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Old 03-15-2011, 04:43 PM   #121 
skywillig
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Okay, I'll try to answer all of this to the best of my knowledge.


I'm changing the water of the main tank 50% twice a week. He has only been there for two weeks, if you checked the begging of the topic before that he was living on a 2 liter tank with weekly 100% changes.

I use tap water, which I treat with a conditioner. Yes, the tap water here is treated. The two conditioners I might use when changing the water is this http://www.labcon.com.br/peixesaquar...es/protect.htm or this http://www.labcon.com.br/peixesaquario/condicionadores/anticlor_agua_doce.htm

The fish has been on a quarantine pet bottle inside the main tank for about 4 hours now. He has two drops of anti fungicide and a drop of anti parasite medicine inside, no salt. I also did not restricted the light on the tank yet.


The tank temperature is on 30 Celsius. The heater has little work to do, apparently, only turns on for about 5 minutes every hour or so.

He is eating well since I started heating the tank (before the heater, with the warm floating water bottles) - 5 pellets a day, all at once.

His symptoms are he is very apathic and will barely swim around at all. Before he heating started he wouldn't eat. He doesn't seem to be rubbing but the place he decided to "live on" (didn't move) was a very tight spot near the plastic decorative plant. When he DOES move elsewhere his front body seems to "drop" on the water and his back fins would go up? Like he's facing the floor. He's float like that for a while until hitting the surface, when he corrected his position. I don't see anything weird besides the yellow head. He has been apathetic for a month or so now, but the lack of appetite lasted under a week and the yellow has been there for a little over that. I might add he's been a little more attentive to knocking on the glass now that I've been heating the aquarium...

And that this has been a really warm month and my hamsters are all suffering loss of fur doing to this, so it's weird the fish is so cold!

I have him for maybe 11 months now. I cant know for sure how old he is, I bought him at a cheap fish store. Two other Betta were bought the same store the same day, they both died already. One of them died a month after the purchase of body rot and the other one died last month of hidropsy.

I'll have to mention again I'm in Brazil, so many things available were you are will not be viable here. Still I'd love any insights, thank you for looking at my case.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:16 PM   #122 
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Today I covered the aquarium so it's dark there.
Fish ate okay, he even seemed "interested" in the food.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:19 AM   #123 
Oldfishlady
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Usually with external parasites they will also flash or rub themselves on objects on the tank.....you stay he is having buoyancy problems??? Do you have access to Epsom salt (Magnesium sulfate) usually you can get this at most pharmacy not pet shops......if you can get this I would do a 10day treatment in QT...start with 1tsp/gal and increase to 2tsp/gal on day 3 of the treatment along with 100% daily water changes......

You also may need to lower your water temp to the 76-77F range....30C is like 86F...right......
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:02 AM   #124 
skywillig
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I was told 28-30 by the store and members here "okayed" it...
The guy at the fish store said if I keep it at 30 the fish wont ever get sick because it kills the bacteria. Plus the natural water temperature is already around 28-30, 25 degrees (77 F) when it's cold... members said he's sick because of the cold? (I live in a tropical place that never has cold days).
If 25 is the desirable temperature it's hardly worth it buying a heater. Does the heater also cool down the water?

This Epsom salt thing is coordinated with the meds my fish is already in or should I stop the meds? Will stooping the meds hurt the fish?
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:33 PM   #125 
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I would complete the medications before starting the Epsom salt treatment...it may not even be needed if the medications you are using are effective.....hopefully they will be.....

When treating a fish by natural methods-I have found lowering the water temp to 76-77F to help prevent other problems that can happen when the fish is already compromised-although this is a tropical species and tend to thrive best in water temp of 76-80F...so do bad bacteria especially in water temps greater than 80F...some pathogen that are always in the water can multiply rapidly and attack compromised fish, however, since you are not treating by natural methods and using antibiotics- hopefully they will also take care of any secondary issues....

The members of this forum have good intentions and only want what is best for your Betta.......

No, the heater will not cool the temp

If the Betta is showing improvement I would continue the course....

Good luck and keep us posted....
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:07 PM   #126 
skywillig
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It's hard to "see" the improvement because the medicine tints the water very yellow, so the problem was already the fish turning yellow...
He's still eating, seems to move around (not much space on the QT but) when I go look at him.

I would love information on how to get rid of the pathogens already contained in the main tank, since no medicine was added to that.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:14 PM   #127 
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You can't....you naturally have pathogens both good and bad in the tank all the time....you don't want to create a sterile environment.....not healthy and hard to support life....you can control to a degree however, by maintaining quality water and nutrition to support a healthy immune response in the fish....its a balance of sorts.....

If the fish is overall acting and eating his normal self and the only symptom he has is the yellow color...it may be normal pigment changes......
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:23 PM   #128 
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He said that the problem was that his betta was very lethargic and resting on things rather then swimming.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:29 PM   #129 
skywillig
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He was very apathetic before as well, that's the main concerning reason since the beginning. It's good to know the color change might be natural. My friend said I should use meds for 3 days and then check if there is improvement then and repeat the treatment only if he wasn't better. Should I just jump into the magnesium salt immediately?

My tank is not cycled, even with 100% water changes weekly I have this pathogens in the water?

And what do I do about the heating? My heater has no problem keeping it at 30 C, it turn on every couple of hours only at night, meaning the water naturally keeps at that temperature... If I were to try to maintain it at 77 F I would need a cooler, I think the water only gets at 77 F at cold nights here (where I live is really hot) - pehaps that's the reason the fish store didn't recommend the heater for me?
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:33 PM   #130 
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The reason we suggested a heater was toMaintain water at a Consistent temperature. It is not good for the water to go up and down all the time. So IF your water is staying 78-80 during the day keep the heater off then at night when the temperature drops turn it back on.
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