inactive. I decided the best thing was to cycle the tank and keep him in the 1 gallon until he was better or until the cycle is done. Does this seem like the right thing to do? I really don't think I have any other options.

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Old 01-02-2011, 07:29 PM   #10 
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Originally Posted by danipar09 View Post
oh and also those tabs from what i see work miracles. mine are just for fungus. from everything to fin rot to pop eyed, to stress marks to swim bladder disease. they have them for everything at your local wal-mart. fungus, parasites, all kinds of stuff. also i have this water conditioner for my betta's. it helps get chlorine and other harmful things out of the water for your bettas. it also helps with ammonia. i don't know if they have it at wal-mart or not but i got mine at pet-co. it's not that expensive. four to five dollars.
I decided to just cycle my tank, and quarantine my fish (made a whole post to Adastra about it). Dechlorinator was the one thing I did use, lol, probably the only thing I was doing right. I decided to upgrade to Prime though rather than regular dechlorinator. From what I've read online it's supposed to help remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia and detoxify nitrite and nitrate. But than again....it's just a label...when I actually check my water levels I'll see if it's just a sales pitch or the real thing haha.
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