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Old 04-11-2011, 11:51 AM   #1 
Ethan
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Hey, why not?

So I'm going to sell this document cheap for breeding bettas as a pdf but decided it would be nice to make it free for BettaFish members......so here you are one free copy of my pdf.


How to breed bettas easy!!!!!!!!!!



This is how you breed bettas:


What you will need

1 decent pair of bettas you can buys these at a petstore but quality wise you should by them on aquabid.

1 ten gallon tank

1 sponge filter here is a great DIY http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ongefilter.php

1 heater that gets the temp. up to 78 degrees

1 culture of microworms,banana worms and baby brine shrimp ect.

1 small culture of adult brine shrimp or daphnia

instructions: First off you need to condition your pair with live Brine shrimp &/or daphnia then you should fill your tank with unclhorinated tap water to a 5 in. mark on the 10 gallon tank. After this is finished assemble the heater and wait one day for the waters temp. to adjust. This is one after the water's tempature had adjusted is one you introduce the male and female betta inside of the tank. the female should be in a vase so that the male and female meet no physical damage before courting and finnaly spawning. In this process you will let the female out with the male if the male does not make a bubblenest by 3 days recondition and restart the process if this time you succeded then the male will start showing off to the female and start flaring with his gills. The female will usaully be shy and look stressed but this is part of the progress if the female starts zipping backa and forth and gets damaged badly then recondition. By this time the male will add on to his bubblenest and start to nudge on the female to try to anticipate her to spawn when the female finnaly follows they will start courting and spawning it usaully takes atleast a couple wrapes to ace it. The female will start spilling eggs and the male will put the eggs in his mouth and spit them back into this bubblenest they will repeat this for hours sometimes almost to the 24 hour mark. If the male eats the eggs that usaully means the male is incompadable for breeding purposes. If that does not happen the male will try to attack the female violently after they are done spawning. At this time you should take out the female immediantly there are two things that can happen to the female at this point if you leave her in she will eithier die or eat the eggs. So take her out then in a following 24-48 hours the fry eggs will hatch and look like tiny pins stiking out under the nest. The male will be busy spitting fry back into the nest. At this time it is a great opurtunity to get ready to feed the fry first swishle the microworms or brine shrimp in fresh unchlorinated tap water if your using microworms,bannana worms or walter worms make sure to get none of the reidue from the culture in the water this will decrease the waters' quality and speed up the process for a water change. After you have swishled the worms gently pour them in if you have a magnifying glass it is easier to see the fry eating make sure not to overfeed or this can result in a great sumn of fatalities. At the free swimming age it is best to start 2-4 feedings daily make sure to space these out.When the 2 week mark arrives it is best to start a 100% water change every 1-3 days the more water changes the faster they will grow. Now when they have grown a little each week start feeding crushed pellets and such. At about a month or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females. Males will have bigger and have grunntier heads while the females heads will mostly be arrowed. This is a great time to start your sorritys and start jaring males. Now using this disguinshing method may not be the best because sometimes you can easily make a msitake in guessing male from female from facial features. Also you can wait until the males start flaring at each other this is basically the last resort before they start nipping at each others tail. After jaring males and females. They are ready to breed at 3 months!!!!!!!!!!You, have sucessfully bred bettas congratulations!!!!!!!!!!


tips & tricks

If you add a top off a betta container into your 10 gallon tank for breeding the bubble nest the male
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:25 PM   #2 
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Your on the right track but you have a lot of mis-information posted. I'd like to clear some things up so people don't get confused.

First you'll need a heater that can reach temperatures of AT LEAST 80*F, preferably upwards of 82-84*F. Secondly you can't culture adult brine shrimp, you have to raise them from hatch which is hard to do unless you have a greenwater culture, same goes for daphnia.

You don't need to wait a full day for the temperature to adjust. You can easily get the water to come out of the tap near 80* (which is lukewarm) and then only wait about 30 mins for the temp to level out where you want it to be. If you age your water it may take a little longer for it to heat up.

Also, the female should not look stressed. She can look submissive but a stressed female will not breed. Stress is a sign she is not ready to spawn and either needs more conditioning or time to mature.

By " the male will try to anticipate her to spawn" I think you mean he will try to entice her to spawn.

There's many reasons why a male will eat the eggs. They could be fungused, infertile,or he could just be an egg eater. It takes multiple spawn attempts to be able to discern which one and no male should be counted out after just one spawn.

You don't need to start adding live foods until they're free swimming. The food will die if added while still in the nest and will lead to water quality issues. 1-3 days from free swimming is when you should begin to feed.

1 month is a little too early to begin sexing out bettas. I think by "At about a month or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females" you meant "visually be able to distinguish". However most fry are still unsexable at 4 weeks and don't begin to sex out until closer to 8 weeks of age, sometimes sooner depending on rate of growth. I've never heard of sexing a betta by headshape as most bettas have similar head structure. Body structure can often differ but in young fry it is hard to tell the difference. Flaring is usually the first indication that you have a male fry.

Lastly, not all fry are ready to be bred at 3 months old. Most new breeders will not have done a good enough job to have fully grown, breeding ready fry in just 3 months.
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:27 PM   #3 
turtle10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
So I'm going to sell this document cheap for breeding bettas as a pdf but decided it would be nice to make it free for BettaFish members......so here you are one free copy of my pdf.


How to breed bettas easy!!!!!!!!!!



This is how you breed bettas:


What you will need

1 decent pair of bettas you can buys these at a petstore but quality wise you should by them on aquabid.

1 ten gallon tank

1 sponge filter here is a great DIY http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ongefilter.php

1 heater that gets the temp. up to 78 degrees
When breeding you ideally want to go to the 80-84 range.

1 culture of microworms,banana worms and baby brine shrimp ect.

1 small culture of adult brine shrimp or daphnia
Adult brine shrimp are marine creature and difficult to raise, so you would need a marine set up to raise adult brine shrimp. But there are LFS that sell brine shrimp by the table spoon.

instructions: First off you need to condition your pair with live Brine shrimp &/or daphnia then you should fill your tank with unclhorinated tap water to a 5 in. mark on the 10 gallon tank.
First time breeders probably won't know what conditioning is, so you should at it here. (two weeks of live food + daily water changes).
After this is finished assemble the heater and wait one day for the waters temp. to adjust. This is one after the water's tempature had adjusted is one you introduce the male and female betta inside of the tank. the female should be in a vase so that the male and female meet no physical damage before courting and finnaly spawning. In this process you will let the female out with the male if the male does not make a bubblenest by 3 days recondition and restart the process if this time you succeded then the male will start showing off to the female and start flaring with his gills. Make sure you don't let her out until she is flirty and eggy, no horizontal stipes present. The female will usaully be shy and look stressed but this is part of the progress if the female starts zipping backa and forth and gets damaged badly then recondition. By this time the male will add on to his bubblenest and start to nudge on the female to try to anticipate her to spawn when the female finnaly follows they will start courting and spawning it usaully takes atleast a couple wrapes to ace it. There is also a lot of chasing by the male and hiding on the female's part. The male doesn't really "nudge" her until they are spawning. Up until then he is usually pretty aggressive with the chasing. The female will start spilling eggs and the male will put the eggs in his mouth and spit them back into this bubblenest they will repeat this for hours sometimes almost to the 24 hour mark. If the male eats the eggs that usaully means the male is incompadable for breeding purposes. Or that the eggs were infertile or fungus-ing. If that does not happen the male will try to attack the female violently after they are done spawning. At this time you should take out the female immediantly there are two things that can happen to the female at this point if you leave her in she will eithier die or eat the eggs. So take her out then in a following 24-48 hours the fry eggs will hatch and look like tiny pins stiking out under the nest. The male will be busy spitting fry back into the nest. At this time it is a great opurtunity to get ready to feed the fry actually you don't feed the fry until they are free swimming. For the first three- five days of their lives they feed on their egg/yolk sac and infusoria. any food you give them while they are still hanging from the nest will go bad. and first swishle the microworms or brine shrimp in fresh unchlorinated tap water if your using microworms,bannana worms or walter worms make sure to get none of the reidue from the culture in the water this will decrease the waters' quality and speed up the process for a water change. After you have swishled the worms gently pour them in if you have a magnifying glass it is easier to see the fry eating make sure not to overfeed or this can result in a great sumn of fatalities. At the free swimming age it is best to start 2-4 feedings daily make sure to space these out.When the 2 week mark arrives it is best to start a 100% water change every 1-3 days the more water changes the faster they will grow. Now when they have grown a little each week start feeding crushed pellets and such. At about a month or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females. Males will have bigger and have grunntier heads while the females heads will mostly be arrowed. This is a great time to start your sorritys and start jaring males. Now using this disguinshing method may not be the best because sometimes you can easily make a msitake in guessing male from female from facial features. Also you can wait until the males start flaring at each other this is basically the last resort before they start nipping at each others tail. After jaring males and females. They are ready to breed at 3 months!!!!!!!!!!You, have sucessfully bred bettas congratulations!!!!!!!!!!
You really shouldn't breed bettas that young, they most likely won't even be fully grown then. Bettas should be bred at about 4-6 months.

tips & tricks

If you add a top off a betta container into your 10 gallon tank for breeding the bubble nest the male
Just some input :)
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:29 PM   #4 
indjo
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1f2f and turtle has everything covered. I would only like to add;

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
In this process you will let the female out with the male if the male does not make a bubblenest by 3 days recondition and restart the process if this time you succeded then the male will start showing off to the female and start flaring with his gills. The female will usaully be shy and look stressed but this is part of the progress if the female starts zipping backa and forth and gets damaged badly then recondition. By this time .... (I don't understand this part) ......the male will add on to his bubblenest and start to nudge on the female to try to anticipate her to spawn when the female finnaly follows they will start courting and spawning it usaully takes atleast a couple wrapes to ace it.
Not all males make bubble nests. The sign of willingness is NOT the nest, it's flirt swimming. The male will swim all over the place, showing off to the female (not flare head on to attack). If a female is willing to spawn, she will show her colors and show "breeding bars". SHE WILL FOLLOW THE MALE in a flirt swim fashion, like the male. If one of them doesn't show these signs, it's best to pull them out and recondition.

Here's a couple of pictures showing spawning without bubble nests.
Attachment 26717

Attachment 26718

With more experience you can leave an unwilling female with the male. After a while the female should figure out the male's intention and follow. NOT ADVISED FOR BEGINNERS - because you need to know when to pull out a stubborn female.


Quote:
At about a month or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females. Males will have bigger and have grunntier heads while the females heads will mostly be arrowed. This is a great time to start your sorritys and start jaring males. Now using this disguinshing method may not be the best because sometimes you can easily make a msitake in guessing male from female from facial features. Also you can wait until the males start flaring at each other this is basically the last resort before they start nipping at each others tail. After jaring males and females. They are ready to breed at 3 months!!!!!!!!!!You, have sucessfully bred bettas congratulations!!!!!!!!!!
It's practically impossible to sex 1 month fry. And only very experienced breeders who has years of experience studying the head can differentiate sex by looking at the head's shape.

Flaring is also not a good determinant because females also flare. And young fry will flare at each other regardless of sex.


The best way to sex is general form (body and fins), white dot below a female's belly, and THE WAY they flare (male's gill covers opens wider than female's).

It was a good effort - now you know what you've misunderstood.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:47 PM   #5 
Ethan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indjo View Post
1f2f and turtle has everything covered. I would only like to add;



Not all males make bubble nests. The sign of willingness is NOT the nest, it's flirt swimming. The male will swim all over the place, showing off to the female (not flare head on to attack). If a female is willing to spawn, she will show her colors and show "breeding bars". SHE WILL FOLLOW THE MALE in a flirt swim fashion, like the male. If one of them doesn't show these signs, it's best to pull them out and recondition.

Here's a couple of pictures showing spawning without bubble nests.
Attachment 26717

Attachment 26718

With more experience you can leave an unwilling female with the male. After a while the female should figure out the male's intention and follow. NOT ADVISED FOR BEGINNERS - because you need to know when to pull out a stubborn female.


It's practically impossible to sex 1 month fry. And only very experienced breeders who has years of experience studying the head can differentiate sex by looking at the head's shape.

Flaring is also not a good determinant because females also flare. And young fry will flare at each other regardless of sex.


The best way to sex is general form (body and fins), white dot below a female's belly, and THE WAY they flare (male's gill covers opens wider than female's).

It was a good effort - now you know what you've misunderstood.

Ok, so basically change the water temp. and add a quote saying disguinishing my facial features does not always work and to buump up 3 months to 4 months for breeding purposes. Thank you for all your help if anyone has anything else to add in plz do
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:50 PM   #6 
turtle10
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Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
Ok, so basically change the water temp. and add a quote saying disguinishing my facial features does not always work and to buump up 3 months to 4 months for breeding purposes. Thank you for all your help if anyone has anything else to add in plz do
Plus everything 1f2f and I said, like about conditioning and the feeding time.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:06 PM   #7 
Ethan
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Originally Posted by turtle10 View Post
Plus everything 1f2f and I said, like about conditioning and the feeding time.


How to breed bettas easy!!!!!!!!!!



This is how you breed bettas:


What you will need

1 decent pair of bettas you can buys these at a petstore but quality wise you should by them on aquabid.

1 ten gallon tank

1 sponge filter here is a great DIY http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ongefilter.php

1 heater that gets the temp. up to 78-84 degrees

1 culture of microworms,banana worms and baby brine shrimp ect.

a lot of live daphnia & Brine shrimp

instructions: First off you need to condition your pair with live Brine shrimp &/or daphnia then you should fill your tank with unclhorinated tap water to a 5 in. mark on the 10 gallon tank. After this is finished assemble the heater and wait 30 minutes for the waters temp. to adjust. This is one after the water's tempature had adjusted is one you introduce the male and female betta inside of the tank. the female should be in a vase so that the male and female meet no physical damage before courting and finnaly spawning. In this process you will let the female out with the male if the male does not make a bubblenest by 3 days recondition and restart the process if this time you succeded then the male will start showing off to the female and start flaring with his gills. The female will usaully be shy and look stressed but this is part of the progress if the female starts zipping back and forth and gets damaged badly by bashing on the glass (then you will most likely have to recondition). Stress from the female will most likely show that the female is not ready to breed or sometimes incompatible with the male chosen. By this time the male will add on to his bubblenest and start to nudge on the female to try to anticipate her to spawn when the female finnaly follows they will start courting and spawning it usaully takes atleast a couple wrapes to ace it. The female will start spilling eggs and the male will put the eggs in his mouth and spit them back into this bubblenest they will repeat this for hours sometimes almost to the 24 hour mark. If the male eats the eggs that usaully means the male is incompadable for breeding purposes. If that does not happen the male will try to attack the female violently after they are done spawning. At this time you should take out the female immediantly there are two things that can happen to the female at this point if you leave her in she will eithier die or eat the eggs. So take her out then in a following 24-48 hours the fry eggs will hatch and look like tiny pins stiking out under the nest. The male will be busy spitting fry back into the nest. At this time it is a great opurtunity to get ready to feed the fry first swishle the microworms or brine shrimp in fresh unchlorinated tap water if your using microworms,bannana worms or walter worms make sure to get none of the reidue from the culture in the water this will decrease the waters' quality and speed up the process for a water change. After you have swishled the worms gently pour them in at the freeswimming stage if you have a magnifying glass it is easier to see the fry eating make sure not to overfeed or this can result in a great sumn of fatalities. When the free swimming age is met it is best to start 2-4 feedings daily make sure to space these out.When the 2 week mark arrives it is best to start a 100% water change every 1-3 days the more water changes the faster they will grow. Now when they have grown a little each week start feeding crushed pellets and such. At about two months or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females. Males will have bigger and have grunntier heads while the females heads will mostly be arrowed. This is a great time to start your sorritys and start jaring males. Now using this disguinshing method may not be the best because sometimes you can easily make a msitake in guessing male from female from facial features. Also you can wait until the unsexed babies start getting eggs sacks this also can lead to misunderstanding because some males also have these. The best method is to wait until males start getting finicky with each other. These methods really don't matter if your jaring both males and females but if you start sorritys this may lead to some fatalities because of acidental sexing problems and missplacing males and females.

tips & tricks

If you add a top off a betta container into your 10 gallon tank for breeding the bubble nest the male make will be stronger under a foundation.

If the water is a bit higher they are more likely to spawn and put them in the breeding mood

Adding I.A.L. to the water not only strengthens the fins but also helps stronger coloration and heathiness. And to add makes them more readily spawn.

Not all males make bubble nests. The sign of willingness is NOT the nest, it's flirt swimming. The male will swim all over the place, showing off to the female (not flare head on to attack). If a female is willing to spawn, she will show her colors and show "breeding bars". SHE WILL FOLLOW THE MALE in a flirt swim fashion, like the male. If one of them doesn't show these signs, it's best to pull them out and recondition. With more experience you can leave an unwilling female with the male. After a while the female should figure out the male's intention and follow. NOT ADVISED FOR BEGINNERS - because you need to know when to pull out a stubborn female.

only very experienced breeders who has years of experience studying the head can differentiate sex by looking at the head's shape.

Flaring is also not a good determinant because females also flare. And young fry will flare at each other regardless of sex.

The best way to sex is general form (body and fins), white dot below a female's belly, and THE WAY they flare (male's gill)
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:07 PM   #8 
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I don't see the changes about the conditioning and feeding, or about their spawning behavior….
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:11 PM   #9 
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Hey, your enthusiasm is great and your motivation to help others is fantastic. But, I also feel that there is already plenty of really good information out there from really experienced people. If you don't have the experience and your facts are a little off, maybe just leave it to the pros. ;) I say this in the nicest way possible, lol. :)
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:11 PM   #10 
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I'll add that I'm working on it
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