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Old 03-25-2011, 05:50 PM   #1 
YoshesMom
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Setting up Sorority (sp)

ok so heres what I have so far I know i need a few more plants but any other suggestions? everything you see in the picture has a little hidey hole in it or behind it its ten gallons heater and filter two pieces of drift wood the little plastic wood look a like cave ..thing (shush) and my giant plant
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:53 PM   #2 
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oh hi ya actually adding the picture MIGHT just help
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #3 
BettaMama11
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hmmm aside from the plants... maybe another hiding spot? I just set mine up yesterday and the girls would have done more damage had they not had enough hiding spots! I myself am looking into getting another tall plant was also thinking of finding something that floats on the surface of the water so when they go up to take air they're more hidden...
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:16 PM   #4 
Crazykat
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Lots of plants, and make sure they're tall! You probably already knew that, but I thought I'd say it again just in case. Having plant cover in the top and middle of the tank is the only thing that kept my girls from chasing each other to death in the first week. Little cups or caves are also great. Some people don't like it, but a well cared for Hornwort is a really great plant for a sorority tank. It floats in the top and and middle and is nice and bushy. You just have to keep up with pinching off the older parts. Good luck!
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:43 PM   #5 
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tag... I'm it.


Small ornaments they can swim through also discourage following harassment.

I have a large ornamental oriental gate that both red and brownie like to hang around.

First I suggest a pre-filter sponge, they're sorta "cant go wrong" Fluval Edge ones will fit that filter's intake snugly, this will keep the girls from resting on the intake and possibly hurting themselves. They block material from getting into the fiberous filter cards and collect a great deal of solid non-decaying waste as well as keep leaves and girls from blocking the filter. In one case my experience has shown they're almost a must-have: Cambi a calico cambodian girl liked to sleep on my 150b's intake and one day I turned around to look in the tank and found her folded over around the intake strainer. She hadn't suffocated yet but her swim bladder was permanently collapsed and she spent the next seven months powering to the surface then gliding back down. Betta rely MOSTLY on their swim bladders for depth control. She was pretty, a spade tail and very strong. Miss her a great deal and if I ever find one like her such as Cammy or Clowntail I'll buy them even if I have to put them in their own tank. I couldn't breed her because of the damage, she'd have been very worth the try.

Java fern plants, http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=747+892+800&pcatid=800 located in the rear corners is great, they don't need much light and they're very easy to care for AND generate new plants from their leaf tips. Cheap too.

While betta don't "need" water aeration I suggest getting a air pump and stone then routing the stone down in the back of the filter, even a little hawkeye will be enough. This is to support the biological filtration's needs.

Your bottom rock is a little thick/deep for unplanted, simple to solve with http://diszhal.info/english/plants/e...ne_wendtii.php these like to spread large roots out and they're fairly resilient to simple gravel bottoms. Or you can get a couple water onion plants: http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fres...WaterOnion.php this I've discovered produces a network of roots about seven inches in diameter and can solve the large open space problems while adding fair to good plant benefits to a tank. I've had one for a year and it has yet to give me any secondary plants. Mine gets lots of nutrition and sits dead center in the tank, their leaves are fairly stiff and will reach the whole length of the tank if you let them but you can thumb-nail pinch them off without the plant killing the whole leaf, letting you "groom" them to desired size. Since they will grow from the bottom glass to the surface of the water they're considered superior plants for biology support.

Anubias plants are nice as well but can be fairly fiddly and the girls often like to nose under plants for sleep, pulling them up out of the rock as they do.

Another thread here had a child's toy polyhedral mesh ball as an ornament in a tank and I'm sure the girls will love it as well.

Keep in mind that the filter you have may not be enough bio-filtration, you can supplement bio-filtration using sponge filters from http://www.jehmco.com/html/hydro-sponge_filters.html these are carried by bigalsonline and several other stores, as additional bio support they're great and a good place to run aeration from as well.

If you put a pre-filter sponge on the filter's intake and run one of the hydro sponge as well you should have no problems biologically, once established such additions will likely be able to support the tank themselves. If you ever have long power outages the sponge filters can keep the tank alive using a squeeze bulb like comes with blood pressure test kits.

Keep in mind to place five girls in at one time and spend a large amount of time playing with them the first couple days. Sororities are best if you avoid duplicating colors (most girls will have a main, ray and sheen color, if all three match between an old one and a new one you're begging for brutality) and if you keep the tank well and it stays clean of infection it can be fun to put males in inside a 9-way breeder basket, a common thing in my house because it gets the girls going too. This is also a good tactic for healing a boy's growing fins.

IF you get a girl who likes to attack from below, take her out permanently.
IF you get a girl who likes to ram, take her out permanently.
If you get a girl who is over-aggressive, try letting her loose in a boy's tank for a minute or use training techniques such as a feeding time paddle (wooden spoon) to block her and protect younger girls.

I keep about eleven girls in my tank, names are a pain sometimes and on occasion all I can get as a replacement is blue ones.
If you have seven or fewer, which is advised in a 10, you will likely need to immediately purchase a new girl when one dies or the pecking order can be shaken up. When my alpha female dies I spend a whole day's free time asserting the new alpha female, I choose on personality, tenacity and experience in the tank but their aggressiveness isn't too important. Once they know YOU put them in charge everything will follow. You'll likely have to give them support (wooden spoon, net-time-outs at the surface) but the girls generally have a wonderful disposition towards each other once they become a school.

Crown tail girls are a hazard I hope you avoid, I'm thinking about setting up a crown-tail sorority but the kind of open feeding you can allow in a normal veil tail sorority will often result in crown tail girls becoming bloated and dying of distension and ruptures.

Feel free to pm any of the sorority keepers for advice on behavior control issues.

Last edited by Thunderloon; 03-25-2011 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:26 AM   #6 
blacksheep72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderloon View Post
Crown tail girls are a hazard I hope you avoid, I'm thinking about setting up a crown-tail sorority but the kind of open feeding you can allow in a normal veil tail sorority will often result in crown tail girls becoming bloated and dying of distension and ruptures.
Can you elaborate on this? Aside from the slightly different finnage, what would make the crown tail females different? I'd like to set up a sorority tank eventually and was planning on having different fin-types included. I never thought there would be issues like you mentioned above. Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:32 AM   #7 
BettaMama11
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This may sound like a silly question but how do you know which girl is the Alpha??
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:38 AM   #8 
Thunderloon
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The alpha is whichever girl you WANT in charge, but in your first five girls in the tank it is usually the one who enforces "my way or hide in a crevice" on the others.

Crowntails have an issue much like pica, they eat and eat and eat but do not feel their guts getting too full, they can - without prompting - eat until they explode. They go about it acting like they're hungry all the time. Most betta will eat and eat like pigs but the crowntails go about it with a righteous fury and will not only aggressively take all the food on the surface they can get to but then spend the rest of the day pecking the little bits out of the rocks. They'll try to eat anything. If you've ever had a boy crowntail who constantly begs for food you'll see the picture.

My tank has 7 veiltail and one high-bred halfmoon female, I can toss a scattering of micro-wafer and guppy pellet across the water and everybody will have some to eat. After a while I'll turn the light off at night and push an algae wafer in for the CAEater, a crowntail would immediately chase after the wafer and fight with the CAEater then consume the wafer until she couldn't swim whereas the veil tail girls ignore the wafer entirely when I slip it in.

Even my best behaved crowntail ended up dying from organ failure, I once tried making up for lost girls in the pecking order with crowntails because I couldn't get veiltail. Next time I'll get more female guppies instead.

They are very pretty but every one I've had in the sorority has gone the way of Mr Creosote in the end.

They DO however make great split-tankmates with single males in 5 gallon tanks... give 3.5 to the boy and 2 to the girl.

Last edited by Thunderloon; 03-26-2011 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:14 AM   #9 
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Since females have such smaller fins, how do you tell their types apart? Idk if I have VT females or CT females :(
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:45 AM   #10 
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Thanks for the explanation, Thunderloon. Very interesting and helpful. :)
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