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Old 04-11-2011, 02:13 PM   #11 
Ethan
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Originally Posted by denaliwind View Post
Hey, your enthusiasm is great and your motivation to help others is fantastic. But, I also feel that there is already plenty of really good information out there from really experienced people. If you don't have the experience and your facts are a little off, maybe just leave it to the pros. ;) I say this in the nicest way possible, lol. :)

It wasn't going to be expensive and to add I have bred bettas with the first edition I'm just fixing it up so I don't mislead readers that they can get any lazier and then try an easier way
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:17 PM   #12 
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Originally Posted by denaliwind View Post
Hey, your enthusiasm is great and your motivation to help others is fantastic. But, I also feel that there is already plenty of really good information out there from really experienced people. If you don't have the experience and your facts are a little off, maybe just leave it to the pros. ;) I say this in the nicest way possible, lol. :)
I am going to have to agree with Denali. I would leave it to the breeders to tell people how to breed, since they know everything and have experience. It is tough to give advice on something when you have never experienced it your self.

I just notice you said you bred bettas before…. not to be rude or offensive in any way at all, but if you bred bettas before wouldn't you know most of this? Like about conditioning time, feeding, and sexing?
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:22 PM   #13 
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I acidentally did not include conditioning & feedong I was mearly typing and making my own corrections and wanted some good info from all of you

I have bred bettas just the fry didn't live past 2 weeks

I also have to conclude that this is not the info I've sed myself it is the best and most eficent info I have heard of myself. Every one has there own way of breeding bettas but from my 2 year research I have decided to take the best of best advice and mix it all together to try to make it easier for the beginner and also take suggestios from others here and add them here is a revised version. Plz tall me if I missed anything I'd be happy to rewrite some of it.

How to breed bettas easy!!!!!!!!!!



This is how you breed bettas:


What you will need

1 decent pair of bettas you can buys these at a petstore but quality wise you should by them on aquabid.

1 ten gallon tank

1 sponge filter here is a great DIY http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ongefilter.php

1 heater that gets the temp. up to 78-84 degrees

1 culture of microworms,banana worms and baby brine shrimp ect.

a lot of live daphnia & Brine shrimp

instructions: First off you need to condition your pair with live Brine shrimp &/or daphnia then you should fill your tank with unclhorinated tap water to a 5 in. mark on the 10 gallon tank. After this is finished assemble the heater and wait 30 minutes for the waters temp. to adjust. This is one after the water's tempature had adjusted is one you introduce the male and female betta inside of the tank. the female should be in a vase so that the male and female meet no physical damage before courting and finnaly spawning. In this process you will let the female out with the male if the male does not make a bubblenest by 3 days recondition and restart the process if this time you succeded then the male will start showing off to the female and start flaring with his gills. The female will usaully be shy and look stressed but this is part of the progress if the female starts zipping back and forth and gets damaged badly by bashing on the glass (then you will most likely have to recondition). Stress from the female will most likely show that the female is not ready to breed or sometimes incompatible with the male chosen. By this time the male will add on to his bubblenest and start to nudge on the female to try to entice her to spawn when the female finnaly follows they will start courting and spawning it usaully takes atleast a couple wrapes to ace it. The female will start spilling eggs and the male will put the eggs in his mouth and spit them back into this bubblenest they will repeat this for hours sometimes almost to the 24 hour mark. If the male eats the eggs that usaully means the male is incompadable for breeding purposes. If that does not happen the male will try to attack the female violently after they are done spawning. At this time you should take out the female immediantly there are two things that can happen to the female at this point if you leave her in she will eithier die or eat the eggs. So take her out then in a following 24-48 hours the fry eggs will hatch and look like tiny pins stiking out under the nest. The male will be busy spitting fry back into the nest. At this time it is a great opurtunity to get ready to feed the fry first swishle the microworms or brine shrimp in fresh unchlorinated tap water if your using microworms,bannana worms or walter worms make sure to get none of the reidue from the culture in the water this will decrease the waters' quality and speed up the process for a water change. After you have swishled the worms gently pour them in at the freeswimming stage if you have a magnifying glass it is easier to see the fry eating make sure not to overfeed or this can result in a great sumn of fatalities. When the free swimming age is met it is best to start 2-4 feedings daily make sure to space these out.When the 2 week mark arrives it is best to start a 100% water change every 1-3 days the more water changes the faster they will grow. Now when they have grown a little each week start feeding crushed pellets and such. At about two months or sooner you will be able to facialy be able to disguinish males and females. Males will have bigger and have grunntier heads while the females heads will mostly be arrowed. This is a great time to start your sorritys and start jaring males. Now using this disguinshing method may not be the best because sometimes you can easily make a msitake in guessing male from female from facial features. Also you can wait until the unsexed babies start getting eggs sacks this also can lead to misunderstanding because some males also have these. The best method is to wait until males start getting finicky with each other. These methods really don't matter if your jaring both males and females but if you start sorritys this may lead to some fatalities because of acidental sexing problems and missplacing males and females.

tips & tricks

If you add a top off a betta container into your 10 gallon tank for breeding the bubble nest the male make will be stronger under a foundation.

If the water is a bit higher they are more likely to spawn and put them in the breeding mood

Adding I.A.L. to the water not only strengthens the fins but also helps stronger coloration and heathiness. And to add makes them more readily spawn.

Not all males make bubble nests. The sign of willingness is NOT the nest, it's flirt swimming. The male will swim all over the place, showing off to the female (not flare head on to attack). If a female is willing to spawn, she will show her colors and show "breeding bars". SHE WILL FOLLOW THE MALE in a flirt swim fashion, like the male. If one of them doesn't show these signs, it's best to pull them out and recondition. With more experience you can leave an unwilling female with the male. After a while the female should figure out the male's intention and follow. NOT ADVISED FOR BEGINNERS - because you need to know when to pull out a stubborn female.

only very experienced breeders who has years of experience studying the head can differentiate sex by looking at the head's shape.

Flaring is also not a good determinant because females also flare. And young fry will flare at each other regardless of sex.

The best way to sex is general form (body and fins), white dot below a female's belly, and THE WAY they flare (male's gill)

There's many reasons why a male will eat the eggs. They could be fungused, infertile,or he could just be an egg eater. It takes multiple spawn attempts to be able to discern which one and no male should be counted out after just one spawn.

Before breeding you also need to condition them for 1-3 weeks the females usaully take longer. During this time the diet of the betta is very important you need to feed them daphnia or brineshrimp daily for as long as the conditioning process it itself. Adding a variety to the diet also helps.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:27 PM   #14 
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"The male will be busy spitting fry back into the nest. At this time it is a great opurtunity to get ready to feed the fry first swishle the microworms or brine shrimp in fresh unchlorinated tap water if your using microworms,bannana worms or walter worms make sure to get none of the reidue from the culture in the water this will decrease the waters' quality and speed up the process for a water change. Also you need to change the feeding times."

You do not feed them while they are in the nest, you feed them when they are free swimming and the male is out.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:31 PM   #15 
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I know it is just to be prepared for the next 1-2 days before free swimming
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:34 PM   #16 
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But I will adjust that for better understanding later
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:36 PM   #17 
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Then what do you do with the harvested food for the next 2-3 days? If it isn't kept in the culture it will die. You can't harvest worms, set them aside, and feed them three days later. They will die. The only thing you need to prepare is the baby brine shrimp, which takes 24-48 hours to hatch. You harvest worms right before you feed them.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:37 PM   #18 
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Exactly the only exception is vineger ells I know that I just didn't mention that yet.......I was going to when I fixed it
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:41 PM   #19 
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Exactly the only exception is vineger ells I know that I just didn't mention that yet.......I was going to when I fixed it
Vinegar Eels don't need to be harvested a head of time either.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:42 PM   #20 
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Only if that is wanted
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